fz1 transmission rebuild project thread...

[mello dude]

It was a pretty smooth swap. I've put about a mile on it since completion and it shifts 150% better. Smooth and crisp. No slop. The engine all together runs 100% better than the previous also. The throttle response is much more crisp, easier starting, quieter. Sounds excellent. This engine was claimed at having 7,906 miles on it, and as smooth as it runs/shifts. I'm guessing thats exactly whats on it.

What were the miles on the original?

[Helmutt]

^^ Believe he told me the orginal engine was around 30k miles - good bit of it was hard track riding too, so surely that new engine has to make it feel like a completely dfferent machine!

[82packer]

Nice to here your swap went smoothly.

[Anden]

Hell yeah. Nicely done.

[oldschoolsdime92]

original engine had 27,xxx. It spent alot of time on the track. Here she is at barber

The new engine sounds different even. Its quieter, smoother, more responsive. shifting is solid. The low end power is even considerably different. I think the other engine, in the end of it all is probably going to need to be freshened up, if not full rebuild. Now I need to get a 2000-2005 r1 shift arm. I do seem to have a tiny coolant seep, but I will address that here after I look at the micro fische on the parts end of things. Hopefully since I don't ride hard, I won't end up with a similar second gear issue down the road but if/when I will address it then.

Edited February 26, 2012 by oldschoolsdime92

[snot]

nice....that was quick.

[oldschoolsdime92]

It seems to be seeping just ever so slightly right around the housing that you drain the coolant from. I checked the coolant drain plug, its tight. Theres also an allen head bolt that goes into the block that holds the hard coolant line . Its tight. It seems to be seeping around that general area. Does anyone have any insight?

[oldschoolsdime92]

[oldschoolsdime92]

After a bunch of texts with granda, and alittle head scratching I decided to investigate with the old engine. Things like this eat me up until I figure it out.

Heres what I discovered- It can't be coolant. Its either residual oil from my oil change, OR its an oil leak. That is a hard coolant line ,that runs through the oil pan, to the water pump inside. There is a seal on the hardline for the water pump, and if that were bad, I would have coolant in my oil. Not the case as of now. There is a red seal, thats an oil seal. Either the red seal is leaking, or when I pulled the oil filter off, residual oil collected.

[oldschoolsdime92]

yeah andy rode the living piss out of that thing.

the first gen R6 (99-02)were known for a 2nd gear issue as well. yamaha used only 3 dogs on the gears. in 03 they added 2 more for a total of 5 and no one had issues since.

I some how over looked your post. Your not the first person to tell me that about its previous rider. He sent me some great videos of him riding actually. Excellent rider. I will be retiring this ol race horse, and she will make an excellent sport tourer, and now that she has a new heart, with my riding it should be good forever. I also have read that quite a few times about the dogs,so I suppose if i do end up having the issue with this engine, I will be swapping the trans parts. With 7900 miles I hope thats a long time down the road!

[snot]

If it was me I would clean it really good, replace the seals and then check to see if its leaking.

[oldschoolsdime92]

If it was me I would clean it really good, replace the seals and then check to see if its leaking.

you read my mind. I am actually going to flush the coolant and change the oil after a few hundred miles, since I don't know exactly how long the engine has sat. When I do this, I am also going to change the seal.

[oldschoolsdime92]

I put about 50 miles on it today. It runs/shifts better than ever.No second gear issue,and it runs flawlessly It seems to have much more power than the 27k engine that was removed. I couldn't be happier.

[fazer1sniper]

Awesome, oldschool, glad it worked out!

[oldschoolsdime92]

It wasn't bad. I'm still slightly intimidated by the transmission on the other engine, but I've read enough and looked at enough pictures that I feel I can certainly do it. I work on a lot.of things, I just have never been.insida motorcycle transmission. Thanks pauly for the kind words!

[max power]

So, when does the trans rebuild start?

[Helmutt]

^^Probably when the grin wears off his face from the new found love in the bike again.......so........maybe in 5 or 6 months?

[oldschoolsdime92]

So, when does the trans rebuild start?

probably next winter, after my wedding!

Could a mod please change the title of my thread to engine swap??

[Turbotom09]

Hey Brandt!

[oldschoolsdime92]

Hey Brandt!

Turbo tom! Glad you made it buddy!

[serpentracer]

sweet to see you got it all squared away and it's better than ever! ps I think andy is one of those guys who always used rotella....just sayin.

Edited March 3, 2012 by serpentracer

[oldschoolsdime92]

I have a few reciepts for amsoil, but I've never personally met Andy. I got it.from Dave bannister, and there's was def rotella in the bike when I got it.

[serpentracer]

maybe andy did use amsoil. I was almost positive he used rotella. just curious of how much more wear it causes using it vs a oil specifically for high reving engines.

[oldschoolsdime92]

There was only a couple receipts, but I also have paper work for a Honda atv that came in the mountain of.papers that came with the bike.its really hard telling. I personally feel rotella can't handle the high rpms. Diesel engines are low reving, and sport bike engines are not. I use mobile 1 4t or valvoline motorcycle oil and an oem filter.

[Helmutt]

Not sure if the Rotella your talking about is the standard diesel formula Shell 15w40 Rotella or something else, but should be fine to run if you dont rev limit or redline the engine regularly. My last Yamaha recommended Yamalube 20w50 motorcycle oil, which seemed thick to me but in the summer heat it was fine......wouldnt run it in the colder months though. The old engine at 27k, I'm wagering the Rotella would benefit the looser tolerances, but in the fresher engine I'd run a lighter synthetic to help keep it alive that much longer -- this is simply my logical opinion, I have absolutely no intentions on starting another oil thread:D:D:D