slow4now

Yeah they are warped rotors. You can have them resurfaced or you can replace them. I'm not sure if you need a press to remove them or not. Hopefully Chris or someone who knows the car can tell you. smile.gif

Just do a compression test to get an idea of what condition your engine is in. That's a pretty high mileage car to be slapping a supercharger onto but if your engine is in good shape then the mileage doesn't realy matter.If your engine is in bad shape you should be able to get a good used one for about 400-600 bucks. The kit should come with a check valve and an FMU. You won't need anything beyond the FMU and a high pressure fuel pump. MAKE SURE the fuel pump you get to work in conjunction with the FMU is a high pressure pump!

I was using the Greddy "blue box" that came with my turbo kit. Stock fuel pump and stock injectors. The "secret" is timing. smile.gif

Yet I daily drove (like I stole it) a D16Y8 on 8 psi with the stock fuel system for a year, and it still purrs like a kitten. (No cracks about auto theft now!) Granted it wasn't a very big turbo, but it was also a D series engine and not a b-series (i.e. stonger bottom end). smile.gif

Your idle speed may be too low.

Why is this in the tech forum?

I know this sounds obvious, but I would call up an electricians supply store. They may have what you need.

It converts toilets into urinals.

Sorry, I actually meant undersized. smile.gif IMO, anyone that is asking about the Greddy kit probably hasn't done enough research as to where they can piece together their own kit. Not everyone is on the same skill level. For most people a Drag kit is the best option, no it isn't perfect, but it's convenient and priced reasonably.

It also blew up and was running dangerously lean. graemlins/jerkit.gifsmile.gif

The Greddy kit for the Integra GSR is overpriced and the turbo is oversized. Only buy that kit if you are concerned with legality (and living in Westerville you don't need to worry about it).The price of the Greddy turbo kit DOES NOT include an intercooler! So the kit ends up being around 4G's... Go with a Drag, Max-Rev etc. instead.

Could have a bad wheel sensor, you're almost guaranteed that the ABS isn't working. If you don't care about the ABS then you would have to pull the bulb to get rid of the light, otherwise someone will have to pull the DTC and reset it for you.

Are you going to the Supra meet, or are you going to stay home and hook up your flaming exhaust kit?

Just tear the heat shields off.

Yes they do. There will be an arrow on the sidewall pointing in the direction of "rotation". If mounted on the wheel properly there are tread blocks that will always be on the inside no matter which side of the vehicle they are on. Thats why they are directional after all. smile.gif

Check ignition and cam timing, check the TPS sensor. Look for vacuum leaks.

He needs to figure out which part of fuel/ignition/air he isn't getting. Unless there is a hampster in the intake, he is getting air. So either he is getting too much fuel, not enough fuel or no spark. If there is no spark backtrack the ignition system until you find the "broken" link. In this case it's usually a bad ignitor or coil.Hope that helps.

Possible bent wheel or bad tires...

When she turns the ignition but it doesn't start... does it turn over (crank over)? Do the dash lights come on?

WERD, what kind of van? I used to have an Astro on which I had to replace the starter.

You're welcome! I'm not sure if my boss told ya, but you don't have Honda Care...but we took care of the cost on the Upper Control Arm and Lower Ball Joint. Just be sure to bring your car to Hugh White for service.

Very strange. Most cars are lucky to idle with the MAFS unplugged.

I think the paint manufacturer supplies that information, but I'm not sure....