slow4now

Go to Pepboys and purchase a "Spill-Free Funnel". It's a funnel that has a radiator cap adapter. You sit that on top of the radiator filler kneck with coolant in it, and let the truck idle for a while. Any air in the system will bleed out through the funnel and then instantly be replaced with coolant. Make sure you have your heater on full blast. That should take care of the problem.

Stick with the B18C, it's one of the best small-displacement motors ever designed. There is a reason that both the Integra Type-R and Civic Type R have B-series power plants....

Sounds like you have a bad ABS modulator. It won't hurt anything if you drive without ABS. Just make sure you know how to threshold brake.

Try a 50/50 mix of water and Woolite. Put it in a spray bottle, use an upholestry brush to scrub the carpet. The easiest way to check what the floor consists of is to pull up a section of it in the footwell. Ususally it's just carpet and a little bit of padding (if any).

The code should tell you which wheel speed sensor failed. Remember though not likely, a short in the wheel speed sensor wiring can cause a wheel speed sensor code.

Probably not the answer you are looking for, but if you tune with a properly calibrated wideband O2 sensor 12:1 is stoich. I would tune from 11:1 to 11.5:1 personally. I honestly have no clue what your buddies are talking about, I think they have one thing mistaken for something else. There is no "scale" for A/F ratios. I think what they may be trying to say is that elevation, intake air temp and other factors affect how much fuel is necessary to reach the proper level of tune. Say if you tune your car at 1500 ft about sea level and then drive to somewhere that is at exactly sea level, the car would need to be retuned if the method of fuel control cannot compensate for different atmospheric conditions caused by elevation changes.

A V-AFC will do very little good without other supporting mods. You set the Vtec switchover point at the RPM of which the transition will be the smoothest. If you notice a big "jump" when it engages, you havent set the engagement point to the optimal RPM. The best way (realy only proper way) to tune it is on the dyno with a wideband as previously stated.

Whats your question, maybe a "non-expert" can help. smile.gif

It's obvious that you need to re-install the wire for the mouse.

Turn the key + dash lights come on + engine doesn't turn over = dead starter

Many race cars run what we consider high compression ratio with boost on top of it (but they generally don't have to last very long). High compression ratios allow for a smaller window for tuning error. I personally don't see what you are trying to accomplish with high compression + boost + nitrous.....? The short answer boosting a motor of 9:1 CR with aluminum heads is perfectly safe, as long as it's tuned properly and you run good gas (93-94 octane). Maybe I missed some other threads, but if you can give us a better idea of what you have to work with and what your goals are we can help you better. Not all motors run the same with the same setup.

It will be fine without the coolant lines.

Sounds like you've got some bad injectors.

Probably will need a 1st and 2nd gearset.

Where at in the powerband are you making your peak torque, and where is a comparative Vortech car making it's peak torque? Generally torque is what tends to break stuff. I would think that the lack of parasitic loss and (possibly) lower shock to the drivetrain may allow you to make more power on the same bottom end as that of a vortech 5 liter. If you can get to 600whp by replacing the intake mannifold and freeing up the exhaust, I think you will be fine. IMO opening up the exhaust is "free" power (with the fact that you have to pay for it aside ) , I can't think of any negatives to doing so. Only possible downside is the turbos should spool faster, increasing low end power...which would give you more torque to snap something like a crank. Given that your bottom end has 100K on it, it's realy hard to say what will happen. Sorry, I'm not help! smile.gif

Probably just oil from the PCV Valve.

If you want quiet/stealth, go with either the Greddy SP or the Apex-i World Sport (WS). Any differences in power output amoung the different brands and models will be so negligible that I would use aesthetics and sound as a basis for which exhaust to purchase. They two I have listed have a subtle appearance and are relatively quiet and with a nice tone to them.

A 2000 Eclipse should already have projector headlights, shouldn't it?

You mean the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder? If that is stuck, you'll never get it bleed seeing as how thats where you bleed it from. You'll also never get it bleed with that clutch damper attached.The reason the pedal stays up or down is because of the air in the system. Once the system is bleed you will have pedal.

Start swapping ignition components from the old motor onto the new motor. Thats the easiest thing to do. You can't get your clutch bleed because of that stupid "Clutch Damper". It's a little metal distribution block mounted to the passenger side transmission tunnel. The line from the master cylinder goes into it, exits the other side and then loops back into it. Then the line comes back out and goes to the slave cylinder. Remove the Clutch Damper, hook the metal line from the master directly to the soft line (it will bend as needed but be careful not to snap it) for the slave cylinder and THEN bleed the clutch.

Timing has a lot to do with it.

Worn break pads will cause the brake fluid level to drop, making the brake light flicker off and on. The caliper piston has to travel further away from the caliper body because of the thinner pads to make contact with the rotor, so the fluid drops. The shaking is caused from warped rotors. Did you have the rotors replaced or resurfaced?

I can get you the code but I won't be in tommorrow. If you get me the serial # I can make a call for you on saturday to get the code. smile.gif

I concur with the exhaust leak before the O2 or an injector that isn't firing. Take a heavy scredriver and tap on the sides of all the injectors to free up any that may be stuck. If they are new injectors that is pretty likely.

Is this thing out of warranty? If it's not he needs to take it to a dealership.