Helmutt

If you order online and pay via creditcard, they can direct ship anything you buy - almost my favorite way to shop if I'm not in a hurry

Damn! 12k is really singin' for a twin - small caliber or not.......my inline-4 redlines about the same but I'm talking 1352cc's not 650 so I'd go up a tooth on the front and then if he's still not happy start gearing up the rear little by little until it suits him.

EXACTLY!! Anytime I've got to bury the brakes on my bike, I'm concious of what/who is in front of me so I know where I can go if I run out of space as well as watching my mirrors CLOSELY for any possibility of an ass-pack in the making.......He definitely didn't plan his escape route very well - I'm sure he was panicking when he locked up the brakes on the bike, looked like he let off and got back on 'em so he did well in keeping it upright........until........at least he's ok and hopefully this hard lesson will be one learned by him.

Farg!! I got sucked in on this one........glad it's just a tire afterall!!

Props for sticking up for the victim bro, you's good people! Sadly enough, although the victim may avoid a citation; quite a few insurance companies will penalize their own customers for simply being involved in an accident since damages are covered under their collision coverage and not by the "at fault's" insurance company - too bad everyone doesnt have dash cam's.....thats all the proof she'd needed to warrant free repairs.

I remember it too, definitely would have been a freakish viewing to attend

Think CarWhore is lookin' for a deal on a 160......bump!

Typically, a finer threaded fastener will withstand more torque since there are more threads per inch displacing the force agasint each thread. But on the bikes I've owned, most metric rotor and caliper bolts are "fairly" coarse threaded ( 1.25 or 1.50 TPI ) where as a 2.0 would tolerate more pressure -- But, like you said......contact between ferrous and non-ferrous metals WILL result in some sort of corrosion I would think -- Or maybe not, assuming that thread lock would HELP eliminate possible corrosion though......I can always tell when I pull my rotors whether or not I forgot to threadlock the bolts - usually have a coating of chalky corrosion that squeak and squeel and fight to be removed;) Then again, maybe corroded bolts is BETTER than threadlock?? Hahaha :D:D

+1 ^^^

Thanx for the time saver.....open dvr show list.....select Sunday MotoGP......delete. Damn disasters, toyin' with my emotions like that...

I'm doubtful that aluminum fixtures can stretch a grade8 fastener to the breaking point, more than likely you'd pull the threads from the caliper before the bolt stretched to where it would shear - think most OE bolts are a grade 5? I may be wrong but they seemed softer than the 8's I upraded to back then ::edit:: Now that I think about it, did it shear at the head of the bolt? Or somewhere on the shank? It would make sense it could break at the head if over-torqued enough times but you're racing the bike right? Thats quite a bit of extra force against those bolts, may need to upgrade them all

Welcome to OR! Busa's aint a bad choice, just dime a dozen compared to the BIG Ninja - I looked at a couple before I saw a ZX14 and it was over from there - I couldnt resist.......there's just no replacement for displacement;) Congrats on buying a hypersport, that bike's only a suspension tune and good set of sticky tires away from carving up the twisties and trackdays.....

You got a good lady, and good friends for being cool enough to do such a thing. Some buddies of mine are pretty loose with who rides their bikes, they swap around like their swappin' wives back in the 70's Personally, I've only let 2 other guys ride my bike........the previous owner ( who bought it new ) and a good friend of mine that's very respectable -- but I'd let my buddy load my bike and haul it for me - so far, he's the only member in my "very trustworthy friends club" - hahaha

++1 on the Maxima chainwax.......1st thing I do with ANY new chain ( dirt or street ) is put an inch of kerosene in a drain pan and scrub her down, hang it up and blow it out with compressed air, install on the bike and spray it lightly with Maxima, go for a short hop to warm it up and spray it again - the let it cool and I'm good for a month or so. The Maxima chainwax is the only product I've found that stays on the chain as long as you don't over-apply

I'd go to the local Fastenal branch or another specialty fastener warehouse. Glad it was a farily painless surgery to extract the broken bolt. My '97 YZF1000R had 5mm hex driven socket-head capscrews for the rotors and calipers and needed torqued about 20 ft-lbs, the hex bit loved to roll inside of those bolts.........but I replaced them with torx driven grade 8's as I took them in and out quite a bit for brake jobs -- think I gave a tick over $30 for all new hardware for both fronts and rear setups, but the torx bolts will allow for some major overtorque if you're not careful ;)

I don't especially like the Scion's but that's not what counts here........I do like the color and the wheels are pretty sharp too - good mpg and legroom from what I've heard though........congrats!!

Not sure how set you are on an injected bike, but if your bummed about missing out on an '05 ZZR600 check craigslist for one in Piqua Ohio - its a good friend of mine that got one new for his fiance' and she's barely ridden it - he lowered it for her and shaved the seat down some but can be put back to stock height easily. There's only about 1600 miles on this bike for relatively the same price as the bike you missed out on. The bike is still in the garage and still for sale if you're interested. http://dayton.craigslist.org/mcy/2325861996.html

This IS a good move for Polaris/Victory as Indian is a STRONG historical figure in motorcycling history - I just hope the dont hack up a good thing like AMF did to HD back in the day

I learned to ride the old fashioned way in the dirt, motard style if you will......so my first sportbike was quite a sensation, as well as an adjustment. Just like these guys are sayin' James, take it easy until you understand the full physics of what you're trying to accomplish........the more you can learn off the bike, the smarter your riding will be the next time out. Books and vids are a good investment of your time to see and know how body position affects the bike in and out of the turns. I picked up a lot of what I know from simply watching races, talking with other riders/racers, and trying to apply what I've heard/seen in a slower paced environment -- once you're comfy with your own actions/reactions, then work your speed up.......you'll have a better grasp on the concept especially once you add more centrifugal turning force with the increased speed. For the record, I was street riding for years before attempting track riding for the first time - but after trying it, I feel it may have helped me understand what I can and can't do that much sooner -- personally, get through the safety course and put some more miles on that ride before suiting up to hit the track.

Never got to mess around with the old ramjets and haven't seen the newer turbine toys.........But, I used to be into RC when I was a teen......I raced electric buggies and my Dad built us boats and planes to play with. Those planes take some skill and patience to fly -- we had some small gas trainers and a couple low-winged craft ( F4U Corsair, PT40 ) that were a blast to fly but F4U and PT took STEADY hands to keep off the ground There was a fella back in the late 80's at the local RC Hawks air field that built a 1/10 scale P-51 tankbuster with a serious engine "upgrade" ( more lke overkill ) and was pulling a low altitude, high speed flyby when it tore a wing clean off - so from sweet scale-model to a lawn dart in less than a second! Sad sad sad thing to see........especially for the owner that had tons of hours and thousands of bucks in building it.

I dig the whole American ST concept but Buell's been there done that leaving little trend to set there, so this may not be the best opening investment on their part, but I'm assuming they've based this approach on the market explosion for ST's, FJR's, Connie's, etc. Hope productions not taking so long due to outsourcing parts or powerplant from Mexico......we've had TONS of warranty work come through our shop due to poor work on their part......detrimental failures warranting engine swaps at less than 8k miles? Piss poor assembly work......Oh well, Walmart wages = Walmart quality......so, I'm hoping they'll make the "smarter" decision......afterall, we're Americans......we're used to overpaying

Hey Matt.....this is an old thread I somehow managed to revive from June '09. Dont feel stupid though bro, I'm the idiot startin' this tard moment;)

Damn!! How'd it? Where in the.....? WTF!?! No need for a shovel, looks like mine is diggin' up thread just fine:D Disregard the retard everyone.....

No need to take it down past the paint - same color or not - I'd prep it like attacks telling you, and take her to maaco. I've seen a couple of the "ambassador" paint jobs that a couple hundred bucks get and they're not too bad if you just need decent work......but if you take your time and scuff it right, it would probably turn out better than the ones I've seen

Nice! Almost a Kawi green Raider, thats a sweet scheme and good paint work too - kudos to your design and the artists job! I liked the Raider to begin with, but yours is MEAN!!!