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Transmission additives to help with longevity?


BigOxley

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I bought a winter beater with a bad transmission (no reverse). I'm going to take a gamble on a salvage yard trans that i found in Xenia. it will have a 30-day warranty.

 

it's for a 95 legacy 2.2 automatic. they have a history of bad transmission in these cars.

 

are there any good transmission additives to throw in there?

 

 

here's a bad iphone pic

leggy.JPG

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While I'm not an advocate for mechanic in a can, Lucas makes good products, so if putting something in there for a little extra insurance is your plan I'd go with that.

 

Copy.

 

You would probably know this too... Is there a way to test the salvage yard transmission, to see if it's reverse is functioning, while it's out of the car?

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Several years ago I bought an '86 Chevy Celebrity for $100. It had a slipping trans that was acting up all the time. I put some Lucas in it because I didn't feel like replacing it, and it helped a ton. Made the car driveable and never got worse after that. I was pleasantly surprised
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DO NOT put any friction modifying additives in there such as lube guard. Not a huge fan of additives in a trans that is not having issues. I like Lucas but only if a trans is having issues. Depending on design of trans you can air check them if you pull the pan and vb before you install.

 

People have different opinions on additives. When I rebuilt Mcghees trans I added no additives and regular merc dextron when in reality the trans calls for atf +4. I used to add friction modifiers to atf to essential make it atf+4 but I changed some clearances in my dodge transmissions as well as with the valve body and I no longer want to assist any slip. Especially behind a powerful Cummins.

 

If I know you, it's a cheap ass car. Swap it in, fill it with whatever and drive it until you are tired of it in 4.365 months and forget about it.

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DO NOT put any friction modifying additives in there such as lube guard. Not a huge fan of additives in a trans that is not having issues. I like Lucas but only if a trans is having issues. Depending on design of trans you can air check them if you pull the pan and vb before you install.

 

People have different opinions on additives. When I rebuilt Mcghees trans I added no additives and regular merc dextron when in reality the trans calls for atf +4. I used to add friction modifiers to atf to essential make it atf+4 but I changed some clearances in my dodge transmissions as well as with the valve body and I no longer want to assist any slip. Especially behind a powerful Cummins.

 

If I know you, it's a cheap ass car. Swap it in, fill it with whatever and drive it until you are tired of it in 4.365 months and forget about it.

 

Ha! Probably.

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I'm a little late on this, but I'll recommend flushing the trans cooler in it now as well at a minimum. If you can find an OE style replacement for a reasonable cost I'd say opt for that. Just my $.02, but as stated, metal particles can still be in there and cause more issues on down the line, although it's a beater, $50 is still cheaper than missing a few hours or a day of work and paying for a tow.
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I'm a little late on this, but I'll recommend flushing the trans cooler in it now as well at a minimum. If you can find an OE style replacement for a reasonable cost I'd say opt for that. Just my $.02, but as stated, metal particles can still be in there and cause more issues on down the line, although it's a beater, $50 is still cheaper than missing a few hours or a day of work and paying for a tow.

 

Looks like the the trans cooler is part of the radiator. They are cheap though. $77 on the web. Won't hurt to get a new one.

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Looks like the the trans cooler is part of the radiator. They are cheap though. $77 on the web. Won't hurt to get a new one.

 

I bought a large B&M cooler from Jegs for < $60. I'm running it in series with the stock cooler. '07 WRX w/ 4EAT. If your stock cooler is clogged, you can just run the cooler as a standalone.

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