Nitrousbird

WTF was the guy yelling about at the end of the video?

I may be biased because they provide me my paycheck, but I've loved my WOW service well before I ever worked for them. Can't say the same for that piece of crap Insight service I had. BTW, it's cable, internet, AND phone now. As for DirectTV launching another dish, unless they have more bandwidth to use for said dish granted by the FCC, or are able to compress the data further, it won't do anything to allow for more channels. More dishes != more bandwidth. Though I'm not a big fan of dishes anyway; when I lived on campus, we had DirectTV. Setup correctly w/ VERY good signal strength on a clear day, and had a clear view of the sky. Plane flys overhead = dish goes out for a couple seconds. Storming out = no TV for you. It definately got annoying....I can honestly say I never watched a single movie on it start to finish without at least one hiccup in the picture. Perhaps the newer dishes are better than what was offered 4 years ago.

Damn, I figured someone would name at least one of my top two favorite bands. Sevendust (definately my favorite) Cold There are a ton of other bands as well (Type O Negative, Life of Agony, Static X, etc. and tons of 80's stuff), but Sevendust and Cold are always at the top of my list. And Cold's new Album comes out the end of this month, Sevendust's in Oct.

Mototron offers a 60# High Impedance injector now, and I've heard they either off, or will offer soon, a 65#.

I call it poor money management, but that's just me.

Not bad.....for a 4 banger.

Since I work for WOW, I get everything free (all premiums, HD stuff, HD DVR, 6Mbps internet, etc.). For my HD, I get: - CBS HD - NBC HD - UPN HD - WOSU HD - Discovery HD Theater - ESPN HD - HD Net - HD Net Movies - Wealth TV HD - NFL HD (just released yesterday) - HBO East HD - Cinemax East HD - Starz East HD 13 HD channels isn't too bad. Warner doesn't offer Wealth HD, Cinemax HD, Starz HD, NFL HD....but does offer TNT HD (though I doubt much of their programming is even in HD), IN HD 1 and 2, and Showtime HD (I hate Showtime, so no loss for me). As for Insght. They were suckers and paid the outlandish fee to carry FOX and ABC (that's why WOW and Warner and don't have it). They carry CBS and NBC as well, and a bunch of WOSU channels that no one watches (WOSU-34 (PBS), WOSU, WOSU (Kids), WOSU (You), WOSU (Plus)) and Universal HD, then your ESPN HD, HD Nets, and Discovery HD, and HBO/Showtime HD. As far as the channels I prefer as HD channels, it's CBS, NBC, Discovery, HBO, and Starz HD. I really don't watch the other ones, though will probably use the NFL HD a bit. Too bad I don't have an HD TV; just a standard 50" that I downconvert the signal to work; still looks good, and I at least get the widescreen picture that I prefer, and stuff in 5.1 Dolby Digital. As far as local cable companies go, I feel we offer the best variety of channels people will want to watch in HD.

I'm all signed up and paid now. Not bad so far; 17 entrants in less than a day.

I don't get it. If I didn't like having someone kick me in the balls, and every time I went a certain place during my free time I got kicked in the balls......I'd stop going there! I wouldn't just bitch about it and hope eventually that they will stop kicking me in the balls.

Have you considered used. I bought a matching Kenmore washer/dryer set for $325 over 3 years ago. Have worked great, are your average middle of the line units, and have defiantely paid for themselves by now. In good condition too. Purchased them from a guy who had a listing in the Columbus dispatch. He purchased broken sets, repaired them, and sold them for profit. I felt I got a good deal. I can't remember who the guy was anymore, other than it was on the SW side of town. Otherwise, I bought my fridge for a really good deal at Appliance Mart.

I requested that Friday off (since I know I won't have it scheduled off; I'll have to wait until the new schedule comes out for that Monday), so I'll register/pay once the day off gets approved. I'll finally have the car in running condition to race there for a change.

That's why they invented the

I've seen your car....I wouldn't take it there. I could care less that I'm a mod/super mod here. If you ever noticed, I use to for site maintance, and don't really censor people, remove threads, etc. (unless asked by another CR leader to do so). if bein cool at the game is typing w/ your mad skillzzz, I'LL PASS I'm not bitter, I just make observations. Some people just find it offensive that I share them. You must be one of them. Edit: N/M, now I see why you are hurt about me being a mod.

My roomate did something to the PC is seems that I need to fix, so I lost my long post detailing everything for you. To summarize: - I don’t work w/ power at my job. 1V DC max out of the tap. Otherwise, I don’t touch cust. Electric wiring, and only do common ground bonding. That’s it, I’m not an electrician. I understand AC/DC concepts, but am not experienced w/ house electrical wiring. - HP = TN/5252 - Figured out that 1MPH ~ 58RPM - HP = (T*(MPH*58))5252 - Point I didn’t make in that thread was over 1500HP is just a simply software patch to the dyno program, yet dyno’s never seem to dyno over that, which leads me to think there is another reason behind it (perhaps unreliable torque readings at a certain level). - You made a post about leaving, then come back. “RAH RAH RAH, THIS SITE SUCKS, I’M LEAVING” to come back 2 weeks later. Just an observation, nothing personal. You aren’t the first or last person to do this, but just not posting, or posting “I’m taking a break” would definitely be the better thing to do. Don’t you agree??

I had someone tell me to just steal a panel from a construction site. Luckily for construction site people, I'm not a theif. I was talking to one of my guy's at work today, who used to do electrical work. From what I described to him, he said to upgrade to anything worthwhile, I have to replace it all. Power feeding into the panel from the meter, and the wiring from the meter to the mast = have to have certified electrician do it and be inspected. For now, I don't have the $$ to do that. Once I decide to start wiring 220 in places and adding more stuff, I'll have to. For now, I'll just keep what I have.

The site sucks so much you just couldn't stay away it seems..........

Hey, if you want to buy the new panel and spend the time wiring it up for me, I'll buy the pizza and beer.

Bet he is faster than you. Put your money where your mouth is.

TTT, a new public game just started. I'm currently ranked #3 in Cleveland (area I chose), #31 w/ all players. I'm sure that will change in a few minutes. I built myself up, then started attacking everyone I could.....I'm sure there are plenty of pissed off people waiting to destroy me.

Nothing got brighter when the other lights got dimmer. Swapping the 60A breaker for the 50A seemed to have fixed the problem as far as power goes; all the lights are their normal brightness, and everything off of those circuits seems to be working right. All of my neutrals at the breaker seemed tight (didn't take a screwdriver to the terminals, but did shake the wires around a bit). My troublesome outlet was tight on everything, and is definately right w/ the new outlet I swapped in. I'm curious as to why moving my fridge to another breaker fixed the buzzing sound. The wiring in this house is definately screwy; what each ciruit has doesn't make a whole lot of sense. My house is a mixed ranch/split level (3 levels total); and the circuit feeding the fridge also fed my crawlspace light, lowest level electrical outlets (but NOT lights), and only 2 of the second level outlets. The wire to the fridge outlet seems to be a dedicated wire; I couldn't find any other outlets/lights that were off of that line. I am going to bring my outlet tester from work home tomorrow to make sure all of my outlets are wired correctly (far quicker than the 3 multimeter measurement at each outlet to check). I do appreciate you looking into this w/ your electrican buddies. I don't want anything bad to happen to my house!

Leaving a note on the guy's windshield probably would have been your best bet in this case.

I'm curious where the 2000HP number really came from (other than what someone graphiced on the video). The dyno maxed out at 1500HP. At a 20% driveline loss, which I doubt was that high since glides are efficient as far as auto's go), that would only be 1800 crank HP. Obviously it is higher than 1500 RWHP....but how much? What block is that car running?? A C5-R block is a production GM block, as are all Bowtie blocks, but it's not really a block put into a production vehicle stock. How streetable is "streetable." Remember, we have 7 second street cars running around in COLUMBUS. Anyone who even tries to say a car at that power level isn't impressive(especially anyone on this board) needs to get their head checked.

Mike and Mario do not post here anymore. They have a self-imposed a ban on posting here. I'm fairly sure I can convince Mario to run Colt-fella from a dig, if he puts a little $$ on it (I'm sure Mario could give 2 shits about a roll race, so don't ask).

I'm driving home from work tonight, get home ~6:45, thinking I'll eat some dinner, and work a little on the Jimmy (motor swap in slow progress). Roomate is here, says her PC won't boot up, and something seems funny with the lights.. All the upstairs lights are really dim; everything downstairs is fine. Hmmm, turn more lights on, dimmer they get, until everything is out....then they stay out. Mind you I've owned this place over 3 years, and bought it off the original owners from 1968, and I've never had any electrical problems w/ the place. Bust out my multimeter, and only reading 5V AC on all the room electric outlets that have dim lights (and a few other outlets). After plenty of work narrowing down crap at the circuit breaker, I found out it is the main breaker that feeds the bottom half of the breaker panel is bad on the right side. Nice; I think that damn thing is the original 1968 model put in here when the house was built (old style Pushmatic for those wondering). My circuit panel is freaking stupid. It doesn't have a main breaker; rather is had 4 rows of breakers powering various things (AC unit, garage, stove wiring, etc.). Then it breaks off, and that's where this breaker that went bad feeds everything else....freaking stupid design. Go to Home Depot, they only carry 50A instead of the 60A I have. Lowes is the same deal....damn. Ended up buying the 50A (nothing heavily loaded on this breaker anyway). Find that it doesn't fit. I have a buddy I know that knows his stuff about house electric (I know AC/DC circuits and all that jive, but jack about home wiring). He said I bought a newer style "Pushmatic" breaker, and had to just grind down the plastic tab on it. Did that, worked like a charm, fixed the problem. BUT THEN ANOTHER FREAKING PROBLEM SHOWS UP!!!. Turn everything back on, and I hear this buzzing sound from the breaker box (same buzzing sound you hear from street lights). Narrow it down to one 20A breaker. More narrowing down later (this takes a while), the one line that feeds just the fridge circuit is what was causing the buzzing....only does it when fridge is running. Run to store again, buy new outlet. Replace, check wiring both ends, looks good. STILL BUZZING. Now nothing is getting warm or smelling, so I'm not too worried, but still want to fix it. End up putting that line on another 20A breaker that doesn't run much, and the buzzing went away. Of course, this took all together almost 4 hours out of my evening. Now I gotta call my buddy again to see if what I did w/ the line in the breaker is cool, or if there is anything else I should check. Ugh....only positive thing is I learned a few things tonight.

I'd still rather have the Viper.