twistedfocus1647545489

True Story. Some kits are jetted a good bit differently for the same power levels. It's good to be sure. The 93 stock motor has hyperutectic pistons, so they don't always tend to hold up to as much heat without separating the top ring lands (destroying the piston). I would agree that 75 and work up is always a good idea for these engines and run exactly the fuel/plug gap/ heat range as called for in your kit. You always hear about people running way more, so it's tempting to jump right into 125-150+, but a 75 horsepower (and likely 100 or so foot pounds of torque) increase will be significant. Just like Jetting, different brand kits call for different stuff for each power level, so just make sure you are equipped accordingly for the shot size. 10Sec93 made some ungodly amount of runs on a stock 93 bottom end with anywhere from 100 to 200hp (maybe it was a 225)... It lasted alot longer than I thought it would... but it didn't last forever. Eventually he toasted some pistons, but that's proof that as long as you stick to the kit's guidelines and check your plugs often to keep an eye on things you'll be safe (safe-er).

My seed said aproximately 3 days to germinate and visible sprouts within 7. I would think after a week or so you might be alright if it has been kept moist and has sprouted. I'm guessing it's not good to have a layer of snow on it the second day... and now they're calling for frost in the morning. Looks like there's a good chance I'll be re-seeding. I'm moving somewhere with no weather.

I seeded my lawn on Sunday, so clearly I have brought this plague upon us...

Nice craft brew selection. I'd be a wino in no time if they opened one near here.

I use the Klipsch Promedia 4.1 Speaker system on my pc. At 200+ watts RMS, it blows away most HTIB setups fo-sho. Is it necessary? No. Cool? To me it is. For most people I think the HTIB is, at the very least an assload better than TV speakers. As long as you can produce some crash-bang-tinkle from multiple directions you're still a large jump ahead in immersing youself in the media.

Oh yeah, owned by reading comprehension. I graduated from Teays Valley... .

I hear on the news this morning that they are now planning to start the electronic deposit ones a few days earlier. Monday or Tuesday I think.

My ride is probably capable of high 20's in the quarter and gets about 12/17mpg... Is there a consolation prize?

Maybe I missed it, and maybe it doesn't matter really... I'm in no way involved but I found myself wondering if he didn't clean them, he likely wouldn't know they were in this apparently uncleanable state. It seems feasible that he really thought they were cleanable and was not trying to mislead anyone. I have done some deals myself where I assumed something to be so and later heard "you promised me ____" when I made no promises... I just didn't know. The only reason I'm piling my opinion on with all the others is that I think it's important to know what kind of traders people are, just as much as the OP, but I also think that miscommunications happen and it doesn't necessarily indicate that a person is a shady dealer. All that being said, if he agreed to send you money and has not then hopefully you two can connect on that part. It sounds like he's hard to get ahold of for everyone and not just the OP. Just trying to take a rational look from the outside here.

It has always been my feeling that Bose is more about marketing than the actual product. I don't blame them I guess, as it seems like a good way to make cash hand-over-fist. That's not to say that they dont produce an okay sounding product that's pleasing to look at, they do. It's just that for my money I have always been more happy with even the lower end of the "Real" home theater stuff you find at places like Audio Encounters and such and not in Circuit City. For the $1300-$1500 or so you can spend on a mid-grade Bose I went with Paradigm speakers and a mid-grade Onkyo receiver and feel like its much more musical and precise with equal or more total output than the Bose systems I auditioned. Cliffs: Someone once said "Bose - Better sound through marketing"... and I think they were spot on.

http://lolcat.com/pics/seewhatyoudidthereidid.jpg

This sounds kinda' gay, but works quite well. no watermarks and I don't think it expires. http://www.cutepdf.com/

There was some quality discussion on the topic here: http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44141

A while back I found a couple of places online (Not H&R themselves) listing the Sports at 490-575 Front/205-285 Rear. I would say they are more similar to Ford Racing B-Springs. THe H&R Super Sports would be more in line with the Cs. Searching again I found this: http://www.need-4-speed.com/h&r.htm I am pretty sure I have seen those same numbers published elsewhere, although most places I find now seem to only advertise the rates of the Super Sports and Race springs.

EDIT: I just realized it says no leaks and to PM or email if interested. I can't read. PMed

I think most gas distributors and welding supply places can do hydrostatic testing. I would assume it's the same for a nitrous bottle as for anything else. You might ask these guys. Worst case maybe they can direct you somewhere else close-by Central Ohio Welding Company 253 East Spring Street Columbus, OH 43215 614-224-5207 Fax: 614-224-1908

This is my little corner of the world. Cu-Bizzle fo Shizzle! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/Cubicle.jpg

If you were going to see some autocross, I would have maybe leaned toward the C-springs, but then you're probably getting too far from the rate you shocks are meant to dampen, so you're shopping for shocks (or maybe having yours revalved, either way =$$)... so especially for street use - I'd say you're right on with the B's.

Not that you we're asking, but my take on the springs is as follows: I'm kind of a Ford Racing "fan-boy", but if they fit your application well, which they seem to do in this case, they're always an excellent value. For $100 less your getting nearly the same rates as the H&R with a more modest lowering, which is obviously important because of the shocks. The 1.5 or thereabouts lowering of the H&Rs isn't alot, but its probably getting near the danger zone, especially in the rear. That may cost you a bit more than you'd want in overall travel too (although the lower height definately looks better). Are you hitting autocrosses/track-days with this or just street?

That's been pretty much my impression of the Pro-5.0 as well, but I know people that swear they're better than sliced bread. In my opinion sliced bread is way better . I'm sure it's all about personal prefference and driving style... kinda like shock settings, etc.

Edit: I originally read this as only the rear because I'm illiterate. Rear: Basically if you jack up the back end (obviously) and support the rear subframe with jack stands so that the rear axle can droop, you're in business. From there it's pretty straight forward. If you have stock springs in there, you'll likely have to unfasten the shocks (topside, under the shock tower covers) so that you can droop it far enough to pull the springs (and maybe pull the DS, but I doubt it). Usually you can droop it enough this way that you can just use a prybar or something to pop them out. They should be uncompressed enough that you won;t have to fear catching one in the eye. Worst case, if you can't just pop them out you can use a spring compressor or remove the control arm bolts to allow more droop, but that's likely not necessary. Re-assmbly is the reverse of dissasembly. Only thing to look out for is to make sure you orient the "pigtail" on the rear springs the right way (note how the stockers are when you pull them). I think they should point forward, but I don't recall for sure. Front: Similar to the rear in that you just need to get it in the air and support by the front subframe. Then unfasten the strut so that you can droop the control arm enough to pry the spring out. This is where you should be careful, but I have done it many times with no spring compressor. Normally I have a jack under the control arm as a safety. Normally you still end up moving the jack out of the way to get enough droop to pop the spring loose. If it seems like it's under alot of tension, it's probably best to use spring compressors (although I have never needed to). Again make sure the pigtail is oriented correctly, although it's fairly obvious because of how it fits into the spring pocket in the control arm.

Everyone seems to be all about the Pro-5.0, but I never liked it. It just doesn't feel natural to me. The 2-3 shift is supposed to be "improved", but to me it just didn't feel like it was in the right spot. Maybe I'm just too particular or maybe more time getting used to it would have made it better... but for my money I'll always go B&M Ripper. It just always felt the most positive and intuitive to me. I'd say your best bet is try some out. There are so many cars out there with all of the above, so you can probably get some people to at least let you drive around a parking lot or something. It's hard to get a fell for it without driving around a while.

They're fairly cheap to upgrade and it's a good idea for a car making decent power, particularly if you don't have a DS loop. I have had good luck with "Brute Strength" cheapos, but most would probably agree Spicer makes the best. Just make sure you get the non-greasables.

Damnit.. forgot about the bicuits. Was it garlic and cheese orsomething? I can't remmeber, but now I'm even sadder.

Oh man - Now all I can think about is the melt-in-your-mouth Chicken Basket of goodness I used to get there often. I was saddened by their closing too.