twistedfocus1647545489

Ttt

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Tried this the other day after reading this thread. I agree, it's pretty tasty if you like coffee and actually does seem to give a little perk. Normally energy drinks seem to just give me short sugar buzz and that's it. If I had a favorite energy drink, this would be it.

Not in stock, but they can special order them. Probably a 2-3 week wait for them, though.

CO2 only. It's actually only probably had 500 shots fired or so since I bought it a few years ago. Most of that was just shooting at random stuff for fun.

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This thing is sweet. Buy it!

JEGS should have them soon. Right now their ETA on #5008 (kit w/ rails) is 11/5. I wouldn't take that as gospel, but it's a good indication that it shouldn't be long. That one does seem like a good choice for higher rpm applications. Plus it's cheap ($579.99).

BXR, yeah that's it. I really considered it but at the time even a good deal on it was $700+ with the hi-torque endcaps. As for experience with the SSI, I have none but have heard alot of people making plans to use them on road race cars... but still haven't seen any testing that shows it to do anything noticeably special over the standard design.

I remember the one you're talking about, but can't remember the name of the company. I talked to them at length one year at PRI when it was still in Indy. They had a few different endcaps also, one was tunable in that you could change how much plenum are was open inside each end of the plenum by moving the inside wall of the cap in and out. It was a really neat design, but I think it was probably just too expensive to catch on.

Spyder E99 Paintball Gun - Full Auto Electronic Includes Revolution Hopper with sensor (only runs when needed to keep up) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/PBSide.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/PBandPaint.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/HopperandCollar.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/BarrelandPaint.jpg It's completely stock, but these are already decked out with many popular features, including: * Multi-Mode Dip Switch Panel * Firing modes included semi, 3 burst and Full Auto * Graphic Engraving * Reactive Trigger Response, Up to 13 shots/sec * Adjustable Rate of Fire * Low Pressure Chamber * Expansion Chamber with Fore Grip * Quick Disconnect Pin * Tournament Velocity Adjuster * Anti-Double Feed * Vertical Feed * Deluxe Sight Rail with Beaver Tail * Aluminum 2-Finger Trigger with illuminated safety * Elite Drop Forward Also included: *12 Volt Revolution Hopper w/ X-Board Electronic Eye senses no paint and makes motor turn (necessary for high rate of fire, normally anything over 8bps, gun is currently set to 11bps) On/Off flip switch Low Battery Indicator Requires two 9 volt batteries (included, used some) *16oz tank *100 paintballs and belt clip with spare bottles (handy for reloads) *Factory packaging and instructions (at least I think they're in there) $100 Minor Issues: *This gun is rechargeable, but I moved and lost the power cord, so I replaced the rechargeable 9volt battery with a standard battery. I went through a couple hundred paintballs and it was still going strong, so battry life on a standard battery is good. I think I still have the recahrgeable battery if anyone wants it (I'll have to check) in case you want to buy a charger to fit. *The plastic collar that attaches the hopper to the gun is cracked. These are extrememly cheap to replace although it does still hold the hopper on if you're not trying to run with it.

1Ghz Pentium III Compaq Armada M700 Laptop and Dock http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/LapFront.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/LapRear.jpg $150 Includes full featured Docking Station Docking station has hookups for everything – Video, Sound, Printer port, USB, Ethernet etc. Screen looks good. Very little scuffing and no dead pixels. I think this is a 15.4". CDRW Drive and Floppy Drive included 20G Hard drive Cheapy laptop bag. It's seen better days, but it holds all the stuff except the dock and has lots of pockets (no pic). Power cord and 3 batteries included – All are in varying stages of death, so it could use a new battery. I actually had 2 of this same machine and had been using the other one with a new battery (they can be had on ebay for $35) and would typically get about 3 hours or so with it unplugged and running a PCMCIA wireless card browsing the net. Software: It has Windows XP Pro (not "Genuine" but still does critical updates), Office XP (Word, Excel, Powerpoint, etc), Photoshop 7, Nero, Norton Anti-Virus and plenty more to make it a great backup machine or for school or even EFI tuning. Does not come with the PCMCIA Wireless card pictured, but if you want it, I'll throw it in for $20. The drivers are already installed and I have the disk. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/Wireless.jpg The bad: 1-When I got both of these machines, they wouldn’t charge consistently. Upon dismantling one of them I found it had a weak solder joint on the power plug to the board. Apparently this is a known issue with these over years of misuse (yanking the cord at all angles, weakening the joint). Anyway, if you can solder and are capable of taking the machine apart and putting it back together you can fix it right up for free. I am not a pro and had no issues with the other one – it has been running great for about 6 months and still going strong. I actually wish I had fixed this one because the one I fixed turned out to have a blown speaker and these sound fine. 2-You'll want to get a new battery unless you plan to use it docked only. Just look up one on eBay and make sure you get the 46Ahr battery (I think some weaker ones are offered). Also of note, since this machine charges fine while on the dock, if you buy a new battery you could avoid fixing the plug if you're okay with only charging it on the dock. Overall this thing runs very well for such an "outdated" machine. I have been very happy with it (well I have been mostly using its twin, but same machine) and it has served me very well. I have actually used it several times to VPN into work and was surprised that it kept up just fine. The only reason I am replacing it is I am a squirrel and have had the itch to get a new one for a long time even though I don’t need anything more. So, I have a new one on the way, so I just don’t need this one anymore. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/DockedOpen.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/Docked1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/Docked2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/DockOnly.jpg

I second the paintball suggestion. I have seen cats permanently deterred with a couple well-placed paintballs without injuring them (well, not permanently). I'm sure it's more psychological than anything. In fact, I happen to have a Spyder E99 (Full auto, up to 13 balls per second) with an electric hopper that I have been thinking about selling if you'd be interested. http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:g5Cj8h5Vm2GkVM:http://www.directpaintball.com/pics/spydere99/e99_blue.jpg

I'd check to be sure it hasn't leaked all the refrigerant out, but if it's not that I'd suspect the AC Low Pressure switch. I know they can be a problem on the Mustang, and it's likely the same part on the Navigator. The surging is likely due to it causing the compressor to cycle on/off constantly when the AC is turned on.

Polaris has BJ's, which I think is a great place for the money and in a couple of weeks Mitchell's Steakhouse will be relocated to a new building (right next to BJ's) from the dying Crosswoods area (albeit not far away). Mitchell's would get my vote for not-italian any day if it's in the budget.

I just use Windows Media Player 11 here at work. You can set it to display just a small borderless video window while it's anchored to the taskbar.

True. My preference for the NP242 is based mostly on the fact that I don't get into many off-road excursions and it's primary purpose for me is battling snow and basic trails when camping. Having the ability to use Full-Time when Part-Time use would be marginal (snow drifted roads for instance... in and out of dry patches where you shouldn't be in Part-Time) If you're planning to do much heavy "wheeling", especially with big tires I'd stick with the NP231 also, although for predominately on-road or mild off-road use the NP242 is plenty strong.

Most desirable years would be 91+. This is when they went to the HO motor and got rid of the Renix abomination of an EFI system. More power and just a better overall system. After '93ish they went to an open cooling system, which is much less of a pain in the ass than the Closed variety. Almost always when someone is having cooling trouble with a Cherokee, it's a closed system with air trapped. The interior got upgraded a bit in '98 (I think, maybe '97). It's a Little less 70's looking inside. 2000 and 2001 are a bit less desirable than the prior years because they went to a new cylinder head design that can be crack-prone at the ends. They also seem to have issues with the #3 fuel injector overheating, but that's an easy fix. Also, these years got a Low-Pinion Dana 30 front axle as opposed to the High-Pinion on the prior years. It can make correcting for a lift a bit more costly. Rust prone areas are mostly in the body, like the bottoms of the doors and fenders, but depending on how it's been kept it could be anywhere. I'd take a good look at the floors too. Cracked manifold can happen, but are fairly inexpensive to replace. there are some places that sell a stainless "header" (more like a tubular manifold) for less than $200. I think cracked intakes are less common, but again an easy fix (but just OEM/Junkyard parts would do fine). Water pump, probably not as big a problem as most people think. They often get replaced while someone's throwing a bunch of parts at a cooling problem that isn't the pump. They do fail eventually, but they're cheap and fairly simple to replace. These engines are known to run 200k+ with basic maintenance, so odds are you'll go through a couple of pumps in that time. So, '98 or '99 would be my pick of the lot, particularly if it had the NP242 transfer case (Full-Time/Part-Time). These TC's are mostly found in Limited models, but can be had in the lower models too. They just aren't as prevalent. With these years you have the "newer" interior, High-Pinion D30, and the cylinder heads that weren't known to be so crack prone. I wouldn't discount a well-cared for 200-01 either, though. You can find them with less miles, naturally, because they are newer but 90k to 130k is probably not a big deal based on how long these things typically last.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/NoMustang-Squirrel.jpg

I live in Delaware and have Cingular (AT&T) and since I got my phone upgraded about a year ago from my old POS, I have had very few instances of weak signal nearly anywhere. About the only place I don't have signal is Ohio Power (AEP Recrationland now)... but that's in the middle of nowhere down past Zanesville. I wouldn't have guessed it, but it seems the phone itself could be the source of some reception issues. I've been pretty happy thus far.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/JeepBlackTrim.jpg This thing looks like a junker, and sometimes it makes me want something new, but I have never owned anything more useful and dependable. So dependable, that it has become my only means of conveyance. It has the Full-time/Part-time TC, so it's kind of like having a choice b/w 2WD, AWD, Locked 4WD and Low (2.71:1 at that). Not to mention that the 4.0L acts more like an under-powered diesel in that it makes peak torque just about right off idle. The Swiss Army Knife of beaters is the late model (boxy) Cherokee. They'll tow up to 5K as well, which few small SUVs can do these days.

+2 (1 on both counts) I have three 30+yr old cast iron skillets that I use alot. I even take them camping and use them right on the fire. Most of my cookware is Calphalon, but for ease of use I went with their non-stick. They're stupid easy to clean, even if you let stuff set up/harden in them by accident. Most of their newer high end stuff is anodized and allows the use of metal utensils. Also of note, alot of their pans work equally well in the oven. They do some lower end stuff that has rubber coated handles that I don't think are oven rated though. Edit: As mentioned in a prior post, if you can't afford the $400ish dollars for the full set, buy only the ones you need. I pieced my stuff together and came out ahead. In the long run, i spent as much but have things more talored to the way i cook. Places like Bed, Bath and Beyond often have certain units priced very low. Some weeks it's a couple of pans, sometimes it pots and such.

[Hijack] You've probably checked or replaced them, but cracked plug maybe? Sometimes, especially when mishandled, they can get cracked around the base of the porcelain by the hex portion and it's not too obvious (can even be below the hex where you can't actually see it). A plug cracked like this can be hard to diagnose because they'll work okay sometimes but deliver a weaker spark than normal, which would become more noticeable as load, cylinder pressure and RPM increases. I have been bit by this with brand new plugs out of the box (mishandled) and have seen it a couple of times from F-body guys that struggle to get their plugs in and accidentally put too much sideways pressure on them with a socket. If they're bad enough, you can sometimes flex them a bit in your hand and feel a bit of "give" at the base of the porcelain. Other than that... the usual culprits like grounds, wiring in general, etc. are likely to blame.[/Hijack]

Could be, but beware as they have a "B" spring also that's not nearly as stiff in the front (same rear rate). It's probably going to be hard to say without doing some in-depth comparison, because I don't think either one of them have a proper part number. Eric (Nther91) has C fronts on his car. Maybe you could compare them. He's also got some Koni reds on the front, but half-way through the build he went more drag-oriented and the car has no swaybars at all and not so agressive alignment, so it would be a poor comparison to what you're looking to do at this stage.

By the end I had a pretty mixed bag front to rear b/c of the IRS swap, but when it was live axle, I was running the factory bullit springs without isolators (a little more drop). The springs were 600in/lb front and 250in/lb rear. They're nearly identical to the FRPP "C" springs. I liked them and know alot of peole have good luck with the C's... and the best part is they're extremely cheap. That's actually what I'd recommend, They're hard to beat for the money. Alot of people do progressive rate srpings becasue they "ride better", which is true to some extent but it's not nearly as radical a difference as most people think. Usually when people run springs like the Eibachs, they pair them with stock or stock-ish shocks so being a little squishy under low compression masks the crappiness of the shocks with the crappiness of the spring. I'd stick to a specific rate. Also, it's hard to tune a shock to a progressive spring, becasue they change rates on you in a non-linear fashion (unlike the shock) as they compress - so you have to compromise or over damp the soft travel of the spring to get it to damp the heavier part correctly. That's the beauty of the Mustang, expecially the fox... there's so much on the market for them that if you shop smart you can be right up there with everyone and spend 1/4 the $$$.