SupraGlue

Huge trap in Dublin, heading eastbound between 33 and Sawmill. Four troopers working it when I passed by. Also, a solo Columbus Freeway also eastbound just before 315 and after Sawmill. Be careful out there. smile.gif

You could try MVPMotorsports.com in Texas. I've had very good results with them having Japanese tuner parts in stock, and their service has been fast.

Don't tempt me.

What Kenny and Chris said. Precision or Innovative. They're also very good with other six cylinders.

So, should we assume that you're going to step up to the task?

Brian T. now has his Mustang at the top of the list -- 542rwhp: http://www.columbusracing.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=007278 We still have a surprising minority of GM products in the Top 10, and who knows what happened to all the imports. redface.gif The full list: http://www.columbusracing.com/dyno25/

You're doing well for a "380hp" car. Got any updates for the list, or are you sticking to that story?

Here's a quickie answer. The exhaust side between the manifold and the turbo is NOT a closed system. There are pressure losses due to drag against the pipe walls, and there is thermal energy loss through the pipe walls. Longer pipes = more pressure and heat loss.

A good place to learn about third gen fbods is www.thirdgen.org There is lots of good tech stuff there. Everything you can think of, and even some things you'd never want to think of, have been done with/to these cars. smile.gif There's also a bunch of links to various parts dealers. Good luck. smile.gif

It's now linked at the top of this forum: http://www.columbusracing.com/dyno25/ Yes, the HTML is plain and ugly. smile.gif Yes, I do know how to make it look better, and probably will someday. tongue.gif To get your car on there, just post something in the sticky thread here: http://www.columbusracing.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=8;t=000433;p=6

ChevyTalk.com has some very good technical areas, and a number of highly knowledgeable posters.

Talk to the mods who run Staging Lanes. smile.gif

Okay, list has been updated. Rob's old car and Luke's dropped off the list. The MR Spyder and Silverado didn't make the new cut. Sorry. smile.gif New list is here: http://www.columbusracing.com/dyno25/Top25.htm Seems like a lot of Mustangs up there. Maybe some of the GM people need to step things up.

Did anyone mention heads? Those cars had pretty poor ones, and an intake manifold and carb will only do so much without some bigger ports and valves to breathe through. Newer heads would also give him the opportunity to bump the compression a little, allowing for some more cam. Add that to everything everyone else said, and he should do okay without a motor swap. smile.gif (It's a 350, btw) So: -Headers -Dual exhaust -Heads -Cam/rockers -Intake manifold + carb -Tranny shift kit -Higher stall converter and... -little blue bottle if he gets bored.

Case A: Iron head motor, block first cooling, wedge chamber, low quench area, high quench height, 11:1 static compression, 272 degrees of intake valve opening on a 114 lobe center (wider lobe center means slighly earlier intake valve closing point). Knocked on 94 octane gas unless ignition timing was retarded. (That's a motor I built in 1988) Case B: Aluminum head motor, head first cooling, pent roof chamber, high quench area, tight quench height, high swirl chamber, 11:1 static compression, 292 intake duration cam, longer rods. This motor will likely run all day long knock-free on octane in the low 90s with full timing advance. (That is the motor I would choose to build in 2003) Now, I'm no guru, which we know because I have never worked on a Porsche , but it sure seems to me that engine B has less inclination to knock than engine A at the same CR. I don't know. Maybe all that stuff I read about dynamic compression just confused me. tongue.gif

Nice post, Will. I figured you'd pop in here at some point with some real answers. You know that V6 cold. smile.gif

The main knock on heat wrap is that it will hold moisture and cause the header to corrode. Since you're using stainless, that shouldn't be a problem. It DOES work well to keep heat in. I'm going to use it on my downpipe (mild steel), but I am going to ceramic coat it first.

Pot.kettle.black. tongue.gif Static compression comparisons between motors with different head designs and cam specifications is MEANINGLESS. Is that V6 an iron head motor? If so, that greatly affects in an adverse way the onset of knock. Aluminum heads are going to be more tolerant. What is the chamber design like? Pent roof? Wedge? What is the squish area? What cam grind will you run? All of those issues will affect how much power you can make under boost before the onset of knock more simple than static CR. Same goes for the efficiency of the compressor/intercooler combination that you will run. The key here is the mixture pressure and temperature within the cylinder -- that is what will cause detonation. Static compression is only one factor in the entire equation. There is a reason it is called "tuning". smile.gif Now, in terms of mechanical strength of the motor, you will need to understand how well the heads seal -- will simple copper head gaskets survive, or will you need to o-ring the deck? Are the head bolts of sufficient number, placement and design to prevent the head from lifting? How thick is the deck of the head and block? What about main bearing area and the strength of the main bearing cap bolts? There is more to building a good turbo motor than just pistons, rods, crank when you are starting with an NA design that may never have had boost intended for any variant of it. Your valvetrain will also merit a look. Increased cylinder pressures means increased stress on all valvetrain components. You may require stiffer valve springs, and strengthened pushrods. Rocker arms will also be something to consider, in terms of the rocker and stud flexing. You are also going to need to consider some other areas where weaknesses can show up. Front and rear main seals are one such area. A boosted motor is going to see more crankcase pressure, so leaking or blown out seals become more of a possibility. Now, this part is just my opinion -- for some of the reasons above, I take a dim view of turbocharging NA motors, when there is a suitable factory boosted motor available. In your case, there is. Both the 3800 Series II Supercharged and the Buick LC2 3.8 turbocharged motors are readily available and swapable to your application. These motors in near-factory trim can make very nice amounts of horsepower. If it were my project, and it is not, and I had the ambitions that you do for boost level, I would strongly consider those options. They are also well-worn paths, and the performance recipies for them are tried and true. If this is your first experience with turbocharging, I would strongly recommend taking that route. Now, driveline is another matter, and I'm assuming that you know that you will need to bring your tranny, etc. up to snuff for your new power and torque level.

Different BOV. Your other friend might have the Greddy adjusted tighter, so that not blowing off so much during light deceleration. The stock BOVs have pretty soft springs, which is why people do the crushed top mod, or drill them to make them adjustable. It can be hit or miss with the mass air cars, too. My Supra never stalled with the Greddy vented, but when we took it off my car and put it on another Supra, that one stalled every time he came to a stop. *shrug*

This is on a mass airflow equipped car, correct? If so, he is venting metered air. This causes the car to run very rich when venting from the BOV -- hence the attempts to stall. Very common problem. You need to either route the BOV vent back to the intake, like stock, or you need to use some sort of fuel controller that compensates for the BOV venting. "Doctor, it hurts when I go like this." "Don't do that, then."

No kidding. I found some very cool solid state relays online -- "only" $83.00 for the 40amp ones. 40A is probably overkill, but it's for two fuel pumps, so it's going to be under a constant load. 30A units in this app have been known to fail. The power lead is 10 gauge, btw. smile.gif

Probably because the moderators were too lazy to move it to the Garage Sale. tongue.gif Moving now...

Best place I've found so far for NGK is International Parts on Westerville road. The copper ones in the heat range that I use are around a buck fiddy, and they seem to always be in stock. I tend to think that plugs are like motor oil -- people have their brands that they like, but the differences probably aren't that great. If the plugs fit right, and the car idles smoothly, doesn't knock or pre-ignite, and doesn't miss, then the plugs work.

I'll agree with the comments on the AGX. The four way adjustability is nice to have. Only problem IMO, is that the jumps between settings are pretty large. Honestly, if you're going to go through the trouble of getting aftermarket shocks, get something adjustable. I think I got my AGX for $80 each or so, plus $15 per corner for the install.