Nitrousbird

Stick out so much? The largest gap MIGHT be 1/8" if that - not enough to be concerned with. If you mean the thickness of the MC1 unit itself, it's not back, and doesn't stick out much futher and the fuel vent. It is also over far enough to not get hit by people getting on/off the back of the boat. You are also used to I/O's - inboards sit very differently in the water. Where an I/O has the swim platform well out of the water, and inboard's platform is flush (or if filled with balast below) the water. So the transom takes far more of a beating from the water than an I/O does. Example (not mine, as I don't have any in-water pics of my boat yet): http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZFStsgKR-Rs/TB4mP-KvXLI/AAAAAAAAAMY/j58CmrQl3dg/s1600/Bear+Lake+122.jpg Then with it moving: http://www.arizonawatersportcharters.com/images/feb._roosevelt_468.jpg As soon as you let off the throttle, especially when loaded down, that water hit below the rub rail pretty hard. Also take into account wakeboards hitting it, and that's enough reason to move it higher. After looking at enough factory installs, most do it above the rub rail, and that was good enough for me.

Now it is time to wire it in. You will need to cut the red (positive wire) shorter than the black (ground) wire on the feed from the MC1, as the ground block is further away. For the MC10 transmitter, you will need to extend the ground wire a little bit on that to have enough wire to make it to the ground block. Just use a 2’ piece of black wire and butt-connector it in to make the extension. For both ground wires, install the red ring terminals. Here are both ground wires attached to the ground block. http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/2226/dsc03044l.jpg As for the red wires, just find the red wire from the head unit (ACC) and tie them in together to the factory ACC wire, like I did with the yellow butt connector in this picture. http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/4407/dsc03046sh.jpg The next step is easy, very important, and the MC10 and MC20 manuals do not make this clear at all. The little headphone jack on the MC10 transmitter, in the instructions they call it the steering wheel jack – plug that into the back of the head unit. If you don’t, the MC1 unit will link up just fine, display will work, but the buttons won’t do anything. If the MC1 doesn’t connect automatically, follow these instructions: - Power on the system - Hold down play, enter, and escape on the MC1 at the same time - Select “reset MC1” then hit enter, followed by enter again - On the head unit, tune it to FM. The MC1 should say radio found - Hit the seek forward button once on the head unit (make sure it is set to DX or local and not manual) - The MC1 should now say to hit enter. Do that, hit escape a couple times, and you should be good to go. Now for some of the finished product: http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/5131/dsc03043rp.jpg http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/4431/dsc03042m.jpg http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/158/dsc03040yi.jpg http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/6862/dsc03039d.jpg http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/2521/dsc03036v.jpg

After doing some research I didn't find any good articles on doing this. Some basic stuff to get you by, but nothing step-by-step. This article will describe installing the Alpine MC10 setup, connected to an Alpine iDA-X100M head unit. The MC10 is identical to the current MC20 except it won’t do dual-zone volume controls (which the X100M head unit doesn’t have, so it made sense to save money and get the MC10). The hardest part of the job is choosing where you want to mount the MC1 control unit. I decided not to go below the rub rail for 3 reasons: damage from hitting it with a wakeboard, constant beatings from the water, and not protected by the cover when not in use. I chose to go as far over as I did to prevent hitting it when getting in/out of the boat. Let's get to it: http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/3710/dsc03019w.jpg Tools you will need: - Drill - 2" Hole Saw - Wire crimpers - Wire cutters - 7mm deep well socket and ratchet. 7mm wrench would also work - Phillips screw driver - Vacuum to sweep up the fiberglass dust from inside the boat Materials you will need: - Red butt connectors (at least 3) - Red ring terminals (at least 2) - Either a yellow butt connector or wire taps to tie into the ACC power line - Blue painters tape - Silicone sealant (I just used some stuff I had laying around – I’m sure there are a lot of products out there better than what I used) - Wire. I didn't do the "right" thing here, but in my opinion it works out great. I had 16awg in-wall speaker wire from when I wired my home theater. It is a twisted pair with a jacket. It works perfectly - protection with the outside jacket for the inside wires, bigger gauge wire than the rest of the Alpine wiring. - Paper towels / rags to clean up the fiberglass dust and silicone - Small piece of sand paper – I used 80 grit, but anything from 50 – 200 should work just fine. Here is where I chose to mount the remote. Make sure there is nothing you may drill into behind your intended hole (carpet, wiring harness, fuel vent tube, etc.). Mine was free and clear. http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/5484/dsc03017u.jpg Now let’s tape it off. We do this to help prevent chipping the gel coat when drilling, as well to help prevent accidentally scratching the gel coat while working in the area with the drill. http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/6804/dsc03021dc.jpg This is the scary part – drilling. Since I was by myself, I couldn’t take pictures of the drilling process. You need to set your drill to its lowest speed setting and set it to reverse (reverse is VERY important, as this is how you prevent damaging your gel coat). At first, apply a good medium pressure to the drill as the hole saw will want to walk around from your intended place to drill, and that is all bad. Once it starts cutting it, just apply light pressure. At that point, just drill and drill with light pressure, keeping the drill in reverse. It will take 1-2 minutes to get through. Here is the end result: http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/8172/dsc03023q.jpg http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/6963/dsc03024q.jpg Now you need to sand the edges. I believe this is called chamfering. You need to basically smooth the edge from the fiberglass to the gel coat. This is to prevent cracking of the gel coat in the future. http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/3900/dsc03025h.jpg I then did a quick test fit of the MC1 control unit – don’t push it in all the way as it is a pain to pull back out. http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/9092/dsc03026a.jpg Time to pull the tape, and clean up the area where the MC1 goes in: http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/941/dsc03028b.jpg Crimp your red butt connectors onto the wires of the MC1 unit prior to installing it, as it will make the process easier. http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/6153/dsc03029r.jpg Next, you will need to install the MC1. Rub a little silicone around the edge of the hole you drilled, then put a nice bead around the inside edge of the MC1 so it will make a nice seal. Remove the white sticker from the back of the MC1 so that this sticky surface is now available and start pushing the MC1 into the hole. Make sure it is aligned level, and just use firm and even pressure until it is fully seated. Once done, go inside the boat and install the bracket on the back of the unit. It isn’t really “needed” as the MC1 is a tight fit in that hole and almost glued in with the silicone, but this insures it won’t coming out. Don’t over tighten the bracket, as it will start digging into the fiberglass. http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/9857/dsc03032y.jpg

I'd go trade that in for a 4WD SUV and get your man card back.

From the Senior Members Section Either no one is showing up or you can't read.

I ended up installing it above the rub rail. My wife and I discussed it (it is her boat too), and figured the amount of water that hits below the rail + hitting it with wakeboards made it more logical to put it above. You can control it pretty well from the water, and can see the display as well, so I think we made the right choice. Here is a quick pic of it from when we got back from boating tonight (just installed it today) - I will post up a tutorial on how to do the install with pics in the next couple of days (I didn't take many finished pics). http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=168&pictureid=5380

Bethel is showing out of stock when I look. Closest I see is limited stock in 43207, but says Pick Up Today not available when I try to order it - same as Hebron, Lancaster, etc. I sure as hell am not driving there for nothing. I'll take a look at a Best Buy B&M if I pass by one today, but am doubting I will get lucky enough to get one. Not that I really need one, but for the price why not?

I drive a F150 almost every day (06 - company vehicle). No offroading, no towing, no hauling, just daily commuting - much of which is freeway driving. The number of problems this piece of shit has had at 52k miles now is unbelievable. My 4 year older Avalanche - which does tow frequently, does haul, has been offroad, has far more options that could break,and had 134k miles has been much more reliable and needed fewer repairs. Built "Ford Tough" my ass. FYI, the new Sierra Denali 2500 Duramax is freaking sweet.

As long as the financing was from "old" GM, then that logic does make sense.

Both show out of stock everywhere. BB Canada doesn't show out of stock on Slick Deals, but can't pick up or ship it. Future Shop (all Canada) won't ship it, but does show avaialble in stores. I may have the inlaws take a look to see if they have it in store, but that's unlikely.

I have so little in common with my tenant there is no way we could be friends.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Q9UFKU/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0052S99J8&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=12K0PQ9FW34620B4SWSE I got this in a package deal along with the Alpine Sirius interface for my boat, but I don't need this. Cheapest I have found it used on EBay and Amazon is $38 shipped - I will sell it for $30.

The two negatives to being below the rub rail: - Can get hit with a wakeboard, as that's where you put it on - Water getting behind the unit itself into the boat. When coming off throttle with the ballast full, water swamps the back of the boat up to about the run rail pretty hard. That's a lot of water pressure - To a much lesser extent, exposure when being stored. Below the rail is not covered by the boat cover. This may not be a big issue in the future (hope to build a second garage by 2013) and during off-season where I plant to store it indoors. I guess I'm looking to be conviced either way. It seems most people say below the rail, but most factory installs are above.

It is for a very good reason, and I'm thankful for it! Griggs Resevoir and O'Shaughnessy Reservoir do not allow any PWC or tubing. This: - Keeps the water calmer, as tubers ruin calm water more than anyone - People live on these Resevoirs, so it reduces the number of boaters by a bit - These waters are known for being good watersports waters - PWC's are a PITA to watersport folks - These are not the widest of areas to boat, so keep tubers and PWC's out reduces cross traffic a LOT. I love to get me some tube on, but I am more than happy to give that up if that means it keeps the Lake Lice off the water. Plus I don't like having some douche in a tube ruin good wakeboarding water.

That said, I'd be curious what the Malibu puts down at the prop. I'm sure the tranny and V-drive eat up some of that 375HP.

You better have a healthy water supply to run a boat motor that hard out of the water.

That's Reynoldsburg taxes, assesed @ $117,000. Would be slightly lower if I had the city come out and re-do the home value as it will never sell for 117k.

Yes, assholes that won't pay their bills and bought homes they couldn't afford are hurting the market for everyone. The price I am asking is in line with what the home next door that is similar sold for 4 months ago. This is why I am doing a lease option as well. KVM

$2740/year.

Even a short person could reach it either way. Inboards don't sit in the water the same as I/O boats so where you need a ladder to get on the swim platform of an I/O you don't need one with an inboard.

The unit arrived today. One other concern is that above the rub rail is not totally flat, so the unit may not sit as flat as I would like. It will also be angled up a little bit, making it harder to see the display.

Toyota is for people with no desire to ever raise their pulse. I remember when they used to sell cool cars...it seems so long ago.

Current tennant just put in her 30 day notice. Here is the listing: http://columbus.craigslist.org/reo/2552470952.html I'd prefer to sell but will lease if need be. Price: $109,900 Lease: 12-month @ $1100/month, of that money $250/month goes towards down payment (non refundable if house is not purchased).

Love the car...they are hard to find without a pile of rust. Good luck, wish I was in a position that made sense to buy it myself.

From what my inlaws have told me, there is no tax on lotto winnings in Canada. This means they got a lot more money than you thought they did.