Trouble Maker

Yeah, the bull shit about millennials not being able to afford to move out is funny. Anyone I know in that age range that should have moved out by now but haven't says they can't afford it and spend their money very, very poorly. And you'll still never move out of their basement.

I mean, there's no way a movie (that's trying to make money) based loosely on 'historical' events could be biased, change the truth or take creative liberties to fill in the story.

I will second what a few other said; OLED and full color gamut are what I would look for before I worried about 4k. Though I'm not sure you will get those in a non 4k tv... I don't know the market well since I haven't been shopping. I can tell you my next TV down the road will have these 2 things, after having seen a TV with them. I'm sure I couldn't afford one right now though.

At our previous apartment I put a smaller center channel on a shelf that was level with the top of the TV. The TV was mounted on the wall with a full motion TV mount. I also mounted the cable modem, wifi router and a power strip to power it all onto the bottom of that same shelf. It probably only stuck out from the wall about 8~10 inches. That was fine considering the (smaller) tower speakers and floating shelves came out from the wall at least that much. The full motion mount was nice because you could move the TV out and work on stuff without removing it from the mount. If you mounted a smaller center channel directly on the wall, it would probably be about as deep as your TV+mount unless you got a super slim TV and mount.

I am not an electrician, I just play one while I'm in my own house. That is a main lug panel. You must have a service disconnect somewhere; most panels have the service disconnect built in i.e. main breaker. The service disconnect is probably built into the meter box. If the service line runs more than a certain distance in the building, there must be a service disconnect outside; the usually 'rule' is 5 feet. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/6147ZwXpx7L._SL1500_.jpg There is probably a place the power comes to your set of condos and there is a bigger version of that with 4 meters and 4 disconnects.

You need a front wheel drive rear diff?

I thought this was going to be about your reputation on this forum.

So, basically the hierarchy of shady dealings is 1)Terrorism 2)Oil Baron 3)Used Car Lot Owner Makes perfect sense.

http://images.kw.com/agent_portraits/3/6/5/365903/signature%20photo%202.jpg

Car sold to heartless tonight. Thanks for picking it up!

Bump, still available. I think I've replied to everyone who's contacted me, sorry if I missed you, I've gotten a lot of PMs with questions, can be hard to keep track of them all. I'd rather not bug everyone back again via PM, in case someones no longer interested. If anyone is still interested, please PM me again.

I like the direction Clay is going. It's definitely a worth taking a look over the wiring first, it can be a cheap and easy fix and you aren't just throwing parts at it. I had almost the exact same symptoms that worsened over time in an early 2000s Pontiac Sunfire. Very interment, sometimes wouldn't start a few times then suddenly started 100% OK. It ended up being the signal wire from the relay to the starter, at the starter. Where the wire was crimped into the connector (can't remember now if it was a spade or eyelet), it was fraying. So instead of there being something like 10 strands of wire connecting it, there was only a few, the finally it completely disconnected. In the diagram with the starter below, that would have been at pin 50. I had tired a new relay, and probably next would have been a starter since I knew that the relay seemed to be getting it's signal to turn on just fine. Ended up being able to fix it with a part I had sitting around; new connector that was just an eyelet or spade. When it happens, you can try to trouble shoot by checking the voltage going 'into' the relay, and the voltage at the starter solenoid, which is also the voltage coming 'out' of the relay. Sorry if I'm going over something you already know, but I don't want to tell you to check these things and you have no idea.... plus this might help others in the future. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachments/electrical-wiring/661281d1332470190-relay-diagrams-untitled.jpg It's probably a 'standard' relay, I can't remember what most people call them, but the pins are marked and positioned like in the above diagram. It took me a little bit to find the starter relay in that Sunfire, I assumed it would be in the fuse/relay box, but it was off by itself on a stay somewhere near the radiator. It very well might not have the 87a (normally open) pin on the relay and/or socket. That pin (87a) is connected to pin 30 when the relay is not energized. When you send some voltage (12V DC in this case) to pin 86, it 'energizes' the relay, which is just an electromagnetic coil/solenoid. This pushes the switch and pin 87 is now connected. So, to put it in simple terms. Your iginition switch sends 12V to pin 86. This connects pin 87 to 30 to send 12VDC to the starter solenoid to tell it to turn on http://www.3dzubehor.com/webpics/Manualrelay2.jpg So, you can see if pin 86 is getting 12V when you turn IG to 'start'. If it's not, look at something up stream of the relay i.e. iginition switch, or there could be a ton of reasons the ECU is not telling the car to turn on even though you are (the ECU can decide it's not OK to fire the engine). Or, if that's OK you can see if you are getting 12V on pin 87, or at the starter solenoid. If you are, then it's an issue down stream i.e. starter or some of the main power wire or grounding of the starter.

CA18DET, no shit? Just razzing ya. Welcome.

Just outside of Ostrander.

PM sent.

I'm going to reiterate, I have zero interest in or time to be able to part this out myself. Yes, I know that I would get more money that way. Right now my spare time nets me more in other areas. Car is still available. I was out there this weekend and took a picture of the oil pan to check.... but I didn't get enough of the top of the oil pan in the picture. I should be out there again tomorrow night to check it now that I know what I'm looking for. Going to look at a new toy this week, someone buy this thing so I can do that!

Really thinking about it.

Is that the matte black? Man, that's almost exactly what I want... but slightly different style in some color. Really tempting given the price, but we would have to store it for a few years. FYI, for anyone interested. It looks like the wall placement is 14". http://www.malmfireplaces.com/lancer.html

I can imagine finding one anywhere in even just ok running order is going to be hard, given their original numbers and current age.

No stoned goat or Viper, no care.

A little further than that, but, at least for Adults in the car, completely doable for a 3 day weekend. With kids, I'm sure it depends on the kid and their age. We've really liked St. Louis when we've been there. Great food and places to stay. You can go to see the Arch. They have a place called the City Museum that's supposed to be an absolute blast for kids and families. Last time we went, we stayed in the Delmar Loop area at Moon Rise hotel, really fun area and cool hotel. Forest Park, a 1400 acre park with a zoo, a few museums and a science center. You can also find a place in walking distance to the rail system, day passes are pretty cheap. We still need to do weekend trips to Indianapolis & Pittsburgh. We've been there for a weekend, but just with other priorities; weddings and stuff like that. Indianapolis is high on our list, seemed like a really cool downtown area when we went there for a wedding.

Convertible Fox Body, 2 birds with one stone.

I feel like I've seen people on here legitimately talk about those plastic fake mono-bloc brake covers that seem to be all the rage on modern mopar muscle cars.

Because $148k/year EDIT: Damn, Ben beat me to it.

Thanks for the text Mike, I sent him a PM back.