Nitrousbird

Alright, I'll set a price: $900. I came to that price because I can sell the parts that are fairly easy to remove AND would still allow the truck to be towed away (well, I'd have to get a set of junk rims/tires, but that's easy) for that amount of money. BTW, the truck DOES move under it's own power. I had to move it from where it was hit in the road to the side of the road, and it moved just fine....I didn't know I wasn't going to be able to drive it home until we saw the tranny leaking. Even if you don't want to fix it, I'm sure you could part this truck out and make $1500+ on it fairly easily. All of the glass is good, running motor, tranny is probably only something minor, good rear end, fresh front suspension, etc. People on an S-series board would eat that up. But I need the money ASAP, and don't have time to be parting it.

High Risk: Your PM box is full....and the offer you made I could get just for the rims/tires, so I'll have to pass. smile.gif

High Risk: Your PM box is full....and the offer you made I could get just for the rims/tires, so I'll have to pass. smile.gif

Well, the guy's insurance company that hit my Blazer totalled it. I bought it back, as the buy back was cheap. They were screwing me out of the aftermarket parts on the truck, so I had to do this to somehow keep my head above water on this crappy deal. Info: 93 Chevy S-Blazer, 2 door, 2WD. A/C (needs charged and new evaporator), 195HP CPI 4.3L motor (NOT the low powered TBI motor), 4L60E tranny, 3.08 open rear. 127,526 on the clock. Most people that have ridden it this truck have commented on it being quicker than they thought it would be. Aftermarket parts: - American Eagle 203 Rims, 16x7, with 235/60/16 tires (including tire warranties from Discount Tire and lifetime balancing) - Belltech 3" front drop springs, 3" rear drop blocks - Edelbrock Headers and Y-pipe - Dynomax Cat-back - U-haul Class 2 hitch w/ wiring harness - Autogage Mini oil/volt/water gauge cluster (garbage) - Energy Suspension Swaybar Bushings - Tinted Windows In the past year, I've also done (all new items): a full tune up, alternator, front lower and upper balljoints, tie rod ends (innter and outer), swaybar endlinks, ignition control module, fuel pump, new (not turned) front rotors/pads, wheel bearings, driver's door handle, driver's window regulator, water pump. The transmission was rebuilt about 2 years ago by a guy who does the race tranny's for a buddy's Mopars. Fully rebuilt w/ upgraded clutches (so I'm told) w/ rebuilt torque converter. This truck was my daily driver. As you'll see in the pics, it was hit in the rear, and push me into the vehicle in front of it. The tranny started to leak after I was hit, otherwise the truck would have been driveable. Motor starts every time, good battery, as I said, I drove it every day. I've already pulled the head unit out, but the speakers (something aftermarket) will stay. Pictures The truck now has a salvage title because of this accident since it was totalled out. EDIT: NEW PRICE: $500 firm. Nick GT was going to buy it, but seems to have lost interest. He was able to get the front end straightened out. He and my roomate took a look at the tranny, and believe it is nothing more than the pan gasket leaking. He was going to fix it and drive it. What it needs to become a driver again: - 2 new hoses for the tranny cooler; about $5 - New headlight baskets/headlights - New radiator for an auto - Tranny pan gasket (at least I've been told this, and Nick was set of that being the problem) - Rear bumper; not sure if the tailgate can be salvaged or not. - New taillights and wiring harnesses. After all of that, it could be inspected and be setup as a rebuilt title. Regardless, I want this thing out of here. I don't have the time to mess with it, and just want it gone. Just post here, PM, or e-mail me at nitrousbird@team.camaroz28.com http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/Wrecked%20Blazer/Passenger%20Side.jpg [ 05. July 2004, 11:37 AM: Message edited by: Nitrousbird ]

Well, the guy's insurance company that hit my Blazer totalled it. I bought it back, as the buy back was cheap. They were screwing me out of the aftermarket parts on the truck, so I had to do this to somehow keep my head above water on this crappy deal. Info: 93 Chevy S-Blazer, 2 door, 2WD. A/C (needs charged and new evaporator), 195HP CPI 4.3L motor (NOT the low powered TBI motor), 4L60E tranny, 3.08 open rear. 127,526 on the clock. Most people that have ridden it this truck have commented on it being quicker than they thought it would be. Aftermarket parts: - American Eagle 203 Rims, 16x7, with 235/60/16 tires (including tire warranties from Discount Tire and lifetime balancing) - Belltech 3" front drop springs, 3" rear drop blocks - Edelbrock Headers and Y-pipe - Dynomax Cat-back - U-haul Class 2 hitch w/ wiring harness - Autogage Mini oil/volt/water gauge cluster (garbage) - Energy Suspension Swaybar Bushings - Tinted Windows In the past year, I've also done (all new items): a full tune up, alternator, front lower and upper balljoints, tie rod ends (innter and outer), swaybar endlinks, ignition control module, fuel pump, new (not turned) front rotors/pads, wheel bearings, driver's door handle, driver's window regulator, water pump. The transmission was rebuilt about 2 years ago by a guy who does the race tranny's for a buddy's Mopars. Fully rebuilt w/ upgraded clutches (so I'm told) w/ rebuilt torque converter. This truck was my daily driver. As you'll see in the pics, it was hit in the rear, and push me into the vehicle in front of it. The tranny started to leak after I was hit, otherwise the truck would have been driveable. Motor starts every time, good battery, as I said, I drove it every day. I've already pulled the head unit out, but the speakers (something aftermarket) will stay. Pictures The truck now has a salvage title because of this accident since it was totalled out. EDIT: NEW PRICE: $500 firm. Nick GT was going to buy it, but seems to have lost interest. He was able to get the front end straightened out. He and my roomate took a look at the tranny, and believe it is nothing more than the pan gasket leaking. He was going to fix it and drive it. What it needs to become a driver again: - 2 new hoses for the tranny cooler; about $5 - New headlight baskets/headlights - New radiator for an auto - Tranny pan gasket (at least I've been told this, and Nick was set of that being the problem) - Rear bumper; not sure if the tailgate can be salvaged or not. - New taillights and wiring harnesses. After all of that, it could be inspected and be setup as a rebuilt title. Regardless, I want this thing out of here. I don't have the time to mess with it, and just want it gone. Just post here, PM, or e-mail me at nitrousbird@team.camaroz28.com http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/Wrecked%20Blazer/Passenger%20Side.jpg [ 05. July 2004, 11:37 AM: Message edited by: Nitrousbird ]

For the tranny, just use the cheapest ATF you can get your hands on. Alingment wise, I'd stick with the stock up front, and there are no adjustments that can be done on the rear unless you have added adjustable parts (all of the main rear end suspension parts: panhard rod, LCA's, torque arm, shocks, can be purchased from multiple supliers in adjustable form).

Sean, you have mentioned time and again how much you regreted selling your first one. Do you want to make that mistake again?

Sean, you have mentioned time and again how much you regreted selling your first one. Do you want to make that mistake again?

Anyone else?? I'll deliver it.

Anyone else?? I'll deliver it.

150 or best offer, and Reynoldsburg is on the East side of Columbus. smile.gif

150 or best offer, and Reynoldsburg is on the East side of Columbus. smile.gif

I haven't read the links, but the concepts are pretty simple. Pumps are rated at X volume at Y pressure, and as Y increases, X decreases (since the pump is now having to work against the pressure in the line). This of course is figuring identical voltages and temps in the pump. The inline pump simply helps decrease that work to push against that pressue, making Y go down. And as Y goes down......X goes up. But I do have a couple other questions. When does the inline pump become a restriction? Eventually it has to, otherwise wouldn't people simply be tossing 3 inline pumps in to keep dropping the pressure? Another thing not discussed was voltage. Lower voltage = less VOLUME the pump can flow. Another item Chris may want to consider is a Boost-A-Pump. Basically, as boost rises, this device increases voltage to the pump up to a certain amount. Of course you can't run a fuel pump at 18V all day long and expect it to last, which is why this voltage box is boost referenced. Good wiring all the way to the pump is also important. IMO, step one is to install a fuel pressure gauge. I've had one in my car for some time now, and IMO is a very essential gauge. Autometer full-sweep electric gauge, mine was about $190, and they also have one w/ a peak pressure reference, which is nice for finding where your fuel pressure tops out. smile.gif The newer units are also more convienent to install than the older unit like I have, which requires a seperate control box and more wiring.

http://cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/Copier/Copier%20Front%20-%20Small.jpg http://cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/Copier/Copier%20Left%20Inside%20-%20Small.jpg http://cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/Copier/Copier%20Top%20Right%20-%20Small.jpg http://cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/Copier/Copier%20Top%20Right%20Open%20-%20Small.jpg Click Here for more pics!! Here's the scoop. A friend of mine worked at Quizno's, and was good friends w/ the owners. The owners ended up selling the business. They had this copy machine, but it won't power up, so instead of paying to have it fixed, they gave it to my buddy. Well, 2 months later, my buddy moved to Florida. He didn't have room to take it with him, so he gave it to me since I was helping him move down there. Problem: It won't power up. From everything I could find on the net, it is the low voltage power supply (all the tests I saw to do point to this). I tried replacing all the capacitors, but that didn't nothing for it. I sent the LVPS into a place to be rebuilt, but the copy machine still won't power on, and I have this feeling that place may not have fixed it right. The high voltage side does get power. If you unplug the cables on the back that run the feed tray, it will light up the "scanner." So obviously the high voltage side is working. But the display doesn't come on, and it doesn't operate. As you can see from the pictures, it is in very good condition. Come w/ toner already in it, plus an extra toner cartridge. Has a 10-document sorter and a power stapler built-in. I've been told it worked great prior to it not powering up. When I pulled the LVPS out, everything internally looked to be in great shape. I just don't have the time/resources to put into fixing this, and could use the money, so I'm just going to sell it. Price: $125 OBO, and I'm willing to deliver it to you, as long as the distance is reasonable. [ 05. July 2004, 01:24 AM: Message edited by: Nitrousbird ]

http://cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/Copier/Copier%20Front%20-%20Small.jpg http://cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/Copier/Copier%20Left%20Inside%20-%20Small.jpg http://cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/Copier/Copier%20Top%20Right%20-%20Small.jpg http://cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/Copier/Copier%20Top%20Right%20Open%20-%20Small.jpg Click Here for more pics!! Here's the scoop. A friend of mine worked at Quizno's, and was good friends w/ the owners. The owners ended up selling the business. They had this copy machine, but it won't power up, so instead of paying to have it fixed, they gave it to my buddy. Well, 2 months later, my buddy moved to Florida. He didn't have room to take it with him, so he gave it to me since I was helping him move down there. Problem: It won't power up. From everything I could find on the net, it is the low voltage power supply (all the tests I saw to do point to this). I tried replacing all the capacitors, but that didn't nothing for it. I sent the LVPS into a place to be rebuilt, but the copy machine still won't power on, and I have this feeling that place may not have fixed it right. The high voltage side does get power. If you unplug the cables on the back that run the feed tray, it will light up the "scanner." So obviously the high voltage side is working. But the display doesn't come on, and it doesn't operate. As you can see from the pictures, it is in very good condition. Come w/ toner already in it, plus an extra toner cartridge. Has a 10-document sorter and a power stapler built-in. I've been told it worked great prior to it not powering up. When I pulled the LVPS out, everything internally looked to be in great shape. I just don't have the time/resources to put into fixing this, and could use the money, so I'm just going to sell it. Price: $125 OBO, and I'm willing to deliver it to you, as long as the distance is reasonable. [ 05. July 2004, 01:24 AM: Message edited by: Nitrousbird ]

We have pictures!! http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/forsale/Laptop%20Front%20Open%20-%202.JPG http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/forsale/Laptop%20Front%20Closed.jpg http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/forsale/Laptop%20Screen%20-%202.JPG http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/forsale/Laptop%20Back.JPG http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/forsale/Laptop%20Battery%20Charger.JPG http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/forsale/Laptop%20Power%20Cord.JPG http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/forsale/Laptop%20Keyboard.JPG

We have pictures!! http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/forsale/Laptop%20Front%20Open%20-%202.JPG http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/forsale/Laptop%20Front%20Closed.jpg http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/forsale/Laptop%20Screen%20-%202.JPG http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/forsale/Laptop%20Back.JPG http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/forsale/Laptop%20Battery%20Charger.JPG http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/forsale/Laptop%20Power%20Cord.JPG http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/forsale/Laptop%20Keyboard.JPG

Most LT1's have 3-Channel ABS systems. I do agree that it is easy to break the front wires; I broke one when I pulled my motor out of the bottom to do the gaskets.

This is an old-schooler right here. I bought it a couple years ago for datalogging and PCM programming for my car, but have since gotten access to a far faster laptop, so I don't have any use for this one. Great for surfing general net surfing, typing papers, and lower level programs. Specs: - 486 100MHz Intel Processor - 24MB ram - 327 MB Hard Drive - Docking station has built-in speakers, network interface card, parallel and serial ports, stereo RCA jacks, mouse, keyboard, and monitor ports. - Include A/C adapter. ALSO includes an external battery charger that looks brand new. - Comes with Win 98 First Edition installed w/ all updates. Problems: - Like almost all laptops of this vintage (and many laptops significantly newer), the battery is shot. I mean it won't even hold a 2-second run-time charge. There are currently brand-new batteries for it on E-bay for $40-$50 bucks. - I'm not sure if the speakers work on the docking station or not. I'm positive it needs drivers for them, and I've never taken the time to see if I could get them working or not. - The key-lock key on the docking station is missing. It is unlocked right now, and honestly it's about useless anyway. Otherwise, the laptop is in great shape. The screen is perfect, every pixel works fine and is clear. Boots right up w/ no errors. Price: Edit: $120. Extra: Need a CD ROM drive?? I can seperately sell my Backpack Bantam 8X CD Rom drive w/ built-in speaker. I purchased this new about 3 years ago, and has only been used a few times; works perfectly. $30 FIRM. [ 05. July 2004, 01:22 AM: Message edited by: Nitrousbird ]

This is an old-schooler right here. I bought it a couple years ago for datalogging and PCM programming for my car, but have since gotten access to a far faster laptop, so I don't have any use for this one. Great for surfing general net surfing, typing papers, and lower level programs. Specs: - 486 100MHz Intel Processor - 24MB ram - 327 MB Hard Drive - Docking station has built-in speakers, network interface card, parallel and serial ports, stereo RCA jacks, mouse, keyboard, and monitor ports. - Include A/C adapter. ALSO includes an external battery charger that looks brand new. - Comes with Win 98 First Edition installed w/ all updates. Problems: - Like almost all laptops of this vintage (and many laptops significantly newer), the battery is shot. I mean it won't even hold a 2-second run-time charge. There are currently brand-new batteries for it on E-bay for $40-$50 bucks. - I'm not sure if the speakers work on the docking station or not. I'm positive it needs drivers for them, and I've never taken the time to see if I could get them working or not. - The key-lock key on the docking station is missing. It is unlocked right now, and honestly it's about useless anyway. Otherwise, the laptop is in great shape. The screen is perfect, every pixel works fine and is clear. Boots right up w/ no errors. Price: Edit: $120. Extra: Need a CD ROM drive?? I can seperately sell my Backpack Bantam 8X CD Rom drive w/ built-in speaker. I purchased this new about 3 years ago, and has only been used a few times; works perfectly. $30 FIRM. [ 05. July 2004, 01:22 AM: Message edited by: Nitrousbird ]

Could be something else. My Blazer has had a large amount of slop in the steering (a few inches of play) ever since I've owned it (over 3 years). Never got worse, and I got used to it, so I never bothered fixing it. When the lower ball joint broke last summer, I replaced the upper and lower ball joints, sway bar endlinks and bushings, and the inner and outer tie rods (plus lowered it 3" front/rear and had an alingment done). The steering felt nicer after that, but still the slop. My guess is something in the steering box. I don't have the money (nor the care to work on the Blazer) to fix it, so it will probably have play till the day I push it off a cliff and collect the insurance. tongue.gif Just thought I'd comment since tie rod ends aren't always the cure-all to steering slop (I figured that was the problem too, since mine were badly worn).

Any time the ABS engages, you get a low trac light. But they didn't offer traction control until 96.

94's weren't available with traction control. Check for loose wiring.

Exactly. Why the hell would you want to have a right hand drive car? Are you a mail man or something??? Freaking stupid. **Note: For all the retard nazi's, yes I realize some cars only are built in right hand drive, which makes sense why if imported you would drive one, but to purposely do this is sofa king gay**

This took an interesting turn. On Saturday, Trevor and I pulled the thermostat, boiled it, and it was working fine. Toss it all back together, and I was able to get more coolant in than ever before. SOOOOO, put it all back together, and the temp gauge slowly climbs like normal, but climbs up to around 240 degrees. WTF. The engine didn't seem hot, radiator wasn't overly hot, all of the hoses were warm. My truck a while ago had a cooling problem, and had gotten up to temps like that before, and back then, when it got that hot, you could VERY easily tell it was that hot under the hood. I have an OBD-I cable for my laptop, plus software for my Formula to do programming as well as data logging. Well, I also have software that will Datalog for my Blazer (got it free ). Log my drive to work, and the temp gauge is going up the same as what the PCM reads (PCM uses a different coolant sensor). After the PCM hits around 177, it leveled off and stayed there, but the gauge shot right up to 240 and stayed there. Looks like my aftermarket gauge is bad. Time for another one or to fix the stocker.