Cordell

I am currently debating what shocks and possibly springs to buy for my Camaro. I wasn't going to buy them just yet but upon disassembly of other parts it has become obvious that the stock ones are well past done and i shouldn't put it off. Those who know me know that I do not cheap out at all when I am buying stuff for my cars especially my Camaro. I'm sure I know of about everything out there for the car but I can't make up my mind. It has to be quality, and I really want some adjustability. The car will see drag strip, but mostly street duty. I have the Corvette to autocross so I don't need another corner carver, but I certainly don't want to give up what it is capable of now. Parts I'm considering, Viking double adjustable coilovers, Qa1 single adjustables (def a good deal at work), Koni SA yellows and buy springs later. The KYB AGX are okay, but seem like a compromise. Afcos are really nice but pricey and I don't want it set up soley for drag racing. Thoughts? Opinions?

Sale pending on rear axle

So I've removed some stuff from my Camaro today, and don't want to store it. BMR rear suspension parts, Black Hammertone finish, poly bushings, all on-car adjustable. Been on the car for 5-6 years, all in good condition, going a different direction. $200 for the LCAs, Panhard, and Trans mounted Torque arm. F-body factory aluminum driveshaft, new rear u-joint, good condition, don't need it anymore - $100 http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp133/ND2RACE/CIMG0704_zps3yhujdxu.jpg Stock f-body 10 bolt, 3.42 gears, has 4 channel backing plates included, minimal gear whine, good useable rear end, all stock, if it doesn't sell quickly I'll gut it and scrap it as I don't have room to store this thing - $150 http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp133/ND2RACE/CIMG0702_zpsvt6ft5mw.jpg No I'm not ready to make a big deal about what I'm doing, so don't clutter up my for sale thread asking me. As you can see it's all off of the car, so come get it out of my way. I don't have a truck so I'm not delivering it anywhere either. Located in Blacklick.

I'd really like to know where they got this rep, it was quite often at Lash they'd send something down they were convinced was a programming issue. Although I've never delt with them they seem stupid, at least on newer stuff.

Probing insulation is just asking for corrosion and wiring issues down the road. Backprobing with the right tools is the way to do it. Something like this http://www.aeswave.com/Back-Probe-Kit-17-piece-p9260.html

As far as riding mowers go, I think there is only a couple manufacturers for the entry level stuff. Just find the color scheme you like and buy it. If you want to spend more for something quality then you can justify making a thread like this.

Who wants to run an old Camaro? I mean it hasn't run in the 11s since Obama was elected.

Thanks guys, I may consider Nitrous Outlet but I was curious what recert would cost.

Anybody had a nitrous bottle recertified lately? How much did it cost? Where did you go? Trying to decide if I just want to cough up the money for a new bottle or not.

He's taken pics of mine and they aren't any better then yours. Wagner just likes taking pictures and uses it for more experience with different colors and scenarios. If Wagner wants to do it I'm sure he'll get something out of it as well.

I'm glad somebody got my sarcasm. This what I'd stsrt with. NGKs are good as well.

Splitfire plugs, especially good for people retrofitting newer cars with old tech.

Doubt I'll be able to be there all day, but I'm in. Might even make some hits in the Camaro, you never know.

Thats a lot of malfunctions, went shooting yesterday. Shit my XD 9mm, my S&W 22, and all my Dad's gunsand the only malfunctions all day was his new Ruger. Once I reallized the trigger had 2 clicks to it, I had no more issues.

Welcome to LS engines. Nothing is cheap.

I like the Z51, but having serviced the eLSD I could care less for it. Getting access to it, special tools and bleed procedure make it a pain. Have seen a couple with random issues, one needed the module replaced, the other had a burnt electrical terminal (I wasn't the one who fixed it, not poistive which terminal). Of course I'm a little biased as I prefer my cars without as much fancy electronics. The multiple networks and bunch of modules on new Vettes just isn't for me.

I love some clean white F-bodys, nice.

Good point. I would've thought just about any 2000 LS engine would be a 411, but what do I know.

Well, something's not the same, or the flash is corrupted. Flash it back.

What vehicle is the new OS for?

Is the new OS for a drive-by-wire? Check the type of vehicle section, and the IAC parameters. I would imagine it's not using the IAC.

Not the same thing. It's a feature to keep idiots from over revving shit, and barely works for that. If you want a 2step on an LS based vehicle MSD makes a box to interupt the coils. Otherwise aftermarket ECm.

I worked as a Mazda tech for a short time, programming those keys to the vehicle is not a simple process. The dealership has to plug into the car, pull a rolling code that changes every couple of ignition cycles, log in to Mazda (a highly restricted website that they won't give you access to until you are trained), and input those codes so they can give you a unique unlock code in order to program the key. Good luck getting around it.

Kyle and I are coming.

I totally agree with this, couldn't have said it better. My personal thoughts is that if either way is used for minimal time, not standing on the 2 step in a parking lot like a dickhead, it's not a big deal either way.