Trouble Maker

So, what's wrong with some good OEM/Brembo blanks and really good pads? I'm guessing he will... maybe, get incremental gains from some fancy rotors. Probably high 9x% of his gains are going to be from the bigger rotors (mass, effective radius), better & bigger calipers and good pads. I'm thinking, especially at first, something that is a sure shot at working well and is going to be reliable is probably the better suggestion?

Two good articles, sources of info. http://gizmodo.com/a-skeptics-guide-to-buying-or-not-buying-a-4k-tv-1744272556 http://thewirecutter.com/leaderboard/tvs/

Yeah, just a suggestion and example of one company. I'm sure there are other similar companies, programs out there. I also hope someone with some insight can chime in on how good or bad these things are.

Because it was all roses, rainbows and unicorn fart perfume before? To the OP, you could try something like this to have someone shop around for you and maybe get something back to cover some of that deductible. http://www.npr.org/2015/10/09/447098694/why-most-people-don-t-shop-around-for-medical-procedures http://www.vitals.com/

So, there's at least 3 of these things running around central Ohio?

This? http://gizmodo.com/valves-steam-link-is-a-50-pc-streaming-console-and-its-1689301362 http://store.steampowered.com/app/353380/ Can you only do Steam games with that, or anything 'playing' on your PC?

I have no idea about the streaming part, I'm not a gamer, but this is where my mind went when people started bashing streaming here. I would think an HDMI cable should be better and way cheaper, assuming it isn't too difficult to run. I would run a USB cable to behind/under your couch for controls. http://www.monoprice.com is a great place for parts for a project like this, cables, etc. You can get a keystone plate with as many places as you need and put in whatever keystone you want; USB, HDMI, etc. Keys http://www.monoprice.com/Category?c_id=105&cp_id=10426 Plates http://www.monoprice.com/Category?c_id=109&cp_id=10425

For the last few years we had a car with normal/winter tires on it I did that dance at the Discount Tire on Swamill. You can stop in next door and get some bad fast food roast beef or go wander around the Home Depot while it get's done. They will call you when it's finished. You can do online appointments with Discount Tire too, so you could more easily than calling see if there are any around town that have available time today; and probably be able to show up and get done more quickly. I just looked it up for the Swamill store and they have slots from 12:15 to 5:45, just as an example. http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/makeAppointment.do?

First, I can almost guarantee that the first 10 hydraulic lines you make will leak, out of the next ten five of them will leak and so on. Also fuck using manual presses. Hydraulic ones are awesome but cost too much unless you are using them professionaly. Have a pro fix that one, order one or have a new one made. I'm not sure if they work on that type of line but I really like The Right Stuff when I needed some stage brake lines. Quick and at a much lower price than I expected

I think you just answered your own question.

That's what I meant; he is clearly causing undue, unnecessary stress and lost time now. I generally hate the overly litigious nature of these situations. But, fuck this guy for doing this to you. He needs taught a lesson in manners through his wallet.

Fuck that guy is what I say. Track all of this and sue his ass into the ground for time and suffering.

I'm just mad I can't find the CPL filter setting in my Instagram app.

I can't fathom why one wouldn't spend a little extra money to also get a 91 tune when going with any tuning solution that has selectable programs.

I was going to do the SB6141 and TP-Link Archer C7, based on recommendations here and The Wire Cutter. Our wireless router is old, so it could use upgraded too. This seems a lot cheaper and I'm not a speed demon, don't do host anything, game, etc. We also don't have a huge house, so speed at a far distance isn't a big issue. Just some simple streaming and net browsing. This seems like a smoking good deal, but someone earlier didn't like the idea of combined router/modems. What's everyone think about this guy for that type of use? Will we miss having wireless AC? N seems plenty fast if we have 30mbps service from our provider. Our main 'laptop' is a Chromebook 2 and we have 2 Nexus 5x on order so our devices are AC capable. I think our TV only has N, which we do most of our streaming directly to the TV. http://www.woot.com/offers/arris-motorola-cable-modem-wi-fi-router-5?ref=cnt_wp_0_2

You mean fastest for whatever tier you are on, or you only need that one if you want the 300mbs service? Just a friendly reminder to call in and bitch about your bill. I did thanks to this thread. I'm pretty passive about things like that and like to set everything up automatic and have to do as little as possible. I'm pretty furstrated we were paying $52/month, just raised to $55/month last month for 15down/1up when new customers get 30/5 for $25/month for the first year. I'm most unhappy that we didn't automatically get upgraded when the bumped up the speed on the pricing tiers. Apparently our current rental modem doesn't support 30/5 so my guess is they just left us at the lower speed. :dumb: I had been thinking there was little way we could reduce our base level of spending (things like mortgage, utilities, etc) without losing a service we want. I was feeling good about that. But in a month or so time span we will cut our phone bills in about half with going to Google Fi and making a 10 minute phone call to Wow.

Interested in your setup and how it goes, what the quote is. We got a quote from a place near us to get a line installed for a gas insert. The heater & water heater are basically right below our fire place. Probably 3-5 feet of line total. They wanted about $1k to run the line. :dumb:

Reminds me of this, only not quite as hideous. http://www.zimmermotorcars.com/index.php?page=kermit

I mean, they can't add any value or curb appeal to your home either right?

Pay off in 11 years for something that last 25 years is not worth it. #PoorPeopleLogic

The CLA AMG is a giant bucket of turds. From the 'racing' suspension to mega lag to an undersized 4WD system to massive amounts of under-steer. The car was fun to drive for 45 seconds, then my back started to hurt. I also think it would be nice to be able to accelerate in the 0.05-0.3g range. Seriously, 'normal' acceleration is not possible in that car. It's either falling on it's face or at 35#s of boost. There's no in between. I had the AWD system fail about half a dozen times in that car, granted it was in slightly 'strange' situations, but not at all in-plausible. The only thing that car has going for it is it's cool looking interior, and pretty nice looking exterior. Also, if the EVO & WRX are too small, the CLAM probably will be too. The back seat is tiny in that car. S4 is a much better car for the money. I assume the 335/535 is also, but I don't have any seat time in one of those. http://www.mercedescla.org/forum/14-mercedes-benz-cla45-amg/9883-race-start-4matic-currently-unavailable.html

I have to preface this by saying I'm speaking from some experience, but not my professional position. IMHO there is a huge difference between tuning around the test* and having a switch that goes into a different mode/tune when the test mode is detected. The first one is just tuning, the second one is a defeat device. Of course during 'real world driving' the car emits more, their definition of 'real world driving' is harder acceleration than the test mode, so of course it will emit more. It's just like complaining about not getting the EPA rated fuel economy when you drive 100mph and always accelerate at full throttle. In fact, it's the exact same thing since it's the same test. The spirit of the defeat device rule is so the car operates in the same conditions during the EPA test procedure as when the customer will use it. So an easy example is, during the coast down part of the test the car is put in neutral. You can't have a piece of logic that says 'if the car is in neutral, do this crazy thing that will reduce drag' because then the drag during real world driving, when the car is in drive, will be higher. So as long as you can go drive the car on the road using the same driving procedure as the EPA test, and get the same results, you are good. The problem with the VW debacle is that, you won't get the same results as the EPA dyno test driving the exact same way on the road. That's the defeat device. Note: By tuning around the test, I don't mean, have a very strange specific tune for the test mode, but for example, tuning for the mode and having a similar tune elsewhere, all other things (not) being equal i.e. different RPM, load, air flow, etc.

On Autotrader there are about 1300 used Volts. 69 of those are under 45kmi and under $15k. So about 5% of the used ones are in that range. Definitely seems do-able. One of the closest ones is 110 miles from here for $14.5k with only 25kmi. Cheap leases was a reflection of the up front tax rebate the finance company got right? I think part of the root of them being cheap now is lack of demand coupled with the rebate. It might have stickered at $35k, but if they are going out of the door for $32k and someone got a $7.5k rebate the car really 'cost' $25k. Assuming an asking price of $15k now that looks more like a 3 year old car that depreciated 40%. That seems high but not as crazy as a $35k car that's 3 years old that's now worst $15k.

I would never have guessed that. I think we will have to look at one of these for Carri in the future!