Chrysler 360 front oil leak?

[zeitgeist57]

My family and I have been enjoying our '75 Dodge RV, had a beautiful weekend at Dillon State Park a few days ago. One more campout and then it'll be time to winterize.

 

Any old school Mopar guys familar with the Chrysler LA 360 engine? It's been rebuilt before but at just over 100k miles there is an oil leak that's coming from the front of the engine. It has a significant drip when it's sitting, and driving it long distances will actually "consume" (lose) a good amount of oil. I just keep it topped off but long term it would be nice not to leave a dinner-plate-sized oil spill pattern everywhere.

 

I would love for someone to check it out, or I can drive it somewhere. No rush on this, but if any of you guys have 360 LA experience please let me know.

 

Offhand, it looks to me like the timing chain cover or front of the oil pan gasket? The top of the engine, exhaust, and belt drives are good and dry (slight valve cover weep) but the block is oily wet and it drips on the steering/sway bar/suspension pieces below.

[TimTaylor751647545500]

Front main seal maybe?

[Geeto67]

check your PCV valve isn't plugged up. a buildup of crank case pressure is going to force oil to look for any way it can get out. I had a lot of friends with small block mopars and usually an oil leak was the first sign of a blocked pcv.

 

after that, check the timing cover and pan gaskets as those are the usual culprits.

 

Honestly, this winter you should look for the most rotted 90's 5.9L dodge that still runs well and motor/trans swap that old van to the magnum 360 (5.9L). It's basically just a metric LA engine, and you'll get FI and overdrive.

[zeitgeist57]

I did see that from quick online research, especially an A-Body forum: I thought the PCV valve was open but I'll double check.

 

The RV did come with a used Holley Pro-Jection EFI system that was at least 15-20 years old...P.O. installed it for a trip to Alaska and back and he switched back to the 2BBL carb. I sold it...the EFI really isn't adding much power. Plus, the A727 already has a GearVendors OD bolted to the back of it. Good though though, Kerry.

[10phone2]

pay kerry to do the swap. guy is insanely knowledgeable and can get it done.

[Geeto67]

pay kerry to do the swap. guy is insanely knowledgeable and can get it done.

 

a) I am buried under my own projects.

 

b) clay knows I am a hack.

 

that said, the 5.9 magnum that was in my 98 grand cherokee was enough to tow my GTO and then some. 245hp and 345 ft/lbs made that jeep fun. way quicker than my buddy's 68 satelitte with the 360. I think those smog era mills are somewhere around 175hp. It's not just the FI, it's the cam, the exhaust manifolds, and various other parts 20 years of development take. When I researched it to put into my YJ I think I just needed headers and magnum engine mounts, the magnum uses the same trans bolt pattern as the LA engine. If you want to fall down that rabbit hole this is the place to start: http://www.magnumswap.com/

[zeitgeist57]

Since we're OT...

 

Watch especially at the 6 minute mark. Richard Holdener is testing an almost exact copy of my engine ('75 Tradesman van).

 

I've got longtube headers with dual Borla exhaust, no cats. Pretty much the only limit on my RV is the 2BBL, but at 72-74MPH in OD I'm turning 3000rpms...about the max torque at 350+ ft/lbs. It's more responsive at those speeds than lugging around 55-62MPH at low 2000's RPMS. I've put over 3k miles on it since June and the power is very acceptable for the price I paid.

 

I'm never turning more than 3300-3500, so any cost associated with an engine swap - let alone even a 4BBL - is not worth another 20hp/20ft.lbs in my mind. The thing is a 10+ft tall brick...it's not going faster than 75-80mph. It can go faster, but at that point I'm concerned about handling and braking, let alone I'm doing 9MPG at those highway speeds...

 

OR...I'll go 4BBL before I go engine swap. :thumbup:

[Geeto67]

The value of FI isn't horsepower, it's consistency, economy, reliability, and longevity. because it is consistent and self adjusting within a limited range it does allow you to get away with performance mods that on a carbed car would otherwise be harder to live with.

 

Carbs are basically just a toilet for fuel, as much as we like to pretend all those needles and jets make it a precise instrument of fuel delivery, they are still pretty imprecise and subject to temp, barometric, and altitude changes.

 

either way as long as you are happy with your van, that's all that matters. A later evolution of the same engine brings things like a 1 piece oil pan gasket over the LA's 4 piece one, and small details like that. It's just a suggestion though.

[-Alex-]

They have a tendency to leak at the front of the pan, where it meets the timing cover. I’d say the safest option is to drop the pan, make sure the flange is flat all around, and put a one piece gasket on it with some silicone in the corners where they’re prone to leak.

[zeitgeist57]

LOL...RockAuto seems to be stuck in the '70s with the 4-pc gasket.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1975,cb300,5.9l+360cid+v8,1078163,engine,oil+pan+gasket,5436