wolfeman28

Count me in if no freeways are included. Supposed to be pretty nice out.

Oh and I found out my AppleTV I bought a year ago can't be update to the new software. So if I want the new OS on it with the apps, I have to can it and buy the new one. Time to get AndroidTV

And just imagine all the folks running older Apple equipment that can no longer be updated. I'd love to see the list of vulnerabilities now. I have a perfectly good 2006 MacBook Pro that still runs well. The newest software it can run is the early version of Snow Leopard... So basically the only choices I had with it was to run a vulnerable OS, or permanently run Bootcamp with Windows. So I tossed Windows 10 on it, runs better than it did before. Not wasting anymore money on Apple products. I hate the 'throw away' mentality of Apple. "Oh it's last years version? Buy the new one cause we said so."

Pic from right meow

Yamaha XS400 turned landspeed bike, with lights thrown on so I can piss off the neighbors with a loud mega and lumpy idle. It's a blast to ride, I have now acquired 5 different front sprockets and 3 rears, so I can get it to do pretty much anything. Right now it's a wheelie machine and blasts through all 6 gears by the time I hit 60 The shifting gets old quick, but it can keep up with the big bikes around town. On the straights? Not so much lol

I've been ripped off like that before selling stuff on ebay. One time I sold a rackmount guitar amp, worked 100% perfectly when I sent it. Buyer said he plugged it in and it wouldn't work. So I accepted a return on it and figured he was just clueless on how to use it, since these things just don't break. Got it back, refunded him the money. Sure enough, it wouldn't work. Opened it up, and the circuit board was completely gone. Noticed that he took the $10 a piece nice tubes I had on it and changed them with old burnt out cheapos. Was pretty pissed, and nothing I could do via ebay to get my parts back. Sucks.

Size 35 in a 31 bag? Maybe someone returned their old ones after buying the 31s and got the $$ back.

I've posted this elsewhere, but I'll toss it in here-

It's supposed to be decent out tomorrow, I'll go take a hipsteriffic pic of my bike and post here.

Welcome back. I don't think anyone will flame you for being a LEO. It's the 'bad apples' that get the hate on here from what I've seen. Nice plane! I need to get current one of these days, got my license back in 2001 and haven't flown since 02.

Oh and this is a hidden jem that many have never seen. Although it covers more than the IoM(there is some good footage of it though, I think from the 70 race), it's a great look at the times gone by, before commercial bullshit took hold in the next few years.

If you've never seen this one, it's well worth a watch. Surprisingly, Al Jazeera put out something pretty good. Dives into the minds of the TT guys a bit more than all the other videos.

Have you noticed any instability after raising your rear? I'm an inch and a half taller on the ass end on mine, and it gets the shimmies over 80mph now. I spent a lot of time with my suspension numbers and kinda figured that would happen. My steering damper allows me to ride through the shakes til about 95, but it gets 'danger close' to letting go at that point. I dropped it down to stock length just to try it out and all shakes went away. Nice bike though. I'm so tired of the carbon copy 750's, it's nice to see something else. Hopefully I'll get to see it at the NEO meet and greet.

Yeah it's only $45 extra for me, the conversion shows $112 for the standard and $157 for the multi. I ended up with the multi, figured why not. Now nobody spoil this weekend for me, I haven't watched yet!

It's still very tempting, especially for $25.

Seems like the MotoGP videopass is the better option, unless there are other programs on the cable subscriptions you will end up watching. I have a question though, for those that do use the videopass, is it worth the extra $45 for the multiscreen? I'd hate to buy it and never use it.

I'm a DOD certified non-lethal weapons instructor, which includes certifying many folks on using OC spray. I'm not condoning the asshat bikers at all. BUT That cop should be fired. There is a fine line with LTL's(less than lethals), and what he did crosses it. You can not employ LTL's to the point that they can be lethal. If you do, it follows the same protocol of using his sidearm. Spraying someone with OC while operating a motor vehicle can cause death. So unless the officer can prove that he feared for his life, he's in deep doo-doo.

Saturday it is, I can be there noonish. Just PM me the addy

Any thing that's not dark Just name the day and time, I'm free every day.

Want me to drive down with my wideband when you are free this week? Just pay for my gas. We can install some nipples on the carbs for a synch tool as well. That way you can get them proper at idle, then we can at least use the wideband to do a WOT run and see if your main jets are the right size. Based off of the numbers it shows, you can order a new set of mains if need be, and be done with it. Much easier than doing plug chops to figure out if you are rich or lean.

Yes with the filters off, you should be able to see the slide bottom. Give the throttle a pull to see whats going on in there, you'll figure it out. Well, kinda. Worry about each carbs air screw first(the one close to the air inlet). turn them clockwise on both carbs until they barely bottom out. Then move each one 1/2 turn counterclockwise as a starting point (That's the richest position on them, safer to start there). Then adjust each carbs slide height to equal. Do it visually, or use a sewing needle or a long nail to 'gauge' them the same. Then try starting it. If it revs to the moon, you have the slides too high. If it won't start at all, they are too low. I haven't messed with VM's in a while, but I'm pretty sure the idle slide height is a very small range and easier to deal with.

That is the slide height adjustment for idle. That's what I'm referring to. Set them equal on both sides till they are barely showing the slide as open

The lever should be flipped up, so the plunger(brass) goes down. That would be the off position on both carbs. The slide height adjustment is on the other side of the carb. If you go to the other carb on the left side of the bike, you should see it on that one. Its a knob directly in the center. That right side carb will be a PITA to get to. You can actually modify the carb to move the slide height adjuster to the other side to make it easy to get to, but I do believe you need to order a different slide to accommodate it. I have it circled below. The adjustment on the top of the carb is used to eliminate slack in the cable. It should not be used to set idle. Once you get teh idle on both carbs proper, you adjust those top things to get the carbs to open at exactly the same time. We will get there

By the way, in the pic your enrichment(choke) is in the on position. Make sure its off when doing this, or your going to be fighting the tunning

Ok I'm going to post a reply to your PM here so others can help, and also if others need help in the future they can reference. So you have Mikuni VMs and aftermarket filters. I'm going to guess they are VM 30's, do you by any chance know? Any idea what jets and needle are in them? If not, we can still work things out. From what I can see, the manifolds they used don't have nipples for hooking up a synch gauge. So that kinda stinks, but we can work around that too. Take off filters, and set each carbs throttle height visually to the same height. The slide is adjusted up or down with a knob in the middle of the carb(on the other side of the pic you posted). Set them all the way down, then lift them up slightly so that they are just ever so slightly opened. Turn your air screws in all the way. These are the screws that are closest to the air filter, you can see it in the pic you posted on the left. (Looks like its out pretty far). Turn it all the way in until you feel pressure slightly. Don't crank down on it, or you risk ruining the tip or breaking it off. Start tuning by backing it out counter clockwise 1/2 turn (180 deg). In your pic, it looks like they are out farther than they should be. Try to start the bike without giving it throttle. If it idles where it is, let it run for about a minute. Then you need to pull the plugs and we can go from there.