JStump Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Spent Saturday at my parents house building this thing and have to say, I am quite impressed in the quality for how much I spent on it. In total with the wheel chock, trailer, plywood and random nuts and bolts it came out to around $330 with tax.The only issue I had with it is the grounding system. It does not work at all. The ground wire attaches at the neck of the trailer, but since it fold into 3 pieces, it is not a solid ground and relies on the connections between the pivot points to send the ground through out the entire trailer. Well those points are painted and do have metal to metal contact so the tail lights only kind work, any movement on the trailer would make them flicker. Had to run a ground wire to each light to ensure they would always work. But thats only a minor issue and easily fixed so overall I am happy with the trailer. My one question though is how do you guys strap down your bikes in the front? I have never done it with the plastics on this bike so when I did today I noticed the plastics under the handlebars gets pressed on when you run the strap around the top of the fork tube as you can see in the picture. Is there a better way of doing this so I do not crack the fairing when I tighten them down. Also, how far do you compress the forks when you strap the bike down? I am afraid of going to tight for some reason thinking it might blow out the fork. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jporter12 Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 My one question though is how do you guys strap down your bikes in the front? I have never done it with the plastics on this bike so when I did today I noticed the plastics under the handlebars gets pressed on when you run the strap around the top of the fork tube as you can see in the picture. Is there a better way of doing this so I do not crack the fairing when I tighten them down. Here's one option that some on here use:http://www.canyondancer.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JStump Posted April 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Thats exactly what I need! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hutch Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Thats exactly what I need!Get to the pony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyler524 Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Thats exactly what I need!I just run straps from the rear forward and no front straps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JStump Posted April 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Get to the ponyToo late, just ordered them lolI just run straps from the rear forward and no front strapsYou trust a wheel chock that much that you don't use straps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyler524 Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 You trust a wheel chock that much that you don't use straps?I have them on the rear pulling the bike towards the chock. It is in there good and isn't coming out. The bike is solid as can be and i run the rear straps throigg the swing arm so the suspension isn't compressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Butters Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 you shouldnt strap down a bike with your kickstand down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jporter12 Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 you shouldnt strap down a bike with your kickstand down NOW you tell me! Nobody told me that a few years ago when I got my Hon-duh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JStump Posted April 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 you shouldnt strap down a bike with your kickstand downThat was just to keep the bike from falling over while checked the wheel chock. Didn't quite trust it to hold the bike at first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2talltim Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 got my canyondancer on egay for half of IP price...i feel the one with the cups on the ends is better but some will disagree Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bad324 Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 got my canyondancer on egay for half of IP price...i feel the one with the cups on the ends is better but some will disagreethe cup IS better because you won't ruin your grips. the cup IS NOT better on an open trailer because if you get stuck in heavy downpours the water likes to stay in the cup. I'm sure a simple drilling of a hole could fix it, I just decided to upgrade to an enclosed trailer to fix it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JStump Posted April 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 (edited) I just sold that same trailer. I fixed the ground issue by running wires straight to the bulbs. I never attached power to the marker lights and only used them as lenses/reflectors.Well I ran the ground to the nut that holds the light onto the trailer on each side. Seems to have worked for now. As for the marker lights, I could care less about. They seem to work if the back lights work so they may be ok.Also thinking about painting the deck red with a while stripe down the middle, possibly the other way around. Or white with a big Triumph decal from abdecal across the middle. Edited April 30, 2012 by JStump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 hmm... I've never had this ground issue. Or maybe I just haven't noticed. I did have to drill-out the little ground hole to get the wire actually touching metal though. And I think i've stepped on the harness and pulled my ground wire out about 5 times. But that's my fault more than the trailers.If you want it to fold a little more, leave a slightly larger gap in the wood at the joint. half an inch on each side makes it fold a LOT more.I just removed and staggered the bolts on the front half (so the heads won't hit the ones on the back half) and even that helps quite a bit.I also rigged a hinge so my license plate folds down when the trailer is folded. gets it a solid 4" closer to the wall, which doesn't sound like much until you're trying to work on the bike in the winter with the trailer folded between teh bike and the wall... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JStump Posted April 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Well the bolts hitting would be an issue if I didn't have the wheel chock on there. But the wheel chock stops it before the bolts do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
standout Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 They make removable wheel chocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bad324 Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 They make removable wheel chocks.hell harbor freight makes a cheap removable kit for their chock too (which is the one it looks like he has) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JStump Posted May 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 hell harbor freight makes a cheap removable kit for their chock too (which is the one it looks like he has)I didn't see anything like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyler524 Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 I didn't see anything like that.The whole chock unbolts from the base plate. There are I believe four button head cap screws that hold it down that you can unbolt and leave the base mounted to the trailer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bad324 Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 maybe it was TSC? I can't remember now but I know I saw something that would work for that chock. I remember looking when I had my 5x8 trailer then scored my Baxley on the cheap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2talltim Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 or do my removable chock idea http://www.ohioriders.net/showthread.php?t=90490 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JStump Posted May 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 The whole chock unbolts from the base plate. There are I believe four button head cap screws that hold it down that you can unbolt and leave the base mounted to the trailerI don't remember seeing that on mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyler524 Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 or do my removable chock idea http://www.ohioriders.net/showthread.php?t=90490+1 I did this for the wheel chock and put e track in my trailer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyler524 Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 You can see them in this picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JStump Posted May 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 You can see them in this pictureThose are removable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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