slow4now

Vibration - Could be a tire that is out of round (slipped belt), a wheel that needs balanced or a wheel that is bent. A vibration while driving that can be felt in the steering wheel is a front wheel problem, if it's a vibration you feel more through the seat of your pants it's a rear wheel. If it's a vibration under breaking it's warped rotors. That's just to begin, you need to be more specific and the car realy needs to be looked at to be 100 perecent sure of the problem. You'll need to have the Check Engine Light pulled to even begin to find out what it is. If the truck drives fine otherwise it could be something stupid like a loose gas cap. Try tightening the gas cap, after the vehicle has been run a few times the CEL will go off if that was the problem. Also, make sure the CEL is in fact on and it isn't something silly like the maintenance light.

LOL. "Dealership" belts won't go flying off. They were good enough for his car new, have served him well up to this point, and he should get something else? I've got Napa belts on the Nissan (because the Nissan belts aren't available over here) and they squeal like little piggies. They are about two months old! You have no idea how many cars I've seen where the customer complained of a noise, and it was a noisy aftermarket belt. The brands you recommended may work well, they may not. I know for a fact the Nissan/VW belts will. But what do I know. smile.gif

Oops, you obviously want to go to a VW dealer to get OEM belts for a Passat. smile.gif

OEM belts, at any Nissan dealership. smile.gif

I got dibs on the RB26DETT.

1-800-Dentmen The rest should buff right out!

What are you using as your vacuum source for the BOV? Tightening the adjustment screw will only add more tension to the spring making the BOV more difficult to open.

Does it "sound" like it has a compression issue? See if it's getting spark or fuel and then go from there.

The air compressor went out huh? How convenient. I've seen too many people get ripped off. You may want to get a second opinion before dropping that kind of money.

WERD. People try to save money in the wrong areas of a build-up, and then wonder why the car doesn't run for very long. Cheaping out now will cost more in the long run.

No fair, you must type faster than me!

I'm not too familiar with BMW's, but graemlins/bsflag.gif On any car I've ever seen so equiped, the charcoal cannister is component of the EGR system. Components of AC systems: Compressor, Discharge Hose, Condensor, Liquid lines, Filter/Reciever/Drier, Evaporator, suction hose, Thermo Switch. That's it in a nutshell. If you can, verify what he is telling you and then maybe we can better assist you.

If worse comes to worse, you could run a jumper wire in place of the fuse and look for smoke. redface.gif Yes, I'm being serious.

Running a coolant line for it isn't absolutely necessary. You don't have to bother but it will keep the turbo cooler (obviously).

If it's been a while since the car has been aligned, it would be a good idea to get it done to save any uneven wear on your new tires. If you don't care, than don't bother. smile.gif

From the information you are giving me, he needs a new O2 sensor. He could reset the light and see if it recodes down the road. I will have to check up using a jumper-wire on them, I wasn't aware of being able to do that on OBDII cars but I guess if you have a PGM Tester handy why would you?

How is he pulling a DTC on a 2000 Prelude? You have to have a PGM tester, the DTC's are 4 digit codes.

What year/model? IF it were the gas cap it would have a code for Fuel Cannister EVAP Leak. It sounds like a bad O2 sensor to me, but could you clarify what the code was? Just a code 61 or was it something else also?

Who did you beat to get there? Oh that's right. tongue.gif

AKA Cable Reel in "other" circle's. smile.gif That's my bet as well.

Check the fluid level. You will find that it is probably completely empty. If it isn't empty, you have air in the system somewhere and need to bleed it. Next check around the clutch pedal and slave cylinder for leaks. If neither is leaking, check the line from the slave cylinder to the master cylinder looking for leaks in the lines and at all connections.

Get a long, thin but solid coat-hangerish wire of some sort and go in through the other side of the differential and press the snap ring down from behind. In other words, go in through the hole that is left from having removed the other axle...and press the snap ring down. When you get it down, have someone else pry the axle out.

You said you tuned your AEM no problem, I would think you could tune Hondata.

I would call that blowing up. smile.gif

Well the 305 is a turd of a motor. I'm an import guy and even I know that. I think the cheapest mod would be a 350, they can be had for dirt cheap. The price and power output depending on the year and mileage of the motor. He could throw it in stock or modded and it would certainly be a lot faster than even a modded 305. My vote is motor swap. smile.gif