slow4now

The tires won't work the way they were intended if you have them rotating the wrong direction. They won't evacuate water properly, and the tread blocks meant to be on the outside will be on the inside. As long as you don't push the limits of the tires you should be okay. You also may notice the steering will pull to one side.

I assume the car has more than 36,000 miles on it? If not, and the purchase date was fewer than 3 years ago that it would be covered under warranty. It's hard to say what the squeak is, most likely it's a balljoint. If you want stop into Hugh White Honda between the times of 7am and 2:30pm and I would be glad to take a look at it. Ask for Ricky.

Just a guess but the intermediate shaft may be sliding out a little bit when making right hand turns...I've never heard of it happening but I suppose it's possible. That realy isn't something that can be diagnosed on the internet. Try moving the front tires to the rear to see if it helps the shaking (it doesn't matter that they're new).

Oops, thought he was talking about the Civic. redface.gif

If your car is lowered and you don't have a camber kit, their probably isn't enough adjustment to "fix it".

I'll look into those fans, thanks a lot for the input. smile.gif

I was wondering what everyone thinks about Perma-Cool electric fans, and more specifically the temperature probes that come with them. Are they reliable? Someone I know says that they are not reliable but I've read otherwise.Any input is appreciated. Thanks! smile.gif

With the plugs out it isn't necessary to crank it by hand because a) you probably aren't going to be able to crank it by hand fast enough to get any water out and b) you won't get any compression if the plugs are out. If the water did any damage, it already has.

Pull the spark plugs and have someone crank the engine over. Watch for water to fly out of the spark plug holes. Keep cranking it until there isn't anymore water coming out, pausing to let the starter cool down. You can also remove the distributor cap at the same time, but unplug it so there aren't sparks going everywhere. It should fling any water that was in it out. Did water get into the passenger compartment?

graemlins/jerkit.gif [ 04. April 2003, 11:50 PM: Message edited by: bigbabyjesus ]

Remove the tire, remove the codder pin through the castle nut holding the tie rod,remove the castle nut, remove the two bolts/nuts holding the strut to the knuckle, remove the nut holding the brake line to the strut, remove three top strut nuts holding it to the strut tower.Installation is reverse of removal. I think that's it. Should be pretty much the same for all four corners give or take a couple of steps.

It's not a realy big deal. Remove axles, remove exhaust a-pipe, remove starter, maybe remove battery and intake, remove bolts to tranny then remove tranny...something along those lines. No idea how long it would take you... smile.gif

You don't NEED a wire harness, but it simplifies things and you won't have to cut into any factory wiring. Not that cutting wiring is a big deal or anything, but you could potentially cause some expensive damage. I had a customer try to install a remote starter himself on a 02 Oddyssey. Well he drilled a hole onto the main left engine wiring harness! Ten hours of labour and about $1200 later I bet he wished he would've left it to a professional. redface.gif

A pump that's working intermittently is no good in my book.

My guess is you are using AutoZone pads? Generally speaking aftermarket pads will squeal, I don't know how true it is for domestic vehicles but it is for imports. There is usually a reason the parts are cheaper.

TW sensor.

I was just yanking your chain. tongue.gif

But F-bodies can't turn.

Bridgetstone Potenza S-03's.

Try here. I've never ordered from them, but I've heard they are reliable. Just don't believe everything Larry tries to tell you.

He probably isn't talking about true coilovers, I bet he is talking about springs with an adjustable perch.

I have personally use Columbus Powder Coating. They do good work, but I'm not sure if they can meet your price point and they are located on the westside, right off of Fisher Rd just west of Wilson Rd. Columbus Custom Powder Coating 915 Distribution Dr # B Columbus, OH 43228 276-6181

Be wary of the HKS Titanium exhausts, I know of at least one that the only part of it thats Titanium is the exhaust tip....JIC Magic is good stuff as well, forgot about them. The primary benefit of ball bearing turbos is found at road courses under passing manuevers, not at the drag stip. The cost probably doesn't justify the means if you just want to go faster in a straight line. I would love to see a dyno comparison between a floating bearing and ball bearing turbo with all other specs being the same. Hopefully Renner will see this, maybe he has something to add about ball bearing turbos.

The HKS is a pull type BOV as opposed to a push type like all of the other BOV's. By design it cannot leak at high boost or at idle/off throttle.This is most important on car's that use a MAF meter, as it will minimize the poor driveability characteristics from venting metered air to atmosphere (HKS does have a recirculation adapter availble now though!) The Blitz DD is a very nice choice as well if you want something that not nearly as many people have. I am using a Greddy Type-S right now, I realy like the sound but it leaks. Hua, there is a reason the HKS is popular. Oh and if you wait to hear Howards BOV, you will probably only have one chance if you weren't out last weekend....he only drives the car like twice a year. tongue.gif EvilEvo, if I read correctly on that other board your car came with 3" exhaust piping, so I don't know how much of a gain you would see with an exhaust.

Look for the Apex-i GT Spec, the Apex-i N1 Dual (not sure if they have the Dual for your car), the Blitz Nurspec and maybe the HKS Dragger II...at a quick glance (with research for other cars as well) those are my picks for best performance. EDIT: I forgot to ask you, do you have any idea which parts are interchangeable with the JDM Evolution VII? I'm sure the emissions equipment is different, you realy should try to find a message board for other EVO owners (if there is one). [ 13. March 2003, 12:39 PM: Message edited by: bigbabyjesus ]