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Rear brake locked up while riding?????


DoughnuT

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If this isn't in the right spot, sorry. Move if need be.

I have no idea what the hell has caused this, but I am hoping others have had this problem and can help with it.

Was riding the 600 down the road, and out of the blue the bike started bogging down, and then the rear locked up on me at about 30mph. Bike started back up, and wouldn't move. Managed to get the wheel to free up by rocking the bike back and forth, got to the side of the road, and started looking to see what was going on. Noticed the rotor was hotter than hell, and a lite smoke coming from it. Also noticed that while it was hot, I had no "pedal" for the rear. It was like the spring was gone, even though it was there.

Had someone come with a trailer, and pulled the bike home. Looked a little more when I rolled into the garage, and had rear brakes after the bike cooled down. Looked at the alignment of the rear tire, to make sure it hadn't moved in anyway, and as far as I can tell seems to be even. Chain is rather tight now for some reason.

I am going to drain the fluid, refill, and bleed. Take the caliper off and inspect it, and check to make sure the rotor is okay.

Anything else I need to look into? What are the chances that the output rod from the transmission is messed up? You can hear that the chain or sprockets are messed up when the bike rolls now, so I am curious.

All help would be grateful.

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If the drivetrain didn't make any racket before this problem, sounds to me like your rear axle shifted some. Usually front to back isn't a problem since the caliper mount should float with the axle, but more than likely it's side to side binding that would cause this problem.

:edit: Oh, and yeah this should've been posted in the "Tech and Tips" section.......no biggie, just FYI. Definitely try to adjust your rear axle and ensure that's where the problem is (I'm thinking it is)........after everthings lined up right, torque that axle nut to about 90-100 ftlb.......while it's apart though, I'd check that rear rotor for runout too since it sounds like it may have possibly warped from the excess heat.......post up your findings and good luck!!

Edited by Hellmutt
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Your output shaft is probably ok, typically the seal will distort and leak engine oil if the chains overtightened briefly - I've never seen an output shaft bent that wasn't severely leaking........so take a look behind the sprocket for any signs of oil bleeding out.

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I'm going to guess that the rear brake fluid had a little water or air in it, and expanded in the heat. That would give a spongy rear brake pedal, as well as expanding and activating the brake. Maybe.

Not sure about the chain and sprocket noise, but if the rear brake locked up that hard, maybe the rear axle did move to the rear, and over tighten the chain.

Not worried about the output shaft, they are very strong. And if it was bent, there would probably be a noticeable vibration from it.

edit: ok, take two. If the rear caliper stuck open or on, you wouldn't have much rear brake pedal, it would feel spongy, nothing but return spring mostly. I stuck one by hitting the rear brake really hard on the freeway. I felt it dragging all the way home. I kicked the rear caliper mount on it's swing arm slide, and it freed up. It was stuck. No clue how or why it would stick. I'm guessing a tiny amount of grit jammed it. I pulled the assemby off, cleaned and checked it, and put on a light coat of high temp lube, on the part of the caliper that slides on the swing arm mount. Or something similar, preferably a dry something that won't collect dirt. A dry Teflon spray works well.

Edited by ReconRat
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[quote name=DoughnuT;698767

I am going to drain the fluid' date=' refill, and bleed. Take the caliper off and inspect it, and check to make sure the rotor is okay.

CLEAN the caliper while you have it out.

take out the pistons and clean them, clean the bores, clean the seals.

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Haven't been able to work on the bike yet. I have had some family issues to take care of before I get to this issue.

I have got a like new caliper coming, just in case there is something wrong with the current one. The bike was stolen a few years back, so there may be a blemish in part of the caliper. Rather be safe and know I have everything I need before tearing into it. Hard to pass up on a complete ready to bolt on caliper for 25 dollars, that is being guaranteed to be in working order.

I believe though, that if it is cleaned, and new fluids with a bleed job, it will be fine. Not a whole lot to this part of the bike. Also going to check the master cylinder, and hoses to make sure they are all in working order.

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Changed the caliper, and seems to be doing fine. One of the pins seized up when it got hot.

Now I have to look into the "clink" I am getting from the chain. I think I may have a fuzed link now, which sucks because the chain was only a couple of months old.

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