SupraGlue

Can anyone let me know anywhere locally I can find a 12v 40amp relay? I need a DPST or DPDT type. Radio Shack does NOT have anything with that much current carrying capacity.

I've pieced a turbo setup together, and I can't begin to tell you what a fan of kits I am. smile.gif The extra $ is worth it in terms of time saved, IMO.

If you've got the cash, stainless steel braided teflon hose will live with the N20 also, obviously, since it's used for feed lines. I'd guess that you can build a line for $40 or so, with fittings. I just did an oil line with braided Aeroquip AQP line, but I don't think it's rated for the cold you'd have. Not a bad line to work with, really. They also have a press-fit product line with the AQP material, which is cheaper to use. What kind of pressures are you looking at in a purge line?

I've got a mild steel exhaust pipe that needs to be flared from 2.5" to 3". Does anyone have a suggestion on where to have this done? Thanks.

Some of those GM coils are made by Nippon Denso. They're pretty kick ass.

Killer article!

That's why the list is pretty much going to be for numbers from your dyno only. I know that you're consistent and honest with it. People can really play games with correction factors.

Let's see some new numbers from this weekend's dyno days. smile.gif I'll do updates on monday.

His and Force Fed's were within 1hp on my car. *shrug* Let's get some more numbers posted, then we can argue about it. tongue.gif

Making a slight rule change. Any new dyno numbers need to be from Brian's dyno to ensure accurate comparisons. I'm pretty sure that 90% of the people already on the list fit that, so it shouldn't be too big of a deal. I'll make an exception if there's another dyno that can be shown to give within 1% of the same numbers on the same car as his does.

-10AN? Is that for your oil return line? AN is "Army Navy", and a -10AN is 5/8". Have you tried Jeg's for the fitting? They've got a lot.

Actually, a really good detailer or paint guy can color sand and buff it to get it perfect (factory paint rarely is). I knew a guy out in Cali who did that for people on their brand new S-class Mercedes...

Do you have an electric fan, and is it working? If it's thermostatically controlled, that sensor could be bad also.

The Tech section will not be used for advertising or for discussions of vendors. Please, and thank you. tongue.gif

For power, do nitrous. For handling/road course (it can be made into a nice road racer), he should look into TRD or Whiteline adjustible sway bars and some coilovers (Tein makes a nice set for close to $1000). Otherwise, he's looking at a turbo kit, and a few thousand dollars. There are some very effective ones, and NA Supras have gotten into the 10's and well over 500 at the wheels with the stock engine. There is also the possibility of doing a J-spec 2JZ-GTE swap, but again, he'd be looking at a few thousand dollars.

If it never sees rain, the ultimate dry tire is the BFG G-Force KD. The S-03 is also a very good tire, and much better in the wet than the KD, and almost as sticky in dry conditions. It's the best all-around in that sense.

Huh. Score another one for the Ford ECU.

On our cars, we block it off completely, then run a resistor to kill the check engine light. An OBD1 or OBD2 car will generally throw a code (hence the check engine light) for malfunctioning EGR if it's removed, btw.

Okay, updated the list to reflect No Longer N/A Cobra's new car and numbers. Everything else was just updates to people's screen names. If anyone else has new numbers, let me know by posting in this thread. I won't add a car or make changes without the request of the owner, even if the numbers are in your sig. smile.gif

Just be sure that you can stand the sound of an open wastegate. I understand the benefits, but for my car, I just know that I can't take it, so I've chosen to route mine back to the downpipe. Other people like the sound, so if you do, go for it. smile.gif

For hydraulic cams, you can take a junkyard valve cover and drill holes in it so that you can turn the adjuster nuts without spraying oil everywhere. It works pretty well. smile.gif

My understanding is that electric cutouts tend to break over time. Someone feel free to correct me on that. smile.gif

Mike (Rotarded on the board) works at a Saturn dealer on the south side. He's a straight up guy and can tell you how badly they're trying to screw you. From the looks of that price sheet, I'm guessing the guy had a tube of K-Y in his hands when you came in...

I totally agree. I was just assuming that he was trying to figure out what other people's setups were going to be able to do ballpark-wise. BTW, I was told that the 62-1 was discontinued. Oh, and smokinHawk -- the T72 has a better peak efficiency island and better surge line than a 76. The only reason a 76 needs cubes is because the inferior surge line precludes it's use on a smaller engine. tongue.gif (People make over 700 at the wheels with a T72, and over 900 at the wheels with a T74 on some poor little old 3.0 liter. I'd recommend one of those instead. tongue.gif )

Given the size of the inlet and outlet, my guess would be a 60-1. Which, being the biggest of the current T04E line, would put the output in the 450-500fwhp range at high boost with tuning.