SupraGlue

People. READ THE RULES FOR THIS SECTION! That goes for all of you. Seriously, if I could ban some of you from Tech I would. graemlins/nonono.gif Thread locked.

Ricky is the only person who gave a serious tech answer. You guys know the rules in here.

You people know better than this. smile.gif Lock. - The Tech Fascist

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On that note, Ohio Supras has a parts discount worked out with Toyota Direct on Morse. Tell them you're a member, and you get jobber price which is around 20% off.

To answer the initial question: http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/rear_wheel_bearing/index.html Removing and re-installing the hub carriers is something you can do yourself, though it's a bit of work. For pressing out the old bearings and pressing in the new ones you will need access to a hydraulic press or you will need to take it someplace that has a press. There are also at least one mistake in Bergmann's article. What he shows as a bad hub is really just one where one half of the inner bearing race had not been removed. Be absolutely sure that your old bearings are bad. At 124k miles, we did mine as a precaution and honestly, it was a waste of time. The old ones were mint. Of course, my Supra was initially a California and Arizona car. Snow/salt climate cars are apparently known to have premature wheel bearing failure. Howard likes to talk about my "tools". graemlins/gay.gif

Try not to bend the parking brake backing plate this time.

Watched the video and it sounds like it could be a blown intake manifold gasket.

Yes, it's the maximum lift that you can get to before the spring coils contact each other. In terms of the head design, it's directly related to the depth of the spring seats. Deeper seats allow for more lift before you hit coil bind. Depending on how much metal is in the casting, you can sometimes machine the seats deeper.

Starbase Columbus and Starbase1.com are offering 10% off anything in the store or online to Columbus Racing members. Just mention that you saw this on CR to get your discount. There's lots of weird and unusual stuff from Star Wars, Lord of the Rings, Star Trek, Babylon 5, Farscape, X-Files, Xena, and other shows I'm sure I'm forgetting. Ask to take a look at the new kick-ass Darth Vader lightsabers. Big $$$, but they look amazing! Everyone from CR that's been in the store loves the place, so stop in and look around. Hook your friends up with a gift that says, "Hey! I didn't just grab the first thing I saw at Polaris!" The store is located at 5541 Westerville Road, just north of Autozone and the old K-Mart. The website addy is www.starbase1.com www.starbase1.com. Mapquest here!

Drain the oil and refil. Your oil pan is now full of gasoline.

Shady's back, and he's locking threads. Everyone miss me?

I modded my headlights this week. You got a problem with that Eric? tongue.gif Anyway, Dago, you might want to spell out a little what kinds of things you're looking for. Better braking? Handling? Power? Cosmetics? Almost any car can be modded anymore. People around here have certainly tried. lol

Yeah, it's time. Okay, here it is -- this board is NOT the place to come to ask people questions about how to make your car more like "Fast and Furious". Period. No questions about Altezzas. No questions about how to make your eyes go all funny like when they hit the nitrous in "2F2F". No LED tailights. No colored flames. And no whatever it is you're asking. The Tech section is for fixing problems and for making cars faster. This topic is now closed.

This is to answer some of what makes a high-revving motor different from a "normal" one. As engine rotation speeds increase, stresses on internal engine components will tend to increase exponentially. The lower the rotating mass, the lower the stresses are, and the higher the RPM potential can be. As Steve mentioned, bore x stroke is a big factor, but not the only one. Some of the limiting factors that need to be addressed in an engine revving higher are: - Valve mass and springs. Heavy valves need stiffer springs to keep them on their seats (otherwise they will float). Hence the use of multivalve heads on high revving motors, and the use of sodium-filled valves, etc. - Pushrods. Higher spring pressures will put more stress on pushrods, tending to bend them. If you ever saw the old Penske-Mercedes pushrod Indy motor, it had something like 3/4 diameter pushrods that were very short. Shim and bucket overhead cam eliminates this factor. On traditional domestic V8s it's addressed with hardened pushrods. - Rocker arms and studs. Higher spring pressures will put more stress on the rocker arms and rocker studs. Again, this factor is eliminated with shim and bucket OHC. On a high-revving traditional domestic V8 you'll use a rocker shaft and needle bearing rockers, which can be machined from billet or forged aluminum. - Cam (and lifters, if any). Will need to be able to last under higher spring pressures, and also deliver higher duration and lift needed to allow the engine to breathe at the higher revs. There is also a lot of friction at the lifter/cam interface, so for all of those reasons, roller-tip lifters will be used on high-revving cam-in-block engines. Again, shim and bucket OHC eliminates this as well. - Rod material. Higher RPM will cause the rod to stretch or fail. The rods need to be made of a material that will do neither. This also applies to rod bolts. Usually this means a forged aluminum or forged steel alloy. - Crank. Same as rods, except that the material will be a forged steel alloy, or sometimes machined from a forged billet. Shorter stroke means less rotating mass for the crank. Fewer cylinders *sometimes* means fewer crank throws and less rotating mass for the crank. Shorter cranks will be stiffer and less likely to stretch in the plane of rotation, which is one advantage of the V cylinder configuration. - Main bearing caps. These needs to be more securely fastened (typically more bolts, cross bolted or girdled) to withstand the stresses of high RPMs. Some blocks need to be machined for that. This is much easier to engineer on an inline motor. - Head ports. These need to be large enough to flow the air the engine now requires, both on the intake and exhaust side. Valve area will need to be larger also, which means bigger valves or more valves. Of course, on a purpose-built race motor, all tolerances and clearances will be much, much tighter than a production street motor. Sorry. That's kind of a long answer. smile.gif As far as the valve angle of those heads goes, that could affect a couple of things: - It might allow for larger ports and a less shrouded intake valve, so that the engine can breathe at higher RPM. - It might allow for higher valve lift before piston-valve contact occurs, also helping high RPM breathing. - It might allow for a better spark plug location, giving a better burn at the same compression ratio, and lowering octane demand. - It might alter the valvetrain geometry so that it is less prone to float the valves, or reduces stress on valvetrain components.

Please slow down and try to translate your ravings into English. tongue.gif Responses in tech need to be informative and understandable. smile.gif Thank you. -The Management

Let me know when you're doing it, and I'll give you a hand. It's a lot easier with two people.

While we're throwing out guesses, you could also check your grouding points and ground straps/leads. Clean up the contacts if they're dirty, and replace them with new thicker gauge wire if they look like they might be corroded.

He's already running aftermarket heads (Edelbrock Performers).

Who has updates for the Top 25 dyno list? I know people have been going down to Brian's all month. Spill the beans. There's no secrets around here. tongue.gif

Have you tried sanding the surface in the more stubborn areas?

I see technical content here. We can leave it open for a while. Edit: Okay, we've had our fun with Kyle. smile.gif Thanks for being a good sport. It's time for this one to get the lock for being off-topic. [ 10. July 2003, 11:10 PM: Message edited by: Dremel ]

Nobody better go near the wideband. I got dibs on that.

No longer need an AFC. Howard fixed it. redface.gif I might want some parts off Kyle's car for my TII, though.

Mine started to exhibit some odd behavior tonight, so if someone has one that I could use for a quick test, that would be terrific. smile.gif I don't need to run the car on it, just verify sensor voltages. The AFC harness is already wired in, so I just need the little blue box. Thanks. smile.gif