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Well.... I guess I am keeping the car a bit longer


JuicedH22
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So, I went to Edgewater before they closed for the year a few weeks ago. The DA was great, and the car ran amazing... I only made 3 passes since I had a corporate dinner to go to... but set a personal best ET and 60'.

 

However, I noticed a very quiet ticking noise when i got home and thought "hmm better check that out later".... the next day I get in the car, start it up, and now that ticking noise is very loud... FML....

 

I did a typical inspection for the most part (pushrods, valve springs, stethoscope (narrowed it to #7)... but I was taking the heads off the car anyway to send them out for some valve work. I was hoping to find a bad lifter, but kind of knew better...

 

anyway, here is the damage...

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c318/Juicedh22/F778E219-3A92-4195-8054-3AC8E06F5337-3429-000004995BBF9CC0.jpg

 

 

I was first inclined to go all out and prepare for a 416 stroker... but I am going to be budget-conscience since I still think I will want a different car at some point and dont want to sink any more $$ than I have to. And think the extra money would be better spent on doing some diff upgrades. So I think all I am going to do is forged pistons and rods (wiseco x-series, -3.2cc; K1 rods). Im going to lose a bit of CR (going from 11.68 to 11.33) so that might cost me a few HP and some TQ (but will feel more comfortable upping the n2o to a larger shot) and I hope to offset the lose with some gains from the head work I am doing.

 

So my winter plans now include:

hinson poly motor mounts

1 7/8 headers

external oil cooler

3.90 diff w/ hardened output shafts and upgraded c6z trans output

and I can now add to that list, forged pistons and rods (lol)

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What did it run? Did you do that on motor?

 

did not do that on motor... it was on n2o (150 shot) and the only time I sprayed that day! Of all the times I wish I was datalogging, I especially wish I had on that pass... The dyno tune had seemed spot on, if a little conservative. Previous datalogging had shown no drops in fuel pressure on spray, and my wideband AFR tuning was done on the drivers side bank (same bank where pison damage is)... But perhaps the DA was high enough that it leaned out enough that hte increased temp/pressure closed hte ring gap enough for it to pop. I did NOT regap the piston rings when I built the motor, which I guess I probably should have, considering i was making 620hp and 700ft lbs of TQ on spray...

 

As far as what it ran... I cut a 1.54 60' My ET was :gabe:

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Ouch, never a fun find. How bad was the Head beat up?

 

not at all actually... it must have shot out the exhaust port pretty fast.... There is no visual indications at all of any contact. Luckily I am doing exhaust valve work anyway, so that alleviates any concern I might have about valve seats anyway.

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I'm still debating on selling my trans /diff for the zr1 trans diff.. It's an z51 rpm lvl 5 ( with 30 spline hardened main shaft) and the diff is a b.e.r stage 2 3.90 geared machined for 30 spline. Maybe 500miles total on the drive train.. A great set up for dig/drag racing but that's not my cup of tea..
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To rich on a nitrous tune up can do that as welll....

 

Really? How rich? (I was tuned for high 11s low 12s on spray). Whats the cause behind too much fuel causing a ring land to crack? i would think with too much fuel cylinder temps would be down? Presuming the cause is the cylinder getting too hot and ring gap closing and putting pressure on the land....

 

I'm still debating on selling my trans /diff for the zr1 trans diff.. It's an z51 rpm lvl 5 ( with 30 spline hardened main shaft) and the diff is a b.e.r stage 2 3.90 geared machined for 30 spline. Maybe 500miles total on the drive train.. A great set up for dig/drag racing but that's not my cup of tea..

If serious, you can let me know what you are thinking on cost.

 

Why do you think a 3.90 would be bad for road racing? The serious, and most successful, corvette road racers I know are choosing a ZR-1 trans ratio, and a 3.90...

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did not do that on motor... it was on n2o (150 shot) and the only time I sprayed that day! Of all the times I wish I was datalogging, I especially wish I had on that pass... The dyno tune had seemed spot on, if a little conservative. Previous datalogging had shown no drops in fuel pressure on spray, and my wideband AFR tuning was done on the drivers side bank (same bank where pison damage is)... But perhaps the DA was high enough that it leaned out enough that hte increased temp/pressure closed hte ring gap enough for it to pop. I did NOT regap the piston rings when I built the motor, which I guess I probably should have, considering i was making 620hp and 700ft lbs of TQ on spray...

 

As far as what it ran... I cut a 1.54 60' My ET was :gabe:

 

So you ran an 11.0x :gabe:

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So im assuming the cylinder walls and the block its self had no damage done? Im not sure if i would just want to throw new rods/pistons in there without making sure the cylinder walls are fine. Also who knows, if you put a nasty built nitrous huffing 1k+ hp motor in there, you might want to keep the car a little longer.
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So im assuming the cylinder walls and the block its self had no damage done? Im not sure if i would just want to throw new rods/pistons in there without making sure the cylinder walls are fine. Also who knows, if you put a nasty built nitrous huffing 1k+ hp motor in there, you might want to keep the car a little longer.

 

No visible damage on the cylinder wall hat I could see. I am going to tq plate hone the cylinders out to 4.070", primarily due to piston choice. I am not doing a nasy built nitrous setup, lol. I 'might' bump up to a 200 shot, but that would be about it.... But it does leave plenty of room for growth. (would need to further upgrade the fuel system, switch to a direct port, etc....) The block should be good for plenty of power at this point. The stock cranks have been tested in applications up to over 1500 hp... I will now have forged pistons and rods, clevite main and rod bearings,and ARP hardware. Though I think I am keeping the G6x3 camshaft which is primarily an N/A camshaft, but works for n2o.... though i have been thinking about switching to a n2o cam....

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Soo is your c5z a m6 or auto? I remember you so heavenly defending autos in the porche/vette thread...As for my drivetrain.. The z51 gearing with the 3.90 gears.. Not idea for road/street racing roll racing... Zr1 trans and a 3.90 diff would be sweet and never actually thought about it. But with 3.90 gears you'll need a 28in tire... Only shitto's available with a 28in tire that will fit without major upgrades (lg drag splendle).. M/t makes a tire for a 19in rim that'll hit the 28in mark but not enough side wall like these 305/45/18's I have.. It's all about the side wall and tire height when you choose your gearing
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Really? How rich? (I was tuned for high 11s low 12s on spray). Whats the cause behind too much fuel causing a ring land to crack? i would think with too much fuel cylinder temps would be down? Presuming the cause is the cylinder getting too hot and ring gap closing and putting pressure on the land....

 

 

 

Fuel gets behind the rings, its common on high hp nitrous cars. Normally much fatter than that.

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Soo is your c5z a m6 or auto?

 

What do you think?

 

.. The z51 gearing with the 3.90 gears.. Not idea for road/street racing roll racing... Zr1 trans and a 3.90 diff would be sweet and never actually thought about it.

Do you even know the difference between the z51 and zr1 gearing, and the mph per gear changes? It seems to me you dont know much about what you are talking about.

 

But with 3.90 gears you'll need a 28in tire...

No, you do not.

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