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warped brakes


PRD2BDF

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On my 2011 9-5, the brakes are warped. It vibrates severely when braking from freeway speeds. I know that.

 

However I am reading conflicting reports. Many people say to replace the rotors and pads while many also say to just replace the pads if the rotors are in good shape and not to turn them.

 

Your thoughts?

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On my 2011 9-5, the brakes are warped. It vibrates severely when braking from freeway speeds. I know that.

 

However I am reading conflicting reports. Many people say to replace the rotors and pads while many also say to just replace the pads if the rotors are in good shape and not to turn them.

 

Your thoughts?

 

Makes no sense. If your rotors are warped and vibrating they need replaced or turned. New rotors are usually so cheap to replace, I just replace everything.

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I've done both. If they are really bad just replace them with some Brembo Blanks. However if the rotors aren't too bad then you could just have them turned.

 

My Fusion vibrated a little at 25k so I had them turned and replaced the pads. Simple fix and now at 65k with no issues.

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I figure we make this thread into a brake-knowledge thread. Cheap as I am, I can't bring myself to buy eBay brakes from PowerSport or BrakeMotive>>>http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-REAR-PERFORMANCE-DRILLED-SLOTTED-BRAKE-ROTORS-AND-CERAMIC-PADS-BMW-325i-/221000420706?fits=Make%3ABMW&hash=item3374a6cd62&vxp=mtr.

 

Went onto RockAuto and priced a cheap but I think reasonable package for aggressive street driving (no real track time, aside from an occasional autoX):

 

Rotors:

RAYBESTOS Part # 96387R {#1096387} 5 Bolt Holes Professional Grade - Rear

RAYBESTOS Part # 96780R {#1096780} 5 Bolt Holes Professional Grade - Front

Pads:

CENTRIC Part # 30105580 Premium Ceramic Pads w/Shims - Front

CENTRIC Part # 30106920 Premium Ceramic Pads w/Shims - Rear

 

I like that the rotors are coated on the hat, to hopefully hide rust down the road. Also, with shipping and no 5% discount (which I usually get emailed) it's $144.44 shipped, which is as cheap of a package as I can get.

 

Anyone have experience with Centric ceramics or Raybestos rotors?

Edited by zeitgeist57
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I figure we make this thread into a brake-knowledge thread. Cheap as I am, I can't bring myself to buy eBay brakes from PowerSport or BrakeMotive>>>http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-REAR-PERFORMANCE-DRILLED-SLOTTED-BRAKE-ROTORS-AND-CERAMIC-PADS-BMW-325i-/221000420706?fits=Make%3ABMW&hash=item3374a6cd62&vxp=mtr.

 

Went onto RockAuto and priced a cheap but I think reasonable package for aggressive street driving (no real track time, aside from an occasional autoX):

 

Rotors:

RAYBESTOS Part # 96387R {#1096387} 5 Bolt Holes Professional Grade - Rear

RAYBESTOS Part # 96780R {#1096780} 5 Bolt Holes Professional Grade - Front

Pads:

CENTRIC Part # 30105580 Premium Ceramic Pads w/Shims - Front

CENTRIC Part # 30106920 Premium Ceramic Pads w/Shims - Rear

 

I like that the rotors are coated on the hat, to hopefully hide rust down the road. Also, with shipping and no 5% discount (which I usually get emailed) it's $144.44 shipped, which is as cheap of a package as I can get.

 

Anyone have experience with Centric ceramics or Raybestos rotors?

 

The Raybestos Professional Grade rotors are not coated. To get the coated hat/edge you have to buy the Advanced Technology rotors. I've used the Adv. Tech rotors along with the Raybestos pads on several of my cars and have always been happy. The coating on the rotors is pretty durable and still looks good even after a few winters.

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These days with the cost of most rotors (Except BMW and other high end luxury cars) being so low, you are just as well off to get new rotors as you are to have Timbo down at NAPA cut them.

 

This. I've kinda always thought rotors warp from heat. If whatever you run warps in 20k miles then I would think that turning them will just get you another 20k before they warp again. Best to just get a good middle grade rotor like brembo blanks or something better than the current ones.

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You know what? Stop stopping. Problem solved. And if nothing else, the harder you brake, the more it'll shake which is like one of those fancy emergency braking situation alerts you get in something like a Cadillac except your whole car shakes and warns everyone in it. Tight. :)
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Happens more frequently on an automatic trans, since you generally don't take them out of gear when stopped. One panic freeway stop, then sit with the pedal down for a few seconds, and your rotors are toast.
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As everyone has said, get pads and rotors. Ensure that the hub is clean, and properly torque your wheels. If you want to go a step further to ensure your new brakes last, use a dial indicator to ensure there is no lateral runout. Most will say this is overkill, but you cannot feel lateral runout and it will lead to uneven wear and warped brakes over time. If I've had a customer with severe pulsation I will check this when I'm done to ensure there is no issue with the hub or anything else.

 

and properly torque your wheels!!!

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