slow4now

TW Sensor = Thermal Water Sensor First make sure the starter is getting power. If it is but it doesn't crank then it's a safe bet you need a starter. If your dash lights don't even come on I would start with the ignition switch. Make sure you are getting spark when you crank it over, if not you'll need to start testing ignition components. I just tossed the TW Sensor out there IF your car has one, it's common for cars not to start when they are warm if it's bad. It will lean out the air fuel mixture so much that the car won't start.

The reason I havent talked to you on AIM is because everytime you've IM'd me I've been at work. tongue.gif I work 3:30pm to midnight. Let me know what your schedule is like, I may have time to do it either saturday or sunday. Later.

TW sensor.

A cracked coating on a piston will cause the piston to melt (heat gets in from the crack but cannot be transfered to the surrounding metal because of the coating). Use at your own risk!

That's ok, they used NX kits in the sequal. Spraying anymore than a 50-60 shot on a D16 is asking for it IMO.

I've forgotten more about Hondas then you will ever know. I've diagnosed other peoples "swaps" when they've had problems. Matter of fact I bet I work on more Hondas in a day than you do in a year.Since you obviously have problems figuring this out, if you have a hole cut into your hood with your engine sticking out of it like I've heard yours described, it's ghetto. I don't care why it's like that, it is ghetto. Nobody told me it was ghetto, I heard your engine sticks out of the hood and decided myself that it is ghetto. I had a turbo Civic, now I have an sr20det powered 240sx and all were done cleanly. I work on Hondas for a living. So to say that I find it amusing when YOU tell ME to get a clue about what I'm talking about, is an understatement. Heed your own advice.

If the automatics that honda makes were worth a darn in a performance environment, do you think people would be racing the manuals?

And we've all heard how ghetto your install is. No thanks. I'm sure you have the axles aligned properly and everything.

But then he would be just another DSM guy slowing down the lanes by blistering his car all over the track.

Andrew with the blue EVO is a BMW mechanic. I forget his screen name, check the 270 cruise thread in kills.

Get a Tial, they work great.

1)Tial 2) HKS Racegate 3) Deltagate

I hope all he wants is 300hp at the crank because he isn't going to get it at the wheels on the stock turbo.

Some Napa's and Autozones can do it.

Where's he going to take it, the Nissan dealership? You have a PM SweetSilvia. smile.gif

If the dyno run wasn't done on Brian's dyno (Mobile Chassis Dyno on the board) than it doesn't count.

Sounds pretty good, I can't imagine the stock turbo is good for much more power than that. I'm sure Fush or someone else will have a thing or two to say.

Did you get this taken care of? If not I can help you with it sometime. Later.

Just use carb cleaner, 3M makes the best stuff.

You can tap a relay to try to get it to work, or pull it out and use a jumper wire to jump acrossed the terminals bypassing it entirely. Check your brake light switch.

Have you checked your spark plug gap or tried gapping the plugs tigheter?

I would get ahold of a Nissan dealer and ask them where they brain to the alarm is hidden. You could have them fax you a picture or you could go to a dealer to look at their installation instructions. If you remove the brain, your horn should still work. If it's a built in alarm, I'm not sure what to tell you. Hope that helps.

First of all Zilvia sucks, I had an argument with a admin over there and even though he was wrong the other morons followed him like sheep. Do a search for user infamous240..lol If you want the Z32 front brakes, you will need... A pair of Z32 front calipers,Z32 front rotors a set of s14 hubs, front stainless brake lines from ppdm-racing.com ...you can use the S14 rotors I believe, or I THINK you can redrill the stock rotors. Rear - Z32 rear hubs, pair of S14 rear rotors. The only real point to doing the 5 lug conversion this way is to use the Z32 front brakes. Not using the Z32 front brakes is a waste of time IMO. I'm sure there are other ways to do it though. Hope that helps.

I wouldn't run more than 12 without sleeving the block, and even that may be pushing it.

It's been my experience that they are junk. When I owned a Maxima I tried them out, the car ran like crap (like it was on 5 cylinders) until I changed them out. I've also had many customers complain of poor running vehicles when the +4's ended up being the cause of their problems. Stay awaw from them!