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Coyote Swap New Edge


Toph6888

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Well, after this year I was coming to the realization that the turbo v6 wasn't quite coming to be what I was hoping for, and having done a lot of racing this past year and also getting to drive in a lot of other friends cars, I decided it was time. I was thinking of putting a new turbo on the car (~$2k when said and done) but decided to put that turbo money plus what I got for the V6/turbo kit/t5 trans to be COST NEUTRAL into the coyote swap.

 

The old setup:

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A quick two evenings in the garage had everything out and ready for sale:

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New plan, looked at a lot of options, but I ultimately decided on a coyote engine. Looked at 03/04 cobra motors, building up a 96-98 cobra motor for the aluminum block, even thought of LS for a while, but ultimately I want to be able to get to 400whp/400wtq all motor while staying in the Ford family, and finally decided on coyote.

 

Its a proper set up for racing with a nice broad power range, makes the power I want, and is upgradeable in the future. Not to mention parts availability. To put it in my car I need a 96-04 v8 transmission, the 96-04 engine mounts/bellhousing pattern, and it drops right into my k member with no modifications.

 

Ford also has an aftermarket ECU available so all OEM functions (TI-VCT mainly) with new "body" harness and everything to make it run. Apparently a similar setup can get past the PATS on the stock ECU's, but for as complete a kit as the Ford Racing ecu was, and how much I was able to sell my V6 stuff for it was an easy justification.

 

Decided to go with an F150 coyote rather than a mustang coyote engine as the main differences are only cams, oil pan gasket (mustang gets a molded in windage tray) and a drop in compression ration from 11:1 down to 10.5:1. However, the F150 motor is typically half the cost of the mustang motor which goes for around $4-6k used.

 

I picked up a gen II motor (2015+, 11-14 is Gen 1) from an F150 in PA from a guy who bought it to put in his car, but then sold his project car. I also picked up a T56 to get some better gear ratios.

 

Black friday shopping yielded the majority of the remaining parts, inlcuding:

 

BBK long tube headers / BBK mid pipe for coyote swaps into 79-04 mustangs

JBA 3" catback exhaust for IRS

Ford Racing Coyote Control Pack

Flywheel/clutch

Engine mounts/necessary hardware

JLT Cold Air Intake (used) off of the coyote forums

New tranmission crossmember for the T56

Full Return Lines/Fittings/Fuel Pump (already had the on3 hat, just needed the new bits)

Cobalt gauges (could force the stock gauges to work, but then you need to run the original PCM for just the gauges, and the new PCM for the engine, and I decided to just go to all new gauges because I got a great deal on teh set on ebay).

 

Finally, some pictures (note: this engine is fucking huge)

 

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Other New Parts:

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I have pretty much all the parts on order, they will be arriving over the next few days.

 

First I will swap out the F150 cams for the mustang cams (all four are $250 total from ford), get the oil pan gasket swapped out, and then start putting engine/trans in over december. Hopefully can get most of the big stuff done by december, and tinker with wiring/gauges for the next month or two and have it running in the spring.

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This is awesome! Really looking forward to seeing the progress on this thing.

 

Can you breakdown what the parts cost you so far?

 

Sure. I have a whole excel sheet haha. My target budget was about $10k. I am also doing more (gauges, full AN line fuel system, etc) so I gain some price there, but I totally scored on the engine and the trans came in at a decent price, which were the two big costs for the project.

 

Fuel System (-8 feed, -6 return, fittings, regulator and pump) = ~$650, plus another $250-300 for the hat and another $250 for the cobra tank (I already had those two).

 

Gauges I was able to get autometer cobalt tach, speedo, oil pressure, water temp, and volt for $450 on ebay (over $750 new) and then also bought a fuel gauge, and a new housing to fit in stock location so about $750 total for gauges.

 

Transmission was $1600 for a 30k mile cobra trans, then another $650 for the clutch, flywheel, bolts, speedo sensors, block plate, crossmember, etc. So total of $2250 there.

 

Exhaust was a total of about $1200. ~$530 for the long tubes, $225 for the mid pipe and $450 for the catback. All of this was bought on sale though.

 

Swap parts are things like the ecu kit ($1500), new pedal bracket ($75), radiator hoses ($30), and accessory bracket kit to put the 94-04 v8 accessories on the coyote (so I can have power steering and AC and use coyote alternator, $520) for a total of $2100.

 

And finally the engine. I got extremely lucky and drove a total of 9 hours round trip to get it. Its a 2015 F150 motor with 3,300 miles for $2800. Usually these go in the $3.5-4.5k range since they are the gen 2 engine and make 385hp/390tq stock.

 

The only other major parts I need are the mustang cams ($250), cam bolts ($100), oil pan gasket ($40) and the gauge housing ($150). Right now I have a total of $9950 into it.

 

Once I get those last parts, I'll be at a grand total of ~$10,450. Sticker price for these parts though is $11,600, so I did pretty well at black friday saving over $1000.

 

To pay for it, I have the following funding:

V6 engine sold for $2300

Turbo kit sold for $3300

T5 Gforce trans sold for $1000

Other misc bits sold for $800

Other things I don't use much anymore anohter $800

 

So ~$8200 in funding from selling old stuff, plus the $2k I was gonna put into the new turbo puts me right at about $10,200, so almost cost neutral.

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What type of racing will you be doing with it. Have considered the swap as well , would be interested in checking it out along the way.

 

I mostly autocross with more focus on trying to get to more track days. I spent a lot of time over the last two years autocrossing it getting it dialed in, but for as many events as I ran about half of them I ended up breaking some stupid part or having a coolant leak or something.

 

The V6 was fun to learn on, but I'm ready for an engine I can hopefully ahve just work (no major mods, stockish ecu tuning).

 

The main reason I decided coyote is during my track day at mid ohio my instructor had a 2013 boss 302 laguna seca full prepped track car (stripped interior, full "who knows how many points" cage, etc). I felt like I never was super low on power compared to him, but he just had such a broad torque curve and could just leave it in 4th the entire track and never lost power that I decided that was the right move. On straights I could probably keep up, but coming out of tight corners he just had so much more power it wasn't funny.

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Since the engine is out, and you'll be tearing it down for the cams, I would 100% do the Oil Pump Gears. Do some research, some do them/cam gears and crank damp all at once, should still be some black friday sales for these parts.

 

This will set you up to spin it high if you want, and have a pretty much bulletproof engine.

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Since the engine is out, and you'll be tearing it down for the cams, I would 100% do the Oil Pump Gears. Do some research, some do them/cam gears and crank damp all at once, should still be some black friday sales for these parts.

 

This will set you up to spin it high if you want, and have a pretty much bulletproof engine.

 

Ya, I have heard of the oil pump gears and the lower timing sprocket. Trying to decide how much money I want to blow on this thing. I do want to be able to use that full 7k rpm range.

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7k shouldn't be an issue, but these things can spin up to past 8k with basic mods.

 

You mentioned growing into it, mod wise, over the years. I'd do it now so you can just bolt on the GT350 IM/TB and get the perk of high 7k rpm power for autocross and HPDE.

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yah. The stock intake manifold doesn't seem to flow super well up top past 6500, but it doesn't seem to dive either. but like you said, better now than later. I'll have to look more into them, MMR billet oil pump gears and billet timing gear is $520 together. Not a bank breaker, but not small chunk of change either lol.
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yah. The stock intake manifold doesn't seem to flow super well up top past 6500, but it doesn't seem to dive either. but like you said, better now than later. I'll have to look more into them, MMR billet oil pump gears and billet timing gear is $520 together. Not a bank breaker, but not small chunk of change either lol.

 

Absolutely. Do your own research and do your thing, just something I'd do since the engine is out. Good luck.

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Worked on the engine a bit last night, I love having a super low mileage engine. Got the iron exhaust manifolds off, engine mounts off, took off the ac compressor (not sure if I'm going to use this one or the 99-04 compressor, depends on how I want to do ac lines) and also got the wiring looked at.

 

Looks like I'm going to need a new engine harness becuase the main connector got a bit smashed up. I could probably make it work, but its also a harness for an auto, which I have heard has some pins mixed up from the manual (supposedly) and a new harness from Ford is only $150, so I'll just bite the bullet and get a proper new harness.

 

Pulled the coils and sparkplugs, put a little oil where I could and just roatated it over a couple times. Everything spun cleanly, so good enough for me. Have those plugs in the cylinder head between the valves feels way easier to deal with than having them down by the exhaust manifolds/burning spark plug boots on an older style engine.

 

Also got my accessory bracket kit and JLT air intake in the mail last night. Tonight the majority of the other swap parts should be in.

 

Ordering mustang cams and the harness today, and probably going to just get the oil pump gears and timing gear while I am in there to just be done with it. Just another $800 pretty much today lol.

 

Hoping to get the cams, oil pump gears, timing gears and new harness on next weekend with the brackets for the accessories, then I can spend my week off at the end of december putting the engine/transmission in the car.

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Found a really good deal on a 2015-2017 coyote mustang crate motor, so I will be purchasing that and selling the F150 coyote motor. Nothing wrong with the F150 and I'm sure I could still make it work, but things are just going to be easier with going with the new crate engine and not having to worry about swapping cams. I am planning a wedding too, so I decided a little more money for an engine that is ready to go in the car out of the package is the way to go right now.

 

If you're interested in the F150 motor, let me know. Put it up on Craigslist for $4000, willing to do a deal for someone on here though if they are interested. http://columbus.craigslist.org/pts/5905539854.html

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If you're interested in the F150 motor, let me know. Put it up on Craigslist for $4000

 

That statement right there is why I will prolly never build another Ford engine again. $4000 and its doubtful that motor would make 400 NA to the tire (Yes, I have seen plenty of build threads). A 5.3 LSX with a cam and some long tubes? $1200 total? I mean at 4k that's 1/3 the cost of JP's RX7.......

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That statement right there is why I will prolly never build another Ford engine again. $4000 and its doubtful that motor would make 400 NA to the tire (Yes, I have seen plenty of build threads). A 5.3 LSX with a cam and some long tubes? $1200 total? I mean at 4k that's 1/3 the cost of JP's RX7.......

 

Is the coyote engine expensive, yup it is. And I agree, junkyard build or not caring about matching motors to make,etc, LS is the obvious choice, its also got the extra displacement to work it though.

 

For me and track racing/autox, I'll take the extra RPM range (factory, obviously an LS can be built up to a higher rpm redline) and the more interesting motor (TI-VCT) to me, personally. Anyways, would prefer to not have a "chevy vs. ford" battle in this thread.

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That statement right there is why I will prolly never build another Ford engine again. $4000 and its doubtful that motor would make 400 NA to the tire (Yes, I have seen plenty of build threads). A 5.3 LSX with a cam and some long tubes? $1200 total? I mean at 4k that's 1/3 the cost of JP's RX7.......

 

I raced a guy with a 2012 5.0 that had a cat back and tune. 390rwhp. Thats not far off from 400rwhp...

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I raced a guy with a 2012 5.0 that had a cat back and tune. 390rwhp. Thats not far off from 400rwhp...

 

The 2015-17 engines are putting out 380ish at the wheels stock. With an intake/tune, they should be just at or slightly over 400whp.

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