hiro

On my Ninja 650, I raised the windscreen to maximum and it made horrific noise! In the lowest position, it's still better to have no windscreen at all. Never tried the middle position. I have been wanting to cut the windscreen down, but I'm just not ready to risk destroying it. I'm only about 5'8". (I wanted to go naked, but I went with the best deal overall.) The chin curtain might help me. I have a weak chin and jaw line, I guess, and the curtain in the HJC is mesh and just touches the middle of my chin. I was planning to try stuffing some padding around the neck roll to see if snugging it up might help. The cheek pads used to be super tight! Painfully tight, but now they're good. If you had pressure on your forehead with the RF-1200, but not the GT-Air, the GT-Air sounds better for me. Considering the HJC used to make my forehead burn!

Shoei helmets. Do you have any of these and what are your thoughts about them? GT-Air RF-1200 RF-SR My HJC FG-17 is killing me. The NOISE! (Also, it used to kill my forehead, so I'm thinking the shape isn't a perfect match.) I know wind noise is a complex interaction of turbulence, position, bike structure...but I'm wondering if a more expensive helmet may help /enough/ to keep me riding. I do wear foam ear plugs, but my ears are ringing just sitting here. The noise comes from the base of the helmet, maybe more towards the back. I like to be leaned forward a little, rarely tuck, never fully upright. And I plan to move to NC, so heat might be a factor, but noise is a deal breaker. I've tried a Windjammer II which just doesn't work for me. Wearing a neck gaiter does help, but it's summer! As it is now, I can only imagine short rides and/or not exceeding 50mph. This is no way to live!

Sounds pretty good. Riding with trucks, I'd want more power than a 250 has anyway.

Is it this? https://lexington.craigslist.org/mcy/6127292016.html

Now I want that '97 EX500! First thing I'd check is date codes on the tires. (But...if I had $1000, I'd buy a Shoei helmet and maybe a BT device for navigation and have plenty of change for fuel!)

97 Kawasaki ninja 500 - $1000 https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/mcy/6175777296.html (rebuilt) 2007 Kawasaki Ninja 250R - $1000 https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/mcy/6174967376.html

Check insurance costs.

Yikes. Either someone pretending to not know about the bike, really doesn't know, or someone crashed without a helmet!

Seeing a good number of bikes $2000 and less in the Columbus area. A few Ninja 250's and some older Ninja 500's. (If the bike were safe, I'd ride it down there, but my ears would object.) I wonder what the deal is with this one. https://columbus.craigslist.org/mcy/6169011562.html

I don't know if this is the Ninja 250 mentioned, but I wish I still had the tires I took off my bike that would probably fit it. I could check to see if I could get them back. https://columbus.craigslist.org/mcy/6173751421.html

Oh, if you're going back to Japan next summer, then you do need the bike now. Sooner the better. But I wouldn't ship it to Japan. I mean, the bikes come from Japan! haha Shipping is an expense and it could get damaged. A cheap bike probably would not be worth it unless it is a collector's item. It's possible to get something on payments, then sell it later to pay off the loan. As long as you don't damage it.

For one thing, a motorcycle will not be practical during winter, unless you take the risk and spend even more money on winter gear. So a cheap car sounds more practical right now. Plus, if a car breaks down, you're not likely to get hurt. It isn't about loving the car. It's about transportation to get money to get what you want and need. You can find cars under $10,000 that are nice, but probably have higher mileage. Not making payments is smart, but more for people who either have plenty of money or who drive a cheap car for transportation. Or paid off the car and kept it for years. So, either make payments or pay cash for a cheap car. Save money and get a decent bike this winter or next riding season.

Oh, and the reason why many might seem like scams is because of the low price range. If you see a bike that shouldn't be priced $1000-2000, something is likely wrong. Like a GSXR or something.

That and a cash flow clog!

Downsides for carbs would be be cleaning, maybe more frequent maintenance due to ethanol, and dealing with the choke. (I've never had a bike with carbs, but I had cars with them, but they had automatic chokes.) For short rides, it might be a pain. The downside of fuel injection might be jerky throttle response as it opens or closes. They also require an electronic device for tuning like a Power Commander. Another thing is, if you get a carb'ed bike, would you want to clean 2 or 4 of them?? I know a guy who has a V4 and he does not want to even think of pulling the carbs out. heh They're sandwiched in the "V."

Oh, wait. The Nighthawk has a front DRUM brake?

The price is right. Standard seating position? Needs some work on both left turn signals? Might need new tires, but they look small (less expensive) and there should be rebate deals. Seems like a good option for a year. And it's a Honda. This might night be a serious option due to the age, but I thought it was cool that it's an 4-banger. https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/mcy/6150474690.html

https://columbus.craigslist.org/mcy/6164529600.html (The other link didn't work for me.)

You could finance one of these. https://columbus.craigslist.org/mcd/6157109754.html https://columbus.craigslist.org/mcd/6141714263.html https://columbus.craigslist.org/mcd/6141722806.html

I wonder if it would help to open up your search to include cruisers and scooters. This is also prime time for riding, so bikes are selling for higher prices, I guess.

Understood. The problem is, shopping at such a low price point is difficult, as you know. Nothing it likely to be ideal without some extra work, expense, or compromise. I, too, am very (read overly) thoughtful about what I choose to buy. Even then, I end up regretting my purchase in some way! After I get over that, I just work with what I have. My searches were generally $2000-4000, with most options starting closer to $2500. In both cases, I paid $3800 for a bike, not including tax, and both bikes had around 1700 miles on them. An eerie coincidence. The bigger bike was just older at the time of purchase.

I bought two bikes on Craigslist and sold one on Craigslist. From what I experienced, sellers have much more trouble than buyers. Part of the problem might be the impression you make on the seller. The person might not trust that you are a serious buyer. Make it clear that you are really serious.

https://omrlmoto.com/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/317652788389075/

This is why I wanted the USB adaptor closer to the device. The 12V side is a little more efficient at transmitting power over distance than 5V. Plus, it puts the Battery Tender connector in a convenient place.

Have you tried running an app that shows charging current? Just to compare the two cables. I guess I need to see how the current setup works on the road.