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And so it begins....


RHill

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No no....I'm not getting triple teamed. I known how the rules work.

I have a problem with the rogue MS dude though and since we all know who it is now (NICK) maybe he'll do a better job of informing the attendees from now on.

:D

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Need a little help figuring out some gearing for the track bike.

Right now both my bikes are setup with stock gearing with a 525 chain. The stuff on the track bike is toast. I have a 520 setup off my 01 that is -1+5. I could put it on and keep it as is, or get a new rear sprocket with less teeth. I'm thinking -1+5 is going to be too large of a change and it will probably top out too early(ignoring chain angle and effects on suspension for now). I'll be taking the bike to Nelson, PIRC, Mid-O, hopefully Grattan and maybe even Putnam. I realize 1 ratio isn't going to be perfect isn't going to be perfect for all those tracks, but I'd like to find something that won't have me clicking into 6th just to roll off a split second later.

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Completely unrelated to the topic, but I'm so happy I have to share. Around Christmas I was asking about 50's, because I went to visit my nephews and wanted to get them something. Well my brother in law didn't like the idea of getting a beat up 50 for ~$500 and would rather buy something mint the boys can trash; so I've been keeping an eye out. Then there is the whole issue of two brothers sharing 1 bike. I've believe I've found a solution:

IMG_20130323_173037.jpg

Looks like the garage is going to be pretty tight to work in for a little while. I'm so tempted to take the 70 out for a spin :D

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-1/+1 and be done with it.... and go 520.

Just did that with r1 today on mine. 520 EK w/Driven sprockets front and back -1/+1. (Thanks Nathan!) If you do decide to stay 525 and are looking for a larger rear, I have a Renthal 46t rear in that pitch that has hardly any wear.

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Just did that with r1 today on mine. 520 EK w/Driven sprockets front and back -1/+1. (Thanks Nathan!) If you do decide to stay 525 and are looking for a larger rear, I have a Renthal 46t rear in that pitch that has hardly any wear.

Thanks, but I'll be switching over to 520 since the track bike sprockets look like crap and I already have a good chain off my 01. I have to dig around and find the front sprocket then contact Nathan for a 46t rear.

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Thanks, but I'll be switching over to 520 since the track bike sprockets look like crap and I already have a good chain off my 01. I have to dig around and find the front sprocket then contact Nathan for a 46t rear.

Are you looking for a 46t in particular? Not sure what your gearing is stock, but mine is 16/43, so I went 15/44. I was at 15/43 from the previous owner, so I am not expecting much.

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Are you looking for a 46t in particular? Not sure what your gearing is stock, but mine is 16/43, so I went 15/44. I was at 15/43 from the previous owner, so I am not expecting much.

Stock is 16/45 for the 04/05 600s. I'm not really particular about it, just need to throw something on to ride and learn more.

That is pretty neat! The layout of the page makes it a little confusing at first when you are trying to figure out how it works.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I just got done checking the valve clearances, looks like all the intake valves are right in range and 3/4 exhaust valves are going to need shorter shims. Loosing .1 mm in shim height should put them all mid range.

If anyone in the Cleveland area has done this before I'd love a second opinion before pulling the cams!

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Usually the only place people seem to make mistakes is in their math. Did you do yourself a favor and get metric feeler gauges?

Post up your measured values and what the spec is and at least we could look at it and say "Sounds about right to me."

Also, do you have shims already? I bought a Hot Cams shim kit awhile back for a Suzuki ATV, chances are they're the same diameter.

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I made a mistake in my previous post, meant to say 7/8 exhaust valves not 3/4

The feeler gauge that I have has both standard and metric values on it, not sure if a metric gauge has more discrete values or not.

I don't have any shims yet, wanted to figure out if/what I needed first.

Going from memory, the spec is .1-.2 mm for the intake and .2-.3 for the exhaust. I found all the intakes were either .128 or .152. All the exhaust valves save one had .152 or .176 clearance. The one that was in range was just over .2mm.

I plan on collecting all the measurements a second time tonight and comparing to my previous numbers.

Hopefully I'm using the feeler gauge correctly as I've never done this before. I expect a little bit of drag on insertion and removal as the gauge flexes to the right angle, but once inserted there should be little friction if it is the correct gauge?

I tried inserting too thick of a guage and it felt like the spring compressed slightly and there was definetly more friction when moving the inserted gauge.

I'll post up the values collected tonight and the corresponding shim thickness change.

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25.4

Get back to work on your bike!

Anyway remeasured and results are as follows from cylinder 1-4.

Exhaust

.229

.229

.203

.229

.229

.229t

.203

.203

Intake:

.152

.152

.152

.152

.152

.127

.152t

.127

I'm pretty sure I was feeling drag between the aluminum and the gauge before and that is why numbers are different. This time I made sure the gauge was only touching the cam and tappet. There were a few that I could force the next larger size gauge in, but it seemed to have excessive drag, so I recorded the lower value. The values that have a t beside them had a little drag, but not enough to bump them down to the lower value.

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yeah everything looks to be in the mid to low range of spec. I am thinking I'll put it back together and get it ready for the 3rd, then after that weekend, take it down again and put everything to mid-range.

I haven't even fully heated the engine up yet or been through the gears, I'd hate to have something more pressing go unnoticed while I'm working on valve clearances. Also, the bike suposidly sat for a year or more, I'd like to give it a little workout before adjusting stuff; not sure if it really matters for valve clearances or not.

Edited by RHill
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  • 2 weeks later...

Couple updates, first RidersDiscount is the bomb! IMG_20130409_180021.jpg

Planned on getting the bike mostly back together and some new goodies bolted on, but one of the valve cover bolt gaskets wanted to play hide and go seek, so that killed an hour. Turned out it was hidden away nicely inside the rear spring. :nono:

Next up, this started off as "Hey, this part of the wiring harness is supposed to go under the frame. Wow this looks like it got a little pinched. Better strip back a the exterior sheath and make sure it is OK" Good thing...

IMG_20130422_210325.jpg

Then it turned into "Ok, looks like whoever put this thing together used yellow tape on everything they touched, guess its time to start tearing it off......SURPRISE!" This started life as a giant knot of tape about an inch to inch and quarter around.

IMG_20130422_210247.jpg

I'm debating about just leaving the butt connectors wrapped in tape; or tearing it apart, taking the harness under the frame like it should be and soldering it.

I need to go through the wiring diagram and verify I'm not missing anything necessary(some yellow taped off connectors not in the pics). There are a couple wires butted together that do not match color code which concerns me. Not sure if I should take the step of deleting any unnecessary wiring at this point, almost frightened to hack up the harness any more....although this is nothing compared to what had to be done to my 01 after my wreck.

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The yellow is electrical tape. It worked out pretty nice since it is obvious. I just don't understand why they needed to use so much of it(almost all of it is already off in the pic). That damaged wire was literally zip tied, electrical taped, then duct taped...all over the damaged stock heavy wire sheathing.

Oh, the shit all over the frame is residue from duct tape....I'll get it cleaned off eventually.

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Don't be scared! Cut those crappy butt connectors off and solder it, but don't forget to put some shrink wrap on before you do. And run it under the frame like it should be.

I hate butt connectors for anything important like this. Solder FTW.

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