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Anyone here drive a cobalt? F35 Trans Question


Tmarter

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***SOLVED***

 

So I'm trying to fix a loose shifter, but the play isn't in the cables, I've already tried adjusted them and ruled that out. The play is in the weighted arm on the bellhousing that the cable connects to, and it seems like its not even aligned right... 1st is almost blocked because it hits the side of the battery, and barely slips in...and pops out when I start to engage the clutch.

 

Tried a couple test runs and it won't even go in 1,3 or 5. Not sure if there is another adjustment, or if the forks could be bent (someone said that bent forks is almost impossible with the way the f35 is set up, but I haven't torn one apart to tell if that's a valid statement or not.

Edited by Tmarter
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Might check roll pins to see if they need replaced. Notoriously bad on these cars.

Also check the shift cables' collars on the shifter bracket that attaches to the trans. They can become weathered and get loose.

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How does it hit the side of the battery? Cobalts have the battery in the trunk.

 

Actually not specifically a Cobalt, I just know they use the same 5 speed manual trans. I have an 04 Saab 9-3

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Might check roll pins to see if they need replaced. Notoriously bad on these cars.

Also check the shift cables' collars on the shifter bracket that attaches to the trans. They can become weathered and get loose.

 

There was a roll pin that completely broke, that one locked the weighted cable arm to the selector shaft, and I wasn't even able to select gears at all when that happened... I put a bolt and locking nut in there to fix the problem, and I could select gears after that, but there was still a lot of play in that shaft...

 

Is there another one that could have broken somewhere that isn't inside the bellhousing? Because the shaft is definitely loose and that would make sense if there was another bad pin somewhere... I just don't have a diagram to base off of. Tomorrow is my day off so I'll be looking around more then. Thanks for the advice so far.

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I don't know where else to turn other than inside, and I don't know the inside of the F35 that well. If you've already done the roll pin then I don't know where else to turn. Hope you get it taken care of without having to drop the trans.
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I don't know where else to turn other than inside, and I don't know the inside of the F35 that well. If you've already done the roll pin then I don't know where else to turn. Hope you get it taken care of without having to drop the trans.

 

Yeah I'm keeping my fingers crossed...I know I'm rebuilding the 5 speed or swapping an f40 6 speed if it has to come out...plus LSD. Not sure if the 5 speed is worth rebuilding at 135k, or to pick up the f40 and buy new mounts cables etc...but the pontiac G6 f40 bolts right up and it's only 400 new.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/G6-6-Speed-Manual-Transmission-0-Miles-F40-Trans-/251157968650

 

Also does anyone know of a shop that does cryo treating or shot peening in central Ohio?

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Yeah but that's a F40 trans, not very common but they are out there.

 

Yeah, my model was linear (2.0t) at stock, so it came with the f35 5 speed. the Arc (2.0T) and v6 Aero 2.8T both came with the f40, so I would just need the bellhousing and it would bolt right up. It's a stronger trans for sure, noiser, but the extra gear would probably be more useful with the gt30 build I have planned...Just debating whether a built 5 speed or 6 speed would be better for autoX and track, not entirely interested in drag at the moment, but not 100% out of the question

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Ah, good to hear. My inclinations were correct. Now it's time to check mine...

 

yeah I threaded a bolt through the first time the rollpin broke, and there must've been such a little amount of wiggle that I wasn't able to notice...I pulled the bolt out and it was bent to shit...that might explain a few things lol

 

tapped a steel pin in with a ball peen hammer and put some thick dabs of JB Weld on the ends so it has no where to go, shifts great, just in time for the nice weather this weekend!

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