Trouble Maker

I'll buy you a beer or two of your choice if you blow that bitch up with a big ol fire cracker when it gets to your house instead of forwarding it onto him.

They figured you would be homeless soon and wanted to make sure you were both warm and dry while living rough.

More than you can afford, pal.

Either of those would look great... sorry, I know that doesn't help the color decision but I really like the styling on those.

If it were a white billionaire American there would be a bunch of apologizes on here.

That's about 22k now. MSRP for that car was $17,545 which would be about 24k. MSRP for a 15' Si is $23k. I think for there to be an 'argument' you have to have at least 1 possibly valid point. Mostly, I just find the worth of money over time and comparisons like this interesting. It doesn't matter what it's about.

The last time a Civic was $12k was a base car in 1993, IIRC Brian had a late 90s or early 00s car. It would have been closer in price to the low end of that price range you posted. The 1993 car did 0-60 in something in the high 9 second range. $12k from 1993 is like $20k now and that car does 0-60 in 7.8 seconds (2.0L non turbo since it's the right price). Probably, if you were able to quantify everything about that car, it's 2-3x the car the old one was. That's true across the board, for basically every car. Anyone who would pick a 1993 civic for $20k now over the new one is a grade AA potato.

I'm not super familiar with that car, so I'm not sure of the difference between an IROC-Z and a Z/28... Hagerty has them as 2 different cars, that have 3 different engine options each. But here is one of them, as an example. https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1986-Chevrolet-Camaro-Z!28 I like them because it gives historical graphs and different levels of prep from a beater to driver to show winner. They don't have every car, but mostly just classic or sought after cars. Any time I search KBB, NADA, etc. for a 'non-normal' car; old, rare, sought after or high following cars, they are almost always wrong (low) compared to what the market is actually doing. I don't have enough time yet with Hagerty to know how accurate they are, I just like that they have graphs so you might know if it's a good or bad time to sell or buy a particular car.

Or a good, the best available, stopgap until we invent something better?

Yes, after the info in this thread and digging some more, that's what I'm going to do. Since I can do a main breaker disconnect outside and do a main breaker panel inside, all is well. Thanks for confirming! Ok, I assumed I needed a water proof connector. If not, I'm fine with using a regular connector. I don't know enough to know 'what kind', honestly. Again, I thought I would need something where it goes into the house. If what you said is OK, I'm fine with that. It's on a side of the house we don't really go to, is not very visible due to being in the 'forest' you see in that picture, that's why I'm putting it there. I think it will look and work fine. Any special caulking I'm supposed to use? Surprisingly enough, they do I have it. I have no affinity to Lowes, it's just the closest big box store to me. Am I 'allowed' to go to Loeb, being a regular old home owner? I think I would prefer there, even if it cost some more. It seems like a place like that will have more of what I'm looking for and be able to answer any questions I have. I actually think I would prefer that, but can I run SER in conduit? I thought I either needed to do SER, or THHN/XHHW in going in conduit?

I don't see the Midwest as that. I think it's more, in the Midwest, if someone refers to themselves in the 3rd person they are seen as a freaking weirdo... which they are.

Apparently, maybe, I don't know how to use the google's that well yet and posted a picture only I can see. Put the original image up on CRs albums so everyone should be able to see it now.

Thanks for all of the good info SloSV, it confirms a lot of what I was wondering about the wiring. The socket and main breaker (first disconnect) are one part and prewired internally. I assume that is where you meant I need to have only 3 wires. After the first disconnect, outside, it needs to be 4 wires (hot, hot, ground and neutral) to the panel right? The inside looks like this. https://www.downloads.siemens.com/download-center/Download.aspx?pos=download&fct=getasset&id1=BTLV_22771 There is a bus bar in the meter/main breaker with one big lug on the socket side for neutral in, 2 big ones on the breaker side for neutral/ground out, and 2 little ones for earth rod ground. Any good sources for small parts? Having a little bit of a hard time finding things like a 2 inch water proof connector or a sill plate for my service entrance cable.

I already ordered the panel, outdoor (nema 3r) L14-30 connector and extension cord. Planning to get this generator http://m.harborfreight.com/8750-peak7000-running-watts-13-hp-420cc-generator-epa-iii-68530.html I don't see the necessity of an automatic system personally, versus the cost. If our power goes out for long enough to warrant the generator I will pull it out of the garage, switch everything over and start it up. Not worth the extra cost for the little bit of time needed every few years when we will need this. Out of curiosity, any info on the automatic transfer? I can always change the generator over to NG later, and change over to all automatic stuff.

I thought one could only have an HSA if they had a high deductible plan; something like $5k deductible for an individual?

I had a dream last night. I was driving down the road and saw a wood palette store. The building said something about crafts and Pinterest on the side of it.

To make a hybrid through the road system that would meet performance expectations for an STi would be too expensive for the STis price point. That's not going to happen. But it was very unclear from that article the type of hybrid system they are talking about.

Yeah, I was able to dig some more and it seems like this is OK. I didn't think it would actually be an issue, but some NEC rules don't always follow logic. I ordered the panel in my link above and this meter socket/main combo. https://www.downloads.siemens.com/download-center/Download.aspx?pos=download&fct=getasset&id1=BTLV_22771 http://www.amazon.com/Siemens-Energy-6513048-Meter-Socket/dp/B00DHL9HCG

That's how someone ends up being patient 0.

http://www.krema.com/Aboutus.asp You're welcome.

Kind of like how you trash every person who buys a set of wheels that aren't $7,000 and one of one in the states?

I'm rewiring almost my entire house, moving the panel, upgrading service and having the line buried. I want to modernize as much as possible. Right now we have a 14 (really 12) breaker Push Matic that's in a kitchen cabinet. Yup, you read that right, have to love old houses! We are planning to gut and redo our kitchen soon, so that panel has to go. Maybe the simplest question is, can I have a breaker for service disconnect installed outside and still do a main breaker panel inside? http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=563&pictureid=8390 The big issue is that it seems like the 3' clearance to an open window can't be done and have the service entrance go into the side of the house (black+yellow). That would make the line around 6' inside. So I think I need to do just the black line. If so, the line inside will be longer than 6' inside, requiring a breaker outside. The imaginary panel is as far to the left as possible in that image. The back portion of my house is on a crawl. But I want to install a panel with a generator interlock to have a manual transfer safely, which interlocks out the main breaker on the panel. So to do that I need my panel to be main breaker. Panel I would like to use http://www.lowes.com/pd_383899-48019-TTV2003C_0__?productId=4729171 I actually like the idea of a service disconnect breaker outside. Since one can turn it off and completely disconnect everything inside, allowing very safely work in the panel in the future. Also, what does 3' of clearance mean, exactly, to the open window or the window if I didn't have storms, or the outside edge of the trim? Do I need 3' of clearance to all of the other stuff on the side of my house or just the window? Another alternative is to do black+pink, that would get me 3' the the open window. But that way seems strange. It would have to go in front of the block glass window and in through the block. Is there a requirement for how far above ground level the line has to be?

Fuck that noise. It's not a getting used to it thing. It's not as capable and way, way more cumbersome to use. It's a capability and efficiency issue. Basic stuff it's fine. If you are doing real work or significant amounts with it, I'd pay good money for a windows machine with MS Office on it. Not that you have to, just saying what it would be worth for me. It's not just chrome, it's Open Office too, and I'm guessing anything that try's to replace Office. Open Office is better than chrome for an MS Office replacement too, and it's still pretty far behind MS office.... maybe a newer version of Open Office could work if it's gotten better and I wanted to learn it for the next 5 years. But really, I'm guessing a vast majority of people rarely if ever touch those programs with their home PC.

No, I meant getting OEM rotors for the setup you are getting.... but thinking about that a bit more I don't know if that will work with your bolt pattern, bolt size, rotor hat depth requirements. If you can use 'stock' rotors for those cars, this should work.

We have a Chromebook (Toshiba Chromebook 2) for an internet browsing machine and couldn't be happier with it. It replaced our laptop. I have an 'old' home theater PC I was going to put on an 'old' LCD monitor for more rigorous task, but I don't think we need it at all. If she does a lot of word processing, maybe not the best option as the document editing suite is not as polished as MS stuff. I'd probably end up breaking the computer with a large sledge hammer if I had to do the stuff I do at work in excel or power point on anything other than MS. I've used Chromebook and Open Office... they are garbage for any real work. Sorry, I can't speak to the flippy thing specifically.