slow4now

Do you have the clutch safety switch wired up?

Strip about an 1/2 inch of rubber off both wires you are trying to connect and then connect them together. You can use a cap connector, butt connector, you can solder them together or you can twist them together (the most ghetto way to do it). Be sure to wrap the exposed wire with electrical tape or heatshrink tubing. If you don't have enough length to join the two wires together, get another piece of wire to complete the connection.

How much power are you trying to make? Hondata is the "best" way to get the car running optimally, but you may be able to get by with cheaper equipment.

The dipstick is kind of directly beneath the upper radiator hose. There is no disptick tube, it is just a yellow cap that has a stick on the end. You will have to contort your hand a little bit to reach it. I would have to hear the grinding noise to be of anymore help. If you can bring it by the shop sometime I can take a quick look at it, no charge (shouldn't take but 5 minutes). Later.

The static fuel pressure screw adjusts fuel pressure at idle, the discs adjust the ratio of fuel pressure per pound of boost. What do you have static fuel pressure set at now? If you have it to high already and then try to raise it more it may not go up any higher. Typical base fuel pressure should be around 40-50psi on fuel injected engines. With the Greddy Type-S BOV you want loosen it just enough to prevent compressor surge.

I recommend opening up the exhaust to start with, maybe an intake and then chipping the ECU. Anything beyond that can get pretty expensive.

Buzz, What motor does the vehicle have?

As long as the carbon fiber has a clear coat and not just a gel coat, you care for it as you would any other paint. Are you looking for a polish to get out swirl marks, or just a wax to protect the finish?

If you just need a paperish type gasket, I recommend using the MSD gasket material over the Autozone stuff.

I like to race the Cota buses that are at Easton. So far I am undefeated!

First thing you need to do is take that Autozone gasket and throw it in the trash! WTF would you go through all that trouble only to use an Autozone gasket!?! At the very least get a OE metal headgasket. Dare I ask what kind of bolts you are using?

Kyle, If you want to stop by the shop I can remove it for you. -Ricky

Yeah, I still have it. They sure do hold their value... but if you look hard enough you can sometimes find a good deal. When I bought mine 4 years ago (wow long time). I was looking at 5-6 internet posting sites twice a day. Have to be dedicated to find what you want in a used car, especially a rare one smile.gif . Good luck, and if I can be of any help drop me a line. Damn.. I just realized I am under Ricky's name. This is Howard smile.gif

Your topic title asks about a v-afc or e-manage, but yet the body of your post mentions nothing about them. What is done to the car that you would need any of it?

First off we need to start with definitions. Rate of flow or "flow" (No I'm not talking about the lunch lady in the cafeteria tongue.gif ) = The amount or volume of a substance (In this instance fuel) that can be moved in a given amount of time. Pressure = a measure of force A fpr increases pressure in the rail by reducing the return flow back into the tank. The fpr is controlled by engine vacuum. It's purpose is to maintain a specific pressure differential between intake pressure and the pressure across the injectors. This is done because of the way ECU's are programmed (I don't want to get into that.) The more vacuum (more load = more vacuum) the more the FPR restricts the return flow back to the tank. More load = more fuel pressure. Stock fuel pressure regulators were designed around the parameters of the other stock fuel system components. When you upgrade the fuel pump to a higher flowing unit, the fuel pressure regulator doesn't know this. The ECU doesn't know this. Many cars DO run more rich when a higher flow capacity pump is installed, but generally the change is minor unless a high pressure intank pump is installed. Generally pressure is inverse to flow. If you want to increase pressure, you decrease flow. As related to a return fuel system, to increase fuel pressure in the fuel rail/feed line you reduce the flow of fuel back into the gas tank. The flow of a pump eventually drops once the fuel pressure reaches a high enough level. More pressure, less flow. Adding an inline fuel pump to the mix reduces the loss of flow at higher fuel pressures. An inline pump continually pressurizes the fuel system beyond what the intank pump can achieve. Adding an inline fuel pump to the mix reduces the loss of flow at higher pressures.It does not increase the flow capacity of the fuel system beyond that of the intank pumps capacity! It can only reduce the loss of flow. Therfore an inline pump is not to be used as a band-aid for instances when the intank pump is inadequate at normal pressure levels. This is why an inline pump is necessary when a FMU is used in conjunction with a stock fuel pump, as the stock fuel pump does not maintain it's flow rating at the needed pressure. FMU + Standard pressure fuel pump = wrong FMU + Inline Pump or high pressure intank = right I hope I typed everything to where it's understandable and my intended point is made. My apologies if not.

Were YOU reading anything I typed? It doesn't appear that you were. To be honest when you guys stated that an inline pump increases the flow capacity to the injectors, I pretty much stopped reading. tongue.gif [ 18. February 2004, 09:44 PM: Message edited by: the Man With No Name ]

I dont have any time to waste at the moment with this thread, but I am happy for you guys as you will be able to make a ton of money building devices that can teleport things from one place to another without any physical interaction. I will revisit this thread later. Amazing. http://forums.offtopic.com/images/smilies/bowdown.gif BTW, reducing volume loss at pressure and increasing volume at pressure are not the same thing.

Brake Specific Fuel Consumption. You guys are killing me with your theories and calculations that are incorrect! Flowing more fuel means that more fuel is being moved from the fuel tank to the fuel injector. How in the world you guys think that an inline pump can flow more fuel than the intank pump can provide is beyond me! It's physically impossible! Here is a paragraph taken from www.fuel-pumps.net on standard pressure vs high pressure fuel pumps, maybe it will help you understand the difference between pressure and flow: Walbro makes the same fuel pumps (as far as mechanical fitment is concerned) in two different styles. These styles are normally referred to as standard pressure and high pressure. This reference is a bit of a misnomer, since either pump will produce approximately the same amount of flow at standard fuel injection system pressures. However, well above the standard fuel injection system pressure the flow of the standard pressure fuel pump will drop off whereas the flow of the high-pressure fuel pump will see less impact. This is important to users who are trying to use higher fuel pressures to push more fuel through their fuel injectors than is normally done at standard fuel pressure levels. While this may be a cost-effective solution it can lead to other concerns, including safety considerations. Fuel-Pumps.net recommends that you use an injector that is able to inject the proper amount of fuel into the engine without requiring the fuel system's pressure to be increased significantly above stock levels. You guys are either over-analyzing or incorrectly applying theories, but whatever the case you are both wrong. smile.gif

The only way to be sure if there is a decrease in fuel pressure is to hook up a fuel pressure gauge. Until you do that you are just guessing as to what the problem is.

Negative ghost rider. You are wrong. smile.gif A intank fuel pump does not increase flow, it increases the pressure in a fuel system between the inline pump and the injector. If you setup two walboro 255lph fuel pumps so that they would both pump fuel into a bucket, but one of them had an inline fuel pump between it and the bucket you would find that they both flow the SAME AMOUNT OF FUEL in a given time. That is RATE OF FLOW. If you could measure the force with which the fuel was entering the bucket, the setup with the inline pump would be spitting the fuel out with more force (Pressure = a measure of force). Now, add injectors into the equation. You are increasing the flow rate at the INJECTOR with the inline pump because there is more pressure ( aka force) in the fuel system forcing (there's that word again) more fuel through the injector per pulsewidth than that of the intank only system. Note however that the inline pump is not increasing the flow capacity to the injector! Hence the limitations of the inline pump band-aid! Ways to increase pressure in a return fuel system are to restrict the return flow, or use an inline pump or higher pressure intank pump. In your first paragraph you said: " If you are pumping a fluid, and it is a balanced system, and you increase the amount of flow at the outlet until the pressure falls, you MUST INCREASE FLOW in order to reestablish the original pressure. " Using a fuel injection system as an example, since thats what we're concerned with here..an inline pump is a band-aid to overcome injectors that are too small. When you upgrade the fuel system you are doing so because the engine demands more fuel to safely make more power. Once the injectors are upgraded they can/will flow more fuel than the intank/inline combo can provide to them thus the need to replace the intank pump with one (or multiple) that has an increased flow capacity.

As already stated an inline pump doesn't increase the volume of fuel that is pumped, but it increases fuel pressure thus injecting more fuel per injector pulsewidth. On a heavily modded car an inline pump is not the way to go. Excessive pressure could cause injector failure or fuel line rupture, not to mention less than optimal fuel atomization.

You won't reach 200whp with stock pistons naturaully aspirated. You can turbo a Type-R as long as your tuning is good and you can maintain reasonable cylinder pressure. The best Integra for modding IMO is the Integra LS. It's considerably cheaper than a GSR and is excellent for boost. Keep in mind that I don't believe in driving anything without a turbo. It's hard (and expensive) to go really fast naturally aspirated with a small motor. By time you did i/h/e, cams and bottom end work you could be going faster with a turbo for the same price.

A used motor is going in, we are installing the metal HG and ARP bolts on it. The head won't need machining (As long as everything checks out).

I dont think a auto AWD will see 300@wheels on a 16G.

Here you go Let me know which one you decide to go with, I can probably work out a deal for you.