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Tips to increase MPG?


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When I was driving my 91 Toyota Tercel, I'd hypermile it. It was a stick shift so I could pop it out of gear, turn off the car and coast for a while. A few spots I know of I could coast for 2-3 miles. Then just start it using the clutch, no wear on the starter. 45-50 mpg.

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When I was driving my 91 Toyota Tercel, I'd hypermile it. It was a stick shift so I could pop it out of gear, turn off the car and coast for a while. A few spots I know of I could coast for 2-3 miles. Then just start it using the clutch, no wear on the starter. 45-50 mpg.

Shittygsxr and I discuss this sometimes. Also referred to as "coast and burn" i believe. I've seen 27mpg on the highway from this in my trailblazer

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Shittygsxr and I discuss this sometimes. Also referred to as "coast and burn" i believe. I've seen 27mpg on the highway from this in my trailblazer

usually i just find a big hill and start going down it for momentum...once im rolling i put my truck in N and shut it off

once i near the bottom the hill, i hop out of my truck and i run behind it and start pushing it.....the extra momentum gained from the hill is enough for me to get a steady 2mph roll pushing everywhere i need to go from then on

i average about 3,750 mpg doing it this way.....and thats with a diesel truck - eat your hearts out prius-fuckers

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A ton of stuff on your rig is just useless weight. Get it all off there, and your mileage will increase. I suggest a chop saw and a good day's time.

11_sduty_frame.jpg

It'll feel like your motorcycle in a way. Think of it as a 4-wheel Can-Am that can pull shit.

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It's possible to get 30mpg from a chevy small block. But the harder you try, the more it costs in mods. Basically it's making improvements to the torque output. A real nice hot spark, headers with a big bore single exhaust, edelbrock manifold... you know, stuff...

oh and a very good air filter. Maximum air flow at all times.

I second checking the oxygen sensor. If it's old, big improvement replacing it.

edit: I've actually gotten a small improvement just re packing the wheel bearings...

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Not sure. It doesn't have any dummy lights on, so I would assume they are ok, but who knows.

The best way I know to test the Os sensor is with a lab scope, to make sure it have lot's of activity, and a fast response. Back in the day, the O2 sensor didn't do squat compared to th eimpact they have on how the vehicle runs these days!

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Bad idea. Lose power breaks and steering while driving?

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Unless you plan on making a sudden high speed U-turn, what do you need power steering for?

Plus there's enough pressure in the brake system to give you one good stop. So don't waste it.

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I'm gonna have to call :bs: on this. The aerodynamics of most modern vehicles is optimized for 55-65 MPH. To run 35, you're going to be in town, or lot's of stop and go, which will kill mileage. My 13 yr old Intrepid with 202,000+ on the clock will get close to 30 MPG on the highway, running about 70 MPH. Taking the back roads to work, keeping the speed down around 45, I get more like 23 MPG. As said earlier in the post that I quoted, it IS all about momentum.

It has very little to do with aerodynamics, and more to do with how hard the engine is working. Your intrepid gets 30mpg on the freeway at 70 because you're near an optimum gearing. If you were doing 55mph, you'd probably get closer to 40.

35mph without having to stop, with the engine in a higher gear means the engine is barely above idle. So it isn't really working, and therefore doesn't need much gas.

Shell got 376 mpg with a 1959 Opel

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hello troll, i see you have found this thread.

I forgot that if an opinion on something differs from yours it's automatically wrong.

My fault.

Guys, can't you see the sarcasm in DORIFTO's post? He was just joking around. You guys are too serious in the mornings. Geesh.

Thanks, although the turning off the car thing actually does work.

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I installed a K&N cold air intake in my Ram 2500 5.7 and it boosted the mpg to 14 from 12. Darn truck still gets 14mpg up hill, down hill, city or highway. Lowest I've seen was 8mpg hauling a 22ft camper through back roads in WV up and down hills. I'm just thankful it is not my daily driver.

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It has very little to do with aerodynamics, and more to do with how hard the engine is working. Your intrepid gets 30mpg on the freeway at 70 because you're near an optimum gearing. If you were doing 55mph, you'd probably get closer to 40.

35mph without having to stop, with the engine in a higher gear means the engine is barely above idle. So it isn't really working, and therefore doesn't need much gas.

Shell got 376 mpg with a 1959 Opel

I thought we were talking real world though. :dunno:

Most places where the speed limit is 35 MPH, there's not enough distance between stops to to cruise enough to offset to amount of fuel burnt by accelerating to get up to speed.

Lower RPM's does not necessarily equal less fuel consumption. If the engine makes a big amount of torque in the lower RPM range, it will. More power doesn't necessarily mean more fuel consumption, either. It's all about combustion efficiency.

On aerodynamics. Which is going to make the engine work harder? A van that's practically throwing a brick into the wind, or a sports car that's optimized to cut through the wind. To answer this, while driving down the road, open your window, stick your hand out. Start with the palm vertical to the ground, representing the van, then put it horizontal, parallel to the ground, representing the sports car. Which one makes you exert more force to keep your arm straight? Am I way out in left field on this?

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I thought we were talking real world though. :dunno:

Most places where the speed limit is 35 MPH, there's not enough distance between stops to to cruise enough to offset to amount of fuel burnt by accelerating to get up to speed.

Lower RPM's does not necessarily equal less fuel consumption. If the engine makes a big amount of torque in the lower RPM range, it will. More power doesn't necessarily mean more fuel consumption, either. It's all about combustion efficiency.

On aerodynamics. Which is going to make the engine work harder? A van that's practically throwing a brick into the wind, or a sports car that's optimized to cut through the wind. To answer this, while driving down the road, open your window, stick your hand out. Start with the palm vertical to the ground, representing the van, then put it horizontal, parallel to the ground, representing the sports car. Which one makes you exert more force to keep your arm straight? Am I way out in left field on this?

You're right on the real world, which is why I also suggested areas where you can do 35 without too many stops. Tough, I agree, but doable.

Fuel consumption, torque, and power are three very different things, that aren't always related. All I'm saying is that the closer to idle you can keep your car while driving, the more efficient it will be. Especially if you can keep it at a consistent speed, like you've pointed out.

At most driving speeds, aerodynamics don't matter. The difference between a van and a car is like the difference between a brick on it's side and a brick standing up. There are a few exceptions (the Honda Insight or late 90s Ford Taurus), but most cars are not really designed to move through the air as efficiently as they could be. Even sports cars are designed to force the car down onto the ground, not move the car smoothly through the air.

All I'm saying, is drive the truck 55mph and turn the radio up so you can't hear the angry motorists.

Then flip them off when they're filling up at the next gas station...

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I bought this truck to tow and haul people and gear. Its not readable to hypermile in those situations. I started this thread looking for ideas to get maximum tune without spending hundreds of dollars which defeats the purpose of saving money.

I already have $55 in plugs and 8 little 6" long wires are gonna set me back the same. What else can be done without breaking the bank?

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