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Been thinking about getting rid of the 69....


Ackbar00
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I don't know. Still want a classic. Right now, this is at the top of my list:

 

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/494718167567473

 

Thought about buying that outright and then trying to see if I could trade the 69 for my old Fox back (if its still there).

 

Some others I am looking at:

 

Not bad, has just the right amount of ugly. Screaming for some rims.....

https://columbus.craigslist.org/ctd/d/super-sale-1969-ford-galaxie/6544758353.html

 

Along the same lines. A crusier

https://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/d/1968-galaxie-500-convertible/6521379361.html

 

Might be more than I want to take on. Thought it might be cool if the car got wrapped.

https://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/d/1969-mercury-cougarrx7/6493859918.html

 

 

Also thought of finding another fox with a decent drive train, pull it for the 69 and then keep the fox shell for another turbo something in the future.

 

Also kind of have a soft spot for C3 Vettes. Find a lot of them in my price range, and could always look into a LSx swap. Never even sat in one though. I like C5's, but unless I traded, are mostly out of my price range.

 

Also might just put that roller motor I have in the 69 and maybe that might be enough.

 

I'm kind of all over the map, been that way this entire winter. I'm not really looking for a huge project, just something I can give some TLC. Or just keep cracking with the 69. Biggest fear there, is I know I am over on the value of the car, so kind of afraid to keep putting a lot of money into it. Anyone else find anything cool?

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Have you put any real seat time in the 1969 since you did all that work? Feels like you are getting itchy for something else because you aren't using it enough...but I could be wrong.

 

 

Some. It is horrendously slow. Like it wont do a burnout on wet black top slow. But it does run well. Id have no issue driving it wherever. Hence a drivetrain swap.

 

My biggest issue with it now, is the windows and doors. The doors are just a bit off and the passenger window needs glued back in. It is a major PIA to just roll up the windows. I feel like getting the doors adjust is just outside my realm to deal with. Some people probably wouldn't even care (obvious of all the previous owners not dealing with it), but its been bugging me. Fear of what it would cost to fix these things plays heavy, as I said, I dont want to be balls deep under on the "value"

 

I know the car will never be super nice, I get that. And I wanted something I wouldn't be afraid to drive anywhere. But I sit back and look at for sale ads and get the "grass in greener on other side of the fence" a lot.

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build quality in old cars is generally terrible as compared to today. Age doesn't make it better. The thing about old cars is they look great but they are kind of a test as to how much bullshit you are willing to put up with.

 

Honestly, door alignment isn't a hard job at all, but while you are in there you might as well do the hinges since they were never meant to last this long.

 

Fixing the slow will make it way more fun, but you are right it does become a money pit after a while. Have you thought about gears? that might fix some of the slow, at least the off the line slow.

 

none of these muscle cars were ever really "fast" without work put into them.

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I had a '69 Dart for a few years that looked great and ran awesome, but it was still a 45+ year old vehicle. I probably got more compliments on that car than anything I've ever owned, yet I drove it the least. In the end, the desire for "modern reliability" won and I sold it. I was talking with a friend about it shortly after selling it, and he said something that seemed to ring true.

 

"Old cars are fucking awesome as long as your name's not on the title"

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Like Kerry said, swap the rear end gears to 3.55 or 3.73 will make the car quick off the line and add some zip to it. While at it add the traction lock differential to it. You might be able to find a rear end already done which may save you some $$.
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I think its more in the motor and trans are tired than needing gear help. Drives fine, just makes like 100 HP and shifts at 2900 RPM.

 

Found some 393's for sale locally. That would be sweet, but would pretty much require a built trans, rear, exhaust and some fuel. And after all that, it leaves me with 4 wheel drum. lol. Kind of why I am like, do I really want to go there?

 

https://columbus.craigslist.org/pts/d/nice-ford-351-windsor-stroked/6554350063.html

I have actually met this guy when he was driving his Fairmont.

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These last few comments are exactly why we haven't pushed hard to make the Galaxie sitting out back go away. Eventually when we clear off our own plates we'll make it into something cool. Big oldschool with some solid punch beats a Ford Fusion in style points every day :)
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I think its more in the motor and trans are tired than needing gear help. Drives fine, just makes like 100 HP and shifts at 2900 RPM.

 

Are the Ford auto transmissions built like GM transmissions? On my TH400 in the GTO I have an adjustable shift modulator that I can just turn a screw on and adjust the shift points. The car also came with a factory ratcheting shifter (Called the dual gate) that when I used to drive the car regularly I used often to shift myself. Just getting a swap meet used B&M hydro stick would probably increase your driving enjoyment a lot. Old muscle cars are rarely cars you just want to put it in D and drive on the street - you gotta work a little for your speed.

 

 

Found some 393's for sale locally. That would be sweet, but would pretty much require a built trans, rear, exhaust and some fuel. And after all that, it leaves me with 4 wheel drum. lol. Kind of why I am like, do I really want to go there?

 

https://columbus.craigslist.org/pts/d/nice-ford-351-windsor-stroked/6554350063.html

I have actually met this guy when he was driving his Fairmont.

 

What trans do you have? A stock C4 with fresh fluid and filters should be able to take between 350-400hp depending on how worn out it is and whether you are launching it at the track on slicks every weekend or just going deep in the pedal pulling away from a light. If your car was a v8 factory car your rear should be a 9" too so even without a track-lok and decent gears it will still be pretty stout and take a pretty good shock load. Even with the 8" rear that the 6cyl and lo-po v-8s came with should be good for around 350hp and 350 ft/lbs of torque, and there are rebuild kits for it that will push that number much higher.

 

Honestly, C4's are so cheap and unwanted that you could eat them like potato chips and still not equal the cost of a "built" c6 or Aod.

 

The problem with drums isn't stopping power - it's repeated stopping power once it's hot. They fade over time. If they haven't been beat on they should be able to lock the tires no problem. The down side is that they take some work to adjust to balance them but once dialed in it eliminates that "left...right...stop" feeling of old cars where the brakes are pulling it all different directions. Also, you probably get like 3-5 panic stops out of the drums before you'll start to notice the fade to the point where it's time to service the shoes.

 

Been reading articles recently about guys putting 8.8 fox mustang rears into classic mustangs. It requires welding leaf spring perches to the housing but the width is within a fraction of an inch of the 9" in your car stock, and if you source it right you can get LSD, rear discs, and decent ratio (I would go 3.55) for less than the cost of upgrades to your stock rear end.

 

Stock your axle ratio is likely to be 2.79 or 3.00 (those were the most popular ratios, but 2.50 was also available) which isn't gonna peel the skin off rancid milk when you dig into it. Also, it's estimated only about 5% of 60's mustangs were ordered with some from of LSD so it's probably an open diff which just doesn't help at all.

 

FWIW, going to 3.55 gears (with an Auburn Posi) in my GTO from 3.08 was probably the best improvement to driving enjoyment I made to the car. Because I drove it on the highway regularly and didn't want to swap to a 200-R4 OD trans 3.55 was about my limit for gears, but off the line the car woke up and laid two sets of tracks any time I got on it.

Edited by Geeto67
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