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Bike lowering


schmuckingham

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Mcteach me what it does to the handling of a bike, I have my theories but i have nowhere near the seat time nor the experience some of the pople on this board have. I want my bike an all purpose tool, street drag and track if possible and I do relaize one will effect the performance of the other. I would assume the lower the center of gravity the less leverage you have on the pendulum and its harder to turn in but what else is there.

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It makes handling suck! I don't know the mechanics or phyics of it, but I rode my friend Jess's R6 and it was lowered ALOT. It sucked! Handling was complete garbage. Disappointing since it was an R6 and thats why I wanted to try it out and see how good they really handle...

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It makes handling suck! I don't know the mechanics or phyics of it, but I rode my friend Jess's R6 and it was lowered ALOT. It sucked! Handling was complete garbage. Disappointing since it was an R6 and thats why I wanted to try it out and see how good they really handle...

I should have stated the difference here. By lowered I mean by maybe an inch not so fcking low my nose touches my front hugger....... thats what straps are for.

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I should have stated the difference here. By lowered I mean by maybe an inch not so fcking low my nose touches my front hugger....... thats what straps are for.

Lol ok.. well I got nothin. I was told a little bit wouldn't hurt anything though.. Good point with the angles...

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a really really short description of the geometry effect is:

1.) if the front and back are lowered different amounts, you will end up with a different rake angle in your front forks.

2.) any amount of lowering in the front will shorten the wheelbase, as the front forks move up, the wheel moves toward the triple, in the horizontal plane.

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this is true sir

Even when braking hard. The rear lifts and the wheel base gets shorter (look at how the swingarm pivots, the angle of the forks(rake) also decreases.

When accellerating hard the rear squats and the wheel base slightly extends and the angle of the forks increases.

Unfortunately everything in the bike is a compramise and changes just move it to a different end of the spectrum.

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But didn't someone say that lowering just a TAD in the front would HELP cornering? Mike, when I rode your bike on Saturday, I LOVED it except for my baby corners so much easier....

It depends on the bike and its setup and lowering a TAD usually means just a couple of milimeters and not an inch

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nice thread..i been wanting to lower my bike a little bit..i dont have the $$ for track and im just a street rider..if i go to a track more likely be a drag but prob not even that. But I agree with schmuck I dont want to slam it just lower it a lil bit!

after all the problems who have had, i think it would be wise not to drag that r6

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When I bought my bike it was lowered with adjustable dog bones. I think it was dropped a 1/2inch. The forks were unchanged from stock (?10mm above triple). The turn in and slow speed stability was deplorable! One of the first things I did was raise it back up to the highest setting and since rebuilt or replaced everything. By far the best money and time I spent working on my bike. I don't drag or do track days but from a street rider I would say get it tuned for you and go ahead and get the adjustable dog bones for the strip and you should have what you need. But then again I really don't know personally.

Good Luck!

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As Jarvis stated, by lowering the front (i.e. pushing the forks up through the triple tree), the rake (angle derived from the relationship between the front wheel and the frame/body) is decreased. If done IN MODERATION this should aid in achieving quicker turn-in.

Mine is lowered a couple of mm in the front, and I've ridden an RC with stock settings, and I could actually tell the difference (albeit minor) just putting around town.

Most RC owners (to quell the disadvantage of riding an overweight piglet), will lower it a couple mm in the front, and shim the rear up a couple mm for quick turn-in. CAVEAT: Don't get carried away with decreasing rake, as you're flirting with instability, and the steering could get a lil squirly and toss out some headshake (I assume that your CBR has that Honda Electronic Steering Damper).

Hope this helps.

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i would think a lowered bike would help, not hurt in windy conditions.. that doesnt make sense to me but ok

your minimizing the gap between the bottom of the fairings to the ground, more air/wind gets "stuck" since their is minimal space to go under and has to go over hence pushing you and the bike more.

thats the best way i can think of it.

it might help if you were directly into the wind, but i think the windy conditions was referring to cross wind.

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If i do lower the bike it will be equal amounts on both ends to keep the rake of the bike for obvious previously stated reasons. I was just wondering what its going to at around or under an inch, like I stated I want to keep this bike as versatile (sp?) as possible.

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how often do you plan on going to the road track? its not hard to raise and lower, doesnt take long at all, youll probably be going to the strip more since its cheaper, and probably closer, and available every weekend.

slam it on its balls if you want, and before a track day, raise it back up

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how often do you plan on going to the road track? its not hard to raise and lower, doesnt take long at all, youll probably be going to the strip more since its cheaper, and probably closer, and available every weekend.

slam it on its balls if you want, and before a track day, raise it back up

hhhmmmmmm you speak McTruth here............. i approve this idea.

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