Nitrousbird

Ummm, Ford is the dark side (I would know, I own both). What kind of pricing does he have? I have a friend that will be needing a cage this winter; but it has to be extremely well done (through the dash, hug everything extremely tightly, quality clean welds, chrome moly, etc.).

Moving to proper forum......

Moving to proper forum......

Not if they are near stock.

Go for it. I've never quit a job unless I had a better paying job to go to. But if the pay is better, do what you've got to do. Of course your boss could offer you another pay raise.........

Yes, Firehawk pics. Firehawks are the rare goodness. Go over to the board whose server is hosting this website: Central Ohio F-body Association Firehawks are about the only type of 4th Gen we have been lacking.

Yes, HD packaging will add to your cable bill. Nature of the beast. For that price range, you are pretty much stuck w/ either a small flat panel LCD (or a slightly bigger, but POS flat panel LCD), or a rear projection CRT, which is probably what you will want. Don't buy the cheapest CRT you can find; it will look all pretty on display w/ the HD content being fed through it; toss some regular digital or analog channels through a cheapo HD CRT TV and you'll its true abilities will shine through loud and "clear." (clear being fuzzy, distored, and looking like crap). Since I work for WOW and get it all free, I get all the HD packages we have. I pretty much like it for the letterbox formatting of movies and such, as I down-convert the signal for my non-HD 50" TV. But true HD recorded content on a good HD TV looks amazing.

- Yes it's been posted. - Yes the rear end is still way too fat on that thing. - Just say no to retro - Might be 450HP, but since the 03-04 Cobra's were heavier than the 03-04 GT's, and the 05 GT's are as heavy as the 03-04 Cobras, it's safe to say this will be the heaviest of them all, offsetting some if not all of the HP gain. - Will be very interesting where this thing is priced. 03-04's were 35k. 05 C6's are 44k..........

I'll quote myself smile.gif You've seen my garage; there is definately no lift. We pulled Tim's motor from underneath too. smile.gif Nothing but your very average hand tool selection, basic air tools (not needed, but are nice), a couple jacks/stands, and your normal Advanced Auto purchased engine hoist. The BMF and Daron are both eye witnesses to the projects for both. Mine wouldn't have taken as long had I not pulled some extra stuff, as I was doing other things at the time.

I'm just curious if it makes the game easier or harder (comparing same tracks/settings with just a normal Sony Dual-Shock controller).

Niffty, but for 15k, that's just too much cash for that. My biggest complaint is the screen doesn't wrap around you; in a normal car you can look side-to-side and see what's going on. Of course the movements are too dramatic as well, but that's an easy fix. The screen thing isn't. I guess if I was mega rich I'd get one.

That's from the Man Show. Several years old, but pretty funny.

They aren't hard to pull from underneath. You can pull them from the top as well, you just have to pull off a few extra things to do it that way. I've pulled my LT1 from underneath; wasn't a big deal, though it took several hours. And you don't need a lift to do it either.

As a brother, you should hope she gets married and/or knocked up by a rich guy, because she is screwed otherwise! Sadly, that's all I can hope for for my sister too.

In general, auto's are preferable in drag racing.

"Subway, Eat Fresh."

Might want to get that looked at; the car is under warranty, right?? My Formula's e-brake worked flawlessly until I snapped my DS at the track a couple years ago and damaged the cable bracket; it's to the point it doesn't work at all now, and I need to put a new bracket in. My 3rd Gen Camaro's worked flawlessly the whole time I owned it.

You are fine. What are you supposed to do, sit there for an hour waiting for him to come back and give you a ticket?? Screw that!

It definately wasn't fully dead; I tossed my jumper cables on it, and it could get some power to my dome light n' such, but definately not enough to power anything up or even try to start the car. Mario just let me borrow the charger. I'm going to try 24 hours worth on 2amps and see how that does; might bump it up to 10 amps for a couple hours after that if it doesn't fully charge, then go from there. BTW, Mario has never posted under me or Tim's screen name. Don't know if he's ever posted under any other screen names; CR doesn't usually come up in our conversations (I usually hang out w/ him and a few other guys drinking our minds away on Sat. nights ).

I'm prepping my car to be ready to come out from it's winter hibernation in a couple of weeks. Battery #1: My couple year old (out of warranty) Napa battery was in the car. Jump started the car, good voltage. Ran it for several minutes, quick drive around the block. Shut car off, and the battery doesn't even have enough power to light the dome light (car has a good 140am alternator on it too). Battery #2: My old Blazer's battery; battery is at least 5 years old. Jumped fine, good voltage, this one had enough to power the dome light, but not enough to start the car. Time for a new battery. My roomate has an Optima Yellow Top out of his SS. He is going w/ a different battery for his new setup, and said he would sell it to me. The battery was used to start his car maybe a dozen times. It is a little over 2 years old, and has been sitting on a wooden shelf the whole time (was set their fully charged, never on a charger though). I'm taking it over to Mario's tonight and putting it on his charger for a day's worth of trickle charging. ASSUMING the battery will hold a good charge, what is it worth?? Neither of us knew for sure. What is the genuine FAIR price, I don't want to overpay, and don't want to rip him off either.

I like them a lot better than your black rims. They look like they belong on the car, and don't have that "tuner" look to them.

That's the exact same rear I have in my Formula (assuming that's the 800# HD posi, and the HD cover, which I'm guessing it is). Good rear end I've been happy with; I've had it for 4 years and the only problem I've ever was a pressed on outter bearing leaked a bit of fluid; easy $30 fix and never had the problem again. That's a good price too, as I got mine for about what he paid, and that was better than GP prices I could get.

That should be, as Ford uses the 5x4.5" bolt pattern, which equates to 114.3mm

Well, you are looking at two totally different tires. The Nitto DR's are a great streetable, daily driveable DR. They are definately the worst traction wise compared to the other DR's and bias-ply drag tires, but last MUCH longer than the others too. QTP's/ET Streets are definately a drag-only tire you can drive on the street a bit, but don't get caught in the rain with them. The new tire to consider really is the Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial. A lot of people are saying these hook better than the ET Streets/QTP's. I'd personally feel more comfortable with a radial on a FWD car. They offer a 255/50/16 that you might be able to fit on your car. BFG DR's....totally pointless/outclassed tire now the MT DR's are out. They don't have the life to be regular street tires, and why use these when the MT DR's hook better. IMO, Nitto's for regular street car use (I used to run them when I was daily driving the Formula, and they were great, even in the rain), and MT DR's for more serious drag racing. But if you can make the Nitto's hook, then the MT's would be overkill.

Does you car currently have any sort of muffler on it at all?? And how much quieter do you want it (me being anti-rotary sound, I'd personally want it silent, but that's probably not what you are looking for). I have dual Dynomax bullet mufflers. They do quiet my Formula down a bit, but the car is still loud. But for around $35 bucks, it's not like you are throwing money away either. Bullets are easy to fit and flow well, but they won't quiet the car down a lot. Pretty much all the other bullets cost more money than the Dynomax (some into the $100-150/each range), which is why the Dynomax is so popular. I've gotten a number of compliments on how they sound, but that's a GEN-II SBC, not a rotary, so results may vary.