Trouble Maker

I would think something like an M5 or RS7 w/chip would be quite a bit cheaper, just as fast, and probably (from everything I've read) nicer inside. Don't get me wrong, I'm a huge fan of vehicle electrification and am borderline evangelical about what I think Elon's going to do for human advancement. But, apples to apples I think it's hard to justify these cars right now. Their environmental benefit has to be worth something siginificatnt to you in order for one of these cars to be worth it.

No, it's the one he said it was. http://www.baratza.com/grinder/preciso/ https://www.seattlecoffeegear.com/baratza-virtuoso-preciso-burr-grinder We got the Baratza Encore when one of those POS blade grinders we had killed itself. They make a really quality product and they are meant to be rebuildable; in the rare event that any part breaks/wears out you can fix it instead of replacing it. I just looked up our model out of curiosity and it seems like you can buy every single part individually. Though I don't expect we'll ever have to replace or fix any part on this thing though.

This, San Diego, but fuck the cost of living there. Maybe PNW from everything I've heard, but I've not spent enough, really any, time up there to say for sure.

Yeah, and the sportcross (wagon) probably does nothing for seat room and just makes it rare/more expensive.

Any other stipulations about age, brands, mileage, country of 'origin', drive wheels? My mind immediately went to something like a BMW 5 series. Just from a very quick Autotrader search it seems like it's possible. Or, anything along these lines; German, or maybe some Japanese or Domestic 'big' body cars. Audi A6, BMW 5 series, whatever Lexus makes (maybe not sporty enough), Pontiac G8 (maybe not at this price). Of course you are getting the V6 version of them, it seems like mid 2000s unless you are OK with an older higher spec car. I'm sure I'm missing something and I'm not suggesting any of these on reasons other than what popped into my head.

Is that something like this, found in Steve's link. http://www.skenedesign.com/FPBracket/index.shtml I'm liking this one. Like Getto said, some drilling but not on a place anyone can see so I'm OK with that. It's also not the horribly ugly grey cheap piece of plastic that most OEMs use.

Yeah, I'm torn, it's a DD so just put it on, or it's a DD normal car so we won't be bothered anyway. But, I'm not drilling the front bumper and putting one of those ugly ass grey plastic things on even if it's just a DD. Has anyone done the tow hook and cut the plate down to just the numbers so it's not as much of an eyesore; ever gotten any flack for modifying a license plate?

If you put them on your car, but don't drill the bumper, what do you do? Got the wife a new (to us) daily and it doesn't have a place for a plate, and I'd rather not drill the front bumper. Though, I'm worried that if I do the tow hook mount it will screw with the front parking sensors... maybe we will just figure out how to permanently turn that off since she hates that feature. For reference, it's a 2013 Chevy Volt, though I am curious in general what you all do. Sensors look like this. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sV0ho0KafDs/Uje_v_bxAVI/AAAAAAAAAMY/LYXHSlMFZic/s1600/2013-Chevrolet-Volt-Front.jpg It's a little difficult to see, but tow hook location is on the right about half way between the two parking sensors on the left below the headlight and above the sensors. http://o.aolcdn.com/dims-shared/dims3/GLOB/legacy_thumbnail/800x450/format/jpg/quality/85/http://www.blogcdn.com/green.autoblog.com/media/2012/04/2011-chevrolet-volt-front-628.jpg Unfortunately I'm pretty sure the grey grill towards the bottom is the main air inlet for the radiators, so that's a no go zone.

So, all of these property purchases they generically talk about in these bond levy's are going to purchase property that should in no logical world be included in Columbus to let a business use tax free for the next 25 years? Makes sense. :dumb:

So, another question about property taxes; is it as god awful confusing everywhere as it is in Columbus? So, my house is worth X, but I the taxable value is Y (mine is about 1/3 of X), so the millage is on that amount (maybe). But then you have reductions, one for non-business, owner-occupied and one that's just called reduction. And now, I have no easy connection between what my house is worth, what a tax proposal is and what it will cost me. I had a year of math in College, I shouldn't need a damn calculator on the auditors website to figure out how a levy is going to affect me. To top it all of, my property is split up into two lots, so I have two sets of numbers that don't make any sense to look at. Grumpy Old Man, OUT.

Sorry, I was trying to be vague to get the conversation started. That tells me almost nothing... not your fault, the City et. al. seem like they are almost trying to not get out info about this. All of the items say something like “I need money to do this job that this department does”. I work in automotive R&D, if I want to my boss & company and said “I need to by this car because we work on cars”, they should just go ahead and fire me. I’m sure they have a plan for the money, tell us what it is. You know what else makes people dig in their heels and say no to any tax increase? Proposing an about 20% property tax increase with no PR or explanation. The kicker to that is, we increased income tax from 2% to 2.5% back in 09 or 10. They said they needed it for the same reasons and due to the crash. Now wages are going up and unemployment has gone down, so they should be getting more money than ever from income taxes. AND the auditor re-evaluates house prices every 3 years, which will happen again next year; I’m sure basically everyone’s value has gone up which will make this increase even more. My current tax rate is about 60% higher than that, , based on my houses market value at the last valuation; in 2014. The increase for just the CSD issue #57 is about spot on. And that’s just the School one, which is about half (in value) of what is proposed. Another part I’m really confused on, Issues #1-4 are bonds, and two parts of issue #57 are levy’s and 1 part is a bond. Can anyone explain city/state issued bonds to me. Do these actually increase your taxes or not or just maybe?

Anyone have any idea what in the world is going on? Any place for good info on any of them, why and what exactly they will go to?

That guy got 13th place.

I'd be interested to see what differs from what happens in the normal factory setting. I've seen enough of normal plants to know what happens, but I had no idea that the did COPO cars in a completely different plant. For example, do they just get the white body from a normal factory and just use it, or modify it, or do they put the white body together? Maybe these are just questions that I don't know because I don't know anything about what makes a COPO car a COPO car.

Reminded me of this auction on BAT right now. http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1991-porsche-koenig/

What makes you think it's not now? It's just that Solar City hasn't expanded their business into Ohio, plenty of other companies doing it. It's on our horizon of house projects. If you can do it yourself, parts are <$10k, which would be <$7k after tax rebates. My calc on payback is something like 7-15 years depending on how you sway the calcs. Big difference is if you do it or have someone else do it. For any good panel you'll see the life quoted at 25 years. This is when the panels are at 80% capacity, I think it's pretty easy to argue that there is some life left there. Solar will only get cheaper over time too.

Probably the best part of that is it has a nice sized tank too. Googles says 17.2 gallons, so you could get over 600 miles out of a tank. I went from work to home to south of Nashville on one tank and back including a stop in Ostrander before home on the second tank in a FWD TLX (9AT V6). Pretty awesome no not have to stop for fuel. I've average 35mpg in the Fit I have over this first 19 months and 27kmi. But the tank is tiny, I only get about 300 miles out of it if I'm reasonable about when I fill up. :fa: We've got a new 4 door Accord EXL V6 (6AT) right now too. The biggest surprise for me about this car is how nice and quite it rides, especially at highway speeds. Though I'm sure the NV packages aren't the same across the lineup. Accord combined MPG, the coupe V6 6MT must have some short gearing. ----------Sedan---Coupe 6MT I4-----26------26 CVT I4---29-30-----29 6AT V6-----25------24 6MT V6-------------21

Does your Dad have a Mountain Dew tattoo?

What's the tow rating on a Vepr?

Add some good recovery equipment on that list. I think the ease of setup of this stuff would be a huge plus. I think camp would be setup much quicker when you got to the next way-point than with all stand alone stuff in a trailer. Plus the packaging is really nice. Does anyone make just a box trailer to throw stuff in that is designed for off-road use? Eh, whatever floats your boat and you think works. There seems to be a pretty big market for this type of thing.

They have pricing up for some of the smaller ones. Definitely more in the realm of attainable for many more people. UEV310, the smallest one, has an 'introductory' base price of $17.8k, dry weight of just a hair over 1klbs. The weight opens up a lot too. You could put quite a bit in it and tow it with a 2 door Rubicon, which IIRC has a 2klb tow limit. http://conqueror4x4usa.com/index.php/products-north-american-off-road-camper-trailers/uev-310/

Glad that was the first post. :megusta: Can you speak into what those actually do or don't do? My understanding is that they are basically for comfort; don't actually add any safety.

We are getting a new Civic (2 door EX 1.5Turbo) soon, if it's everything it's cracked up to be, I imagine use that for any 'longer' trips. This will be primarily a commuter for my wife and our 'city car'. Her drive to work is only 11 miles one way. So I expect a majority of our use in it will be electric. We have a house with a garage and a reasonable amount of power running to it.... currently 3-15 amp circuits, might be able to look at the lines and 'turn' one of them into a 20 amp. We will be building a new garage in a few years and run a sub-panel out there. We would do a Level 2 charger then. I would prefer cloth, ignoring cost. Not doing it to try to save money, neither of us like how hot leather get's in the summer. We don't have animals or kids, so the durability/ease of cleaning leather isn't as big of a deal.

Where's that? Didn't see any in the greater Columbus area on Autotrader. Started to dig on individual Chevy dealerships in the area sites and got frustrated and quit after a few. :lolguy:

Looking an Volt's for the wife. What do you think of them, in general? It looks like in 13-15 there was a 'Comfort' package that had heated cloth seats. I've been able to find a whole 1 in a 100 mile radius. And I could only find that by looking through pictures, a real PITA. Did no one order this package and most were base or just went for the leather seats? Might just go with a loaded one since they are easy to find and just a bit more in price, even though we would prefer cloth seats. Any thoughts on GMs CPO program? The certified ones don't seem to be too much if any more than non-certified ones. Seems like a no-brainer for maybe a few hundred bucks?