fixing up an old street bike - help w/ my list

[redkow97]

Looking at a '96 F3 that has clearly sat for a number of years, and before I make an offer, I'm trying to figure out exactly how much it's going to cost to get road-worthy.

I KNOW it will need:

- battery ($60)

- Oil (negligible)

- coolant flush (negligible)

- tires ($115 for a Q2 front, and I have a take-off rear that will be fine for a while)

- carb clean ($15 in supplies and quite a bit of time?)

I assume it will need, or could really use:

- new plugs ($12?)

- new plug wires ($???)

- air filter

- brake pads(?)

What else would go to shit on a bike that has sat?

I'd like to keep my "get it running well, and safe to be ridden" budget under $300. Doable, assuming my tire price is accurate?

Also, I probably need to check for rust in the tank. How much should I run away screaming if I find it, or how much should I knock off my offer if that's the case?

[twowheelsnake]

Replace the brake lines. Carb seals (you mentioned), and the outer case seals for clutch and stator depending on how long it was sitting

[redkow97]

I'd probably throw stainless brake lines on as one of my first upgrades, so I hadn't really considered that, but good thought.

I have not torn into carbs before, but I know it's a tedious process. What kind of expenses are involved though?

why would the clutch and stator seals deteriorate if the engine has oil in it? I would probably just use silicone gasket builder to replace that stuff, if it was even an issue.

Because I have never done any kind of "restore" project before, I'll take any advice I can get there as well, but my inclination is:

1) check tank for rust. If rust is found, don't even crank the bike. If not, continue to step 2.

2) drain gas and only use as weed killer or to start bon fire.

3) warm engine case with space heater, and drain as much oil as possible over-night

4) refill engine with decent oil (for temporary use)

5) flush coolant

6) run bike for a few minutes on new gas

7) do a 'real' oil and filter change

Hopefully enjoy the fact that the bike is running well, and start tackling stuff like:

8) mount new tires

9) take bike apart and clean the hell out of carbs and everything else I happen along on the way (air filter, etc.)

10) start making cosmetic mods to get the bike looking as I intend (dirt bars, vapor gauges, circular headlight, etc.)

11) replace fork springs and rebuild forks. install racetech cartridge emulators if I can find them for cheap

12) rebuild rear shock w/ stiffer spring.

And that's probably about it, but I'm sure there will be bumps along the way. Oh, and paint, but that will just happen somewhere between running and all the cosmetic stuff.

[imprez55]

For an air filter you will be looking at around $50, wires might be around $30 and for the brakes it will be a little less than $90 for all of them but you might be able to get away with just $50 for the fronts. One of my big no-no's is rust in a gas tank unless I plan on replacing it or something similar. I really hate dealing with the process of cleaning it out and coating the inside just to leave you wondering if its fully coated or if it is going to stay. With that said, I had good experience with KBS Coatings and their gas tank kit which was like another $50. If you are lenient with your budget then you could do it for that, I always make sure I can go 20% out of any budget and still be happy. The little things that might bite you are gas and coolant lines which could be brittle by now and some electrical wires (it would be time more the money there). With my estimates I am coming up with about $375 (battery $60, coolant $20, oil+filter $30, spark plugs $12, ignition coil wires $30, brakes $50, air filter $50, tire $115, carb cleaner $6).

[redkow97]

well, full disclosure, I'm looking to pick up the bike for $500-$650, depending on the mileage and how much really needs to be done.

There will always been things I can't anticipate, but I figure I'm getting out for under $1300 even with a worst-case scenario.

[jester3681]

I'd do brakes before I did plugs and wires. Replace the pads, really inspect the caliper seals, replace the lines and fluid. Replace the clutch fluid if it's hydraulic. All hydraulic (brake) fluid is hygroscopic and will absorb water (and other contaminants) over time. Not using them makes this worse. Broken down fluid = brake fade = OUCH...

If the change of fluids and rebuild/clean of the carbs gets the bike to run, I wouldn't stress about plugs yet...

Also, side note - one of the CXs I worked on had sat for a bit and the coolant had congealed. I had to take the water pump off to get to something anyways and caught it, but it may be work opening things up if it's easy to do so. At least run some water through the radiator or any other places you can.

[natedogg624]

check the carb boots as well. not sure specifically for the f3, but the old r6 had rubber boots that connected the carb bank to the engine. if these boots had the slightest cracking it would create vacuum problems.

[Gixxus Christ!]

Where it sat is going to be a good indication of the work you will be doing. If it was in a garage, I would replace all fluids, clean carbs (not really much work) and check brake and gas lines for weathering.

If it sat outside you're looking at possible damage to plastics and wiring by rodents, possible rodent dwellings throughout the bike, exhaust and intakes full of dust, spiders, misc. Detritus, rotten rubber lines and seals, coolant turning into muddy rust etc....I helped a buddy restore a zook intruder that had sat outside for 4 years and ran into all these problems. Even after a carb clean and fresh gas it took cranking the motor for I'd say 15-20 minutes before it finally fired, and it took hours of running before it had stopped blowing black smoke from all the garbage in the motor/exhaust.

Good luck with your project, the f3 was a great bike.

[redkow97]

Pics suggest the battery died, someone tried to remove or replace it, gave up, and it sat in a garage since.

Hoping to get info on last time it ran from the current owner.

[oldschoolsdime92]

I had one of these for my first bike. Rock solid. Mine was a 96 also, with 43,000 miles on it when I sold it. The regulator/rectifiers are junk. They are plastic and don't have any heat sinks on them. I would check into that if it had a battery issue. It was pretty quick, and handled decent. I really enjoyed mine. I can post a few pics if you'd like.

As far as the carbs go, take lots of pictures, use bike bandit for diagrams, and be as careful as you have ever been. cbrforum.com's f3 section was gobs and gobs of help to me.

Edited October 10, 2012 by oldschoolsdime92

[Helmutt]

May be a good idea to carry a fresh battery and some tools with you to check the start circuit and ensure the engine will at least roll over. Would suck to get it home and find it seized or worse. Hope its in order and an easy fix for you.

[redkow97]

I had one of these for my first bike. Rock solid. Mine was a 96 also, with 43,000 miles on it when I sold it. The regulator/rectifiers are junk. They are plastic and don't have any heat sinks on them. I would check into that if it had a battery issue. It was pretty quick, and handled decent. I really enjoyed mine. I can post a few pics if you'd like.

my first track bike was a '93 F2, so I'm familiar with the chassis; the F3 engine was just a tad stronger, and the forks were valved better.

Good info on the regulator/rectifier though. That, and the cam-chain tensioner are the two major things I'm planning on replacing before they fail, or having a spare on hand...

I also plan to gear this bike so that it's a little more hooligan and not so much on top-speed. I figure 135 or so is enough for the street.

[max power]

If that bike goes 135 stock i'll be quite impressed.

Plan to rebuild the carb. Sitting with old gas will trash all the rubber in it.

If the tank has a little rust, seal it. A lotta rust, replace.

Cables are easy cheesy.

[ohiomike]

Before ripping and tearing into it, get a good service manual. Then determine if you can readily get parts for it.

[redkow97]

If that bike goes 135 stock i'll be quite impressed.

My F2 would absolutely destroy an SV650 once we hit 4th gear on the back straight at Mid-Ohio, so I would be inclined to believe it could do 140+ with stock gearing.

Granted, I will likely be removing fairings, and going -1/+2 with gearing, so the additional drag and loss of top-end may drop me below 130 as a top speed, but I think it will be well worth it to gain the acceleration advantage.

I'll do the math before replacing the gearing though. Still, I can't foresee needing to do much more than a buck twenty unless I'm at the track.

[redkow97]

Before ripping and tearing into it, get a good service manual. Then determine if you can readily get parts for it.

I had an F2 service manual and shopped parts for that bike a few times. The biggest shortage seemed to be with forks themselves.

When bikes are wrecked, that's one of the commonly broken parts. On top of that, F3 forks are very desireable for F2 race bikes, so there's twice the demand.

Otherwise eBay should have pretty much anything else I'll need, and because people still race F3's in WERA, there's a steady supply of performance and stock parts for sale there.

[TheBrown57]

For carbs do a Pinesol soak over night to clean em really good if they are really bad. Guy on the 454ltd forum I was on did his and they turned out great!

[redkow97]

I see expenses and work piling up already...

The seller hasn't returned my follow-up email since I confirmed the bike was even available, so this may all be premature.

Even so, the plan remains F2/F3/F4 streetfighter project, so I'm likely to encounter the same or similar issues with any bike from that era.

I'll even consider an old Zx6 or ZZR600 for the right price. Would have to be later 90's or early 200's though.

[ohiomike]

I had an F2 service manual and shopped parts for that bike a few times. The biggest shortage seemed to be with forks themselves.

When bikes are wrecked, that's one of the commonly broken parts. On top of that, F3 forks are very desireable for F2 race bikes, so there's twice the demand.

Otherwise eBay should have pretty much anything else I'll need, and because people still race F3's in WERA, there's a steady supply of performance and stock parts for sale there.

I finally found a good service manual for my old Kaw. Used it to troubleshoot the starting circuit, rebuilt the starter and now its cranking and starting right up. Money well spent! But I have found parts are not only hard to find but they are expensive. And not all are available, but doing ebay searches things have been popping up now and then.