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2015 Mustang GT Boosted


88lx5oh

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Most likely in the 125-128 range

 

Not bad.

 

How much more work/money would it take to be 130+?

 

I want to make the jump to V8 eventually, but after having tasted 130+ with the potential to be even faster, I know i'd be disappointed at spending 4x the money on a new platform to not be at least as fast as what I have can do now. Yeah, theoretically the V8 should be less maintenance and work, but again, for 4x the cost, it's hard for me to make that justification right now.

 

Either way, this car looks pretty amazing, and i'm looking forward to seeing what it actually traps.

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Not bad.

 

How much more work/money would it take to be 130+?

 

I want to make the jump to V8 eventually, but after having tasted 130+ with the potential to be even faster, I know i'd be disappointed at spending 4x the money on a new platform to not be at least as fast as what I have can do now. Yeah, theoretically the V8 should be less maintenance and work, but again, for 4x the cost, it's hard for me to make that justification right now.

 

Either way, this car looks pretty amazing, and i'm looking forward to seeing what it actually traps.

 

Put some twins on it. That would get you there. On3's car is pretty fast from what I've seen.

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  • 1 month later...

a few more things got ordered or installed.

ended up ditching the steed shifter base bushing in favor of a Full Tilt Boogie shifter bracket, and shift arm bushings.

 

got my ARP Flywheel bolts and McLeod Lightened steel flywheel to go with my McLeod Twin Disc Clutch. Tomorrow i head down to pick up DSS Half Shafts at Carlyle Racing.

 

i talked with Travis Boundary @ Boundary Engineering today about his Chromoly Billet oil pump gears, and ill be ordering a set of those, but asked him about lower timing gear/crank gear, which at the moment he does not make, but after talking with him, and explaining the need, and the want from a lot of coyote motor guys he is going to start the R&D on it, so ill be getting that as well when it is finished.

 

so in about a month or so, the car will get torn down to start putting the new parts in, and will only be a set of drag radials away from making some passes at the track. which i have already been talking to Derek about the Nitto NT05R

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Goodies

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g425/hobglide/DB58682A-8D5A-479F-8423-BB6A30E6F257_zpst8nxvaiv.jpg

 

And thanks to Mark Carlyle at Carlyle Racing

DSS 1400hp half shafts.. These should hold up

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g425/hobglide/930C9566-D67E-4ECA-AA55-4DC6E5398D0A_zpsyobzunn8.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Engine wise, (and maybe Brian can chime in here) what is a boosted stock 5.0 coyote believed to be able to handle power wise? I have heard the 2015's have better internals and heads, than previous years, likened to the boss 302 motors. and I have "heard" there are some 900whp TT 5.0's down here in DFW.

 

Could I get 800-850whp out of a stock 2015 and still get 20000-30000mi out of it, or is it like, a few drag passes at that power on the stock motor and you are needing a new motor?

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There are quite a few 900+hpcars are stock motor. Week point is the oil pump gears and lower cam gears. Pretty much anyone making over 550rwhp is doing billet gears in them. Other wise stock motor. It is a boss block aside from the pistons are not forged. They are some specially treated Pistons said to be nearly as good as the forged ones in the boss. Heads are very similar to the boss, but don't flow as good. Very close though. The new coyote is honestly a parts bin motor. But it works very well. Haven't heard of any failures yet on these motors. And there are a decent number of guys in the 9s on stock motor and stock auto trans. I think 2 stock motor mustangs in the 8s now. All full weight cars on stock auto as well.
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There are quite a few 900+hpcars are stock motor. Week point is the oil pump gears and lower cam gears. Pretty much anyone making over 550rwhp is doing billet gears in them. Other wise stock motor. It is a boss block aside from the pistons are not forged. They are some specially treated Pistons said to be nearly as good as the forged ones in the boss. Heads are very similar to the boss, but don't flow as good. Very close though. The new coyote is honestly a parts bin motor. But it works very well. Haven't heard of any failures yet on these motors. And there are a decent number of guys in the 9s on stock motor and stock auto trans. I think 2 stock motor mustangs in the 8s now. All full weight cars on stock auto as well.

 

Dry sump and more boost is what I got out of that.

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There are quite a few 900+hpcars are stock motor. Week point is the oil pump gears and lower cam gears. Pretty much anyone making over 550rwhp is doing billet gears in them. Other wise stock motor. It is a boss block aside from the pistons are not forged. They are some specially treated Pistons said to be nearly as good as the forged ones in the boss. Heads are very similar to the boss, but don't flow as good. Very close though. The new coyote is honestly a parts bin motor. But it works very well. Haven't heard of any failures yet on these motors. And there are a decent number of guys in the 9s on stock motor and stock auto trans. I think 2 stock motor mustangs in the 8s now. All full weight cars on stock auto as well.

 

Thanks for the info. I'd guess I need 800ish wheel for one to be fast enough for my liking.

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out with the old

 

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g425/hobglide/B7BB1934-16A4-4ADD-B1C6-B2682B54038F_zpsilcjgwgl.jpg

 

 

in with the better

 

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g425/hobglide/CB37DC6D-B519-440E-A013-77E2D94FAD9D_zpsglxvas5j.jpg

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installed the DSS 1400hp axles tonight.

 

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g425/hobglide/6BE41D72-8FA4-4137-8A34-7DBCC6BE2AC3_zpspcoywjuv.jpg

 

stock top, DSS bottom

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g425/hobglide/F80C6EFE-8986-47AB-9DCB-8AD05D1C298E_zpsdqjobdk8.jpg

 

and took the clutch pedal spring out. Makes the clutch pedal have a more linear feel

 

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g425/hobglide/663DD316-334E-4742-9477-5336457F33B2_zps2kvbplnp.jpg

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and took the clutch pedal spring out. Makes the clutch pedal have a more linear feel

 

http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g425/hobglide/663DD316-334E-4742-9477-5336457F33B2_zps2kvbplnp.jpg

 

I've been thinking about doing this. Probably will when I do my spring install.

 

Question on the rear springs. BMR says to wait to tighten all the nuts and bolts until the car is on the ground, to allow some preload and prevent premature bushing failure.

 

Is that basically just get them all finger tight, lower car to the ground, and then back off a 1/4 turn and then tighten all down to appropriate tq specs?

 

I've never had to do that before...

Edited by Aaron
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