Cordell

Yeah my fast times were in someone else's car, we ain't fast anymore bud.

People can post here if they want.

I went 12.4x in my Camaro. More importantly Wagner went 10.90 in his Trans Am, and I'm more proud of that.

You were never supposed to burn it off, but that didn't stop many people. Best way I found to strip wire like that was to tie it to something, stretch it out, and shave a stripe off as you walk down it with a sharp knife. The rest of the insulation peels right off.

Yay!

Agreed. I'm not taking the day off to get up earlier then normal.

Very good chance I'll be there.

Neat. I like.

Nice car, welcome.

Call DynoTune. Brian has tuned many Harleys.

So long as the roads are dry, I want to go.

Don't you have a Wavetrac? Motul makes a specific fluid without LS additive specifically for that, in case you didn't know. The paper blocker rings were on the early T56s. I have carbon blockers in mine so I wasn't worried about RP. You can't go wrong with dex 3 or GM manual trans fluid in a stock T56. My Vette is an early trans so it has the GM fluid in it.

The correct fluid is GM manual trans fluid, it came out in 2006 when GM updated all their ATF to Dex6. It's basically dex 3 replacement for manual trans cars. If you want to run synthetic use something specifically for manual trans requiring ATF, like RP syncromesh. You will get lots of opinions on the topic but GM says that synthetics don't make the syncros work properly. That's why they came out with the manual trans fluid, because dex 6 is synthetic. I run the Royal Purple syncromax without issue.

I'm not bringing the Vette, just my old Camaro :nutkick::gives:

:gay2: 315/35/17 my e-tire>your e-tire

We rolled out around 10 and headed out to look at the overcrowded parking lot in Hilliard.

Starts around 6:30-7, I have been there until midnight before, but usually by 10.

Well guys it goes on all summer, I'm sure this won't be the only time I go.

Gary is finally going to feel the need for suspension tuning, just the simple fact that I'm sure your stuff is worn out, did you say 160k miles? Seriously. Lot's of people have done well with a fairly stock suspension, my car running 10s had the stock shocks and springs on it. However while I got it to track straight the suspension did not, and I wouldn't have considered it very consistant. Wagner's car is doing the same shit mine did, and hopefully we can work that out this year. There are many options out there, but since you will be heavily drag racing it I'd lean towards a Viking set-up. For the money you get adjustability, and quality parts. You may consider a short torque arm, should work pretty well at the level I suspect you'll be. I also think an airbag in the right rear spring is a very good idea if not running a huge rear sway bar or coilovers. Enough sway bar to combat body roll isn't worth it to me on a street strip car given that an airbag will do the same thing. Do some reading, lots of people have made these cars fast so picking a good starting point should be easy. Just remember that every car is a little different, and different power levels, different tires, and different application of power all require a little different tuning. At the very least error on the side of tunability rather then something that you have to replace if it doesn't do what you want. Keep in mind that most of the info you find on 4th gen f-bodies are guys running power adders in a street car that all seem to run well on stock suspension (at first glance anyway), or a lot of marketing fluff that most keyboard warriors take as gospel. I'm no expert in track tuning but if you need some help with geometry and alignment let me know.

As of last week these started up again every friday night. I didn't go last week when the weather sucked, but tomarow looks to be great. Hope to see some friends there.

Something relatively basic without being used for other crap to slow it down. Good battery life is a big plus. Tuning software doesn't require much computing power as compared to most things nowadays.

IMHO there is no reason to run anything other then quality blanks. I have never seen a cross drilled rotor with any real mileage on it that wasn't cracked, that includes factory Mercedes, BMW, and GM'S factory parts. Slotted rotors are nothing special either. Just because someone makes cheap drilled or slotted rotors doesn't mean you need to buy them.

Yup.

Well it's kind of a dealer, but not really. Mostly GM cars though. I'm excited.

I was considering Kilkare, this is even more tempting.