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My new ST


Ackbar00

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TrueCar (for whatever that's worth) seems to be very similar DC to Columbus. Whereas for the WRX it's a good bit more expensive in Columbus than DC.

 

The dealer up the street has a red '15 ST3 w/o moon roof for just under 25k, then a few others still w/o moon roof listed at like 29k...wtf?! Is the red like possessed or something?

 

Different dealers have different advertising strategies. Some dealers advertise honest pricing which includes rebates that everyone can/should qualify for, some dealers advertise MSRP and then qualify you when you arrive, some dealers advertise every single rebate under the sun.

 

The last ones are the dealers I don't like. You walk in thinking you'll get a great price and when it's time to buy they tell you that unless you're an amputee active duty war veteran with a realtor's license that just graduated a PhD program with a competitor lease and loyalty trade in and type B- blood that you won't qualify for the advertised price.

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Yeah. There's a bunch of dealers around me out here. When the time comes I'll just have to play the game. I just thought it was weird they had one single car that was the same as the others, but way cheaper.

 

Ackbar, any updated impressions after having it a bit longer?

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  • 1 month later...
ST bros! Thoughts on 1000 mile oil changes? Just hit 1k yesterday and I'm trying to decide whether I should do it ASAP, or wait till 3k or so. Also, mods. How is Ford with mods? With my old WRX, Subaru was pretty strict. I know you can get the Ford racing tune and intake and keep your warranty, but how does that work if I've got an extended 7/75k bumper-bumper warranty? Honestly beyond that all I want to do is get a new intercooler to help with heat soak, and an oil catch can.
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ST bros! Thoughts on 1000 mile oil changes? Just hit 1k yesterday and I'm trying to decide whether I should do it ASAP, or wait till 3k or so. Also, mods. How is Ford with mods? With my old WRX, Subaru was pretty strict. I know you can get the Ford racing tune and intake and keep your warranty, but how does that work if I've got an extended 7/75k bumper-bumper warranty? Honestly beyond that all I want to do is get a new intercooler to help with heat soak, and an oil catch can.

 

All going to depend on the dealer really. Where I work, they don't seem to mind and we've had cars towed here from other dealers in town because those dealers refused to work on modified cars.

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My guess is just as bad as Subaru, I have been driving around in a 2014 Focus Titanium, not a bad car really, could use the power in the ST. Other than that, being loaded with options, it's a solid car.

 

That's what drove me to the ST. It's totally fucking loaded. I didn't even know it had adaptive headlights until the first time I went around a turn at night. I thought I was hallucinating.

 

All going to depend on the dealer really. Where I work, they don't seem to mind and we've had cars towed here from other dealers in town because those dealers refused to work on modified cars.

 

I figured as much. I'll have to call and ask about the whole Ford Performance warranty vs my extended warranty thing.

 

How about the 1000 mile oil change, did you do an early one on yours?

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I always do an oil change on a new car at 1000 miles, there are alot of lubricants and sealents they use when assembling an engine that I like to get out as well as any metal that might be left. Im kind of anal about that stuff though. :D
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ST bros! Thoughts on 1000 mile oil changes? Just hit 1k yesterday and I'm trying to decide whether I should do it ASAP, or wait till 3k or so. Also, mods. How is Ford with mods? With my old WRX, Subaru was pretty strict. I know you can get the Ford racing tune and intake and keep your warranty, but how does that work if I've got an extended 7/75k bumper-bumper warranty? Honestly beyond that all I want to do is get a new intercooler to help with heat soak, and an oil catch can.

 

Delayed response sorry.

 

But basically the ford racing warranty is a seperate warranty that takes place of all parts affected by the frpp tune (so your engine basically). It's a 3 year/36000 mile warranty. After that, you will no longer have warranty coverage on anything said tune affects, though you'll still maintain warranty on unrelated parts. It would be same thing with your extended warranty, non-affected parts would maintain warranty while affected would lose it after the frpp warranty runs out.

 

I've heard on and offs about Ford being pretty strict. A guy on the facebook group said he had his warranty voided from an intercooler, which is sad giving how shit the stock one is. Nick's dealer seems to be more friendly though and that's where I plan on going in the event of anything major.

 

In a nut shell, most people just go the Cobb AP route and just flash back to stock for dealer visits, this way you maintain your original warranty. Cobb (and the tuners) claim their is no way for Ford to be able to tell your car is tuned, all the flash does is trigger a code for battery disconnect that will go away after a couple key cycles.

 

Here's a thread from the ST forums with some info on the FRPP warranty stuff.

 

http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-maintenance/18533-official-ford-racing-warranty-thread.html

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Delayed response sorry.

 

But basically the ford racing warranty is a seperate warranty that takes place of all parts affected by the frpp tune (so your engine basically). It's a 3 year/36000 mile warranty. After that, you will no longer have warranty coverage on anything said tune affects, though you'll still maintain warranty on unrelated parts. It would be same thing with your extended warranty, non-affected parts would maintain warranty while affected would lose it after the frpp warranty runs out.

 

I've heard on and offs about Ford being pretty strict. A guy on the facebook group said he had his warranty voided from an intercooler, which is sad giving how shit the stock one is. Nick's dealer seems to be more friendly though and that's where I plan on going in the event of anything major.

 

In a nut shell, most people just go the Cobb AP route and just flash back to stock for dealer visits, this way you maintain your original warranty. Cobb (and the tuners) claim their is no way for Ford to be able to tell your car is tuned, all the flash does is trigger a code for battery disconnect that will go away after a couple key cycles.

 

Here's a thread from the ST forums with some info on the FRPP warranty stuff.

 

http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-maintenance/18533-official-ford-racing-warranty-thread.html

 

Sorry for the delayed response myself, just saw this lol. Thanks for the post though! Very informative. The only thing I really wanted to do was an intercooler for heat soak, but if the dealer can't tell if you flash back to stock...well then that opens doors.

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Focus ST was on my radar, but after reading this, not sure:

 

http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-discussions/5514-your-car-randomly-stalling-idling-wierd-read.html

 

Ford is really not good to deal with across the board it seems...

 

Not sure how far into that thread you read but focusst.org does have its usual share of alarmists and keyboard warriors. I had that issue happen to my car. It started out at as a TSB fix and was upgraded to a recall due to an improperly crimped wiring harness on a short production run of cars.

 

The issue happened 3 times to my car, all 3 after it had rained extremely heavily and was very humid. All 3 times the car went into limp mode, and all 3 times the issue went away by itself after 2 restart cycles and just stored the CEL code.

 

When I got in for the recall fix I was given a loaner vehicle even though the fix only took about 3 hours. Of course it helps that I work at a dealership but usually that means I'm expected NOT to take loaners so they're available for customers.

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Not sure how far into that thread you read but focusst.org does have its usual share of alarmists and keyboard warriors. I had that issue happen to my car. It started out at as a TSB fix and was upgraded to a recall due to an improperly crimped wiring harness on a short production run of cars.

 

The issue happened 3 times to my car, all 3 after it had rained extremely heavily and was very humid. All 3 times the car went into limp mode, and all 3 times the issue went away by itself after 2 restart cycles and just stored the CEL code.

 

When I got in for the recall fix I was given a loaner vehicle even though the fix only took about 3 hours. Of course it helps that I work at a dealership but usually that means I'm expected NOT to take loaners so they're available for customers.

 

I skimmed a lot of it (101 pages is a bunch) and I understand about alarmists and keyboard warriors (I have to baby sit them) but to me it seems Ford at times just does not treat customers well.

 

That might be a function of the dealer/tech/customer ect, but its kind of scary to hear that same song across the board.

 

On the other hand it is GOOD to hear from a real person that is local and has been around the block on this.

 

I've turned into a wagon/hatch whore due to their utility and would like to test drive one.

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MY car would stumble only when kicking the AC on max from an idle.

 

The TSB was taken care of quickly and hasn't happened since.

 

That Focus board is full of typical car neophytes who will ask which washer fluid is the best and what they should use in their new hot rod. Overreaction is commonplace there.

 

If you want to drive one Brian, I'll let you try mine out next time it stops raining (if that ever happens)

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MY car would stumble only when kicking the AC on max from an idle.

 

The TSB was taken care of quickly and hasn't happened since.

 

That Focus board is full of typical car neophytes who will ask which washer fluid is the best and what they should use in their new hot rod. Overreaction is commonplace there.

 

If you want to drive one Brian, I'll let you try mine out next time it stops raining (if that ever happens)

 

Same thing with mine. There's also a big thread on the forum about the grounding isn't sufficient enough and that's why the issue occurs. Seems like a lot of people put in a more substantial ground cable and clean off the post and there's no more issue with the idling issue.

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They heatsoak pretty bad, and the brakes evidently fade pretty quick on a track. Obviously these are issues that can pretty easily be addressed.

A friend of mine tracked his at Sebring last weekend and plans to do a lot of track days this year. He had nothing but good things to say, but he did swap brake pads.

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i've put this car on my radar, as i live near a road course and would love to get a good car to introduce myself to road racing

 

No offense to the ST, nice car, but there are better options out there for you. Start a new thread and I'm sure you'll get about 50 different opinions on what to buy. Haha.

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No offense to the ST, nice car, but there are better options out there for you. Start a new thread and I'm sure you'll get about 50 different opinions on what to buy. Haha.

 

 

^This. Why buy an ST when the 345hp RS version drops next year!!:fuckyeah:

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The more I research the ST line, the more I see they fit my needs.

 

Going to try and test drive a Fuckus ST tonight, and if the dealer is going to play ball I will drive it off the lot.

 

I don't NEED the car, but if they are willing to wheel and deal I'll make rain.

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