hpfiend

ok- thank you for learning me.

Did I ever say it was- I said reliability drastically drops after 400 rwhp and 6000 rpm.

alright- I will see if I can find the link/threads.... it came up more than once and basically the result was that they WERE NOT going to protect your block from failure but they WOULD protect your rotating assembly from being damaged by falling out onto the ground so you can polish it up and put it back in... hang on.

I got 25-30.00 out of my upper and lower (can't remember exactly) from Sim's in Delaware.

I don't know who you race with or what board you read but if they can't get better than a 2.0 60' on sticky tires they must still have their pacifier in or they drive cars without any horsepower. A 2.0 is respectable for street tires and you do seem to be a good driver from those runs, dont get me wrong, but I know you can get a 1.9 the way it sits with lower launch, less throttle early on or more clutch slipping, or even shift point modification alone... have you had it on a dyno and mapped out your ideal shift points? Tire pressure? In my 5.0 car I picked up a full second doing that and adding a shift light as my factory tach was so inaccurate that I was short shifting. I wasn't aware the cobras weighed that much but that is besides the point you ran a 12.0 in your car with your driving with a 2.0, a 1.9 will put you at least 11.9 and they say a tenth in the beginning is worth 1.5 at the end so there you have 11.85 on street tires. Heck a 1.93 will probably do it for you. I am not that versed with the IRS and what its limitations are but I bet if you changed a few of those bushings to something a little stiffer that would be all you need with your exact run and exact tires. BTW half if not more of what is posted on the internet are blatant lies anyhow- its funny all the "11/12" second cars either don't run or run 14s come track day. Good luck and keep up the good work- you can do it.

no can do on the lock washer- no head- allen head set screw in tapped hole.

Stock 5.0 (non-mexican) block reliability drastically drops off beyond 400 rwhp and 6000 rpm. Sure a guy will run 600 rwhp through it and 7000 rpm..... for a week. Girdles are marketing BS. If you plan more than that and dont want the hassle of constantly switching short blocks get a Boss, Ford R302 or Dart block. Astro performance sells a nice rebuilt 600 rwhp t5 as well as g-force for about about 1500-2000. T5 = 75 lbs. T56 = ~200 lbs. which would you rather have for a performance car without a rear mounted transaxle if you don't care about gas mileage

Hey guys/gals... My car has very agressive brake pads ( supposedly a custom blend with GM and Hawk that is between their HPS and HPS+ pads). Either way they get really dirty REALLY fast- 3-4 days and they are about black in normal driving. What rag/applicator do you guys use on these areas? I am afraid to use something reuseable like microfiber etc as I feel the semi-metallic shavings might not come out in the wash and may contaminate my other towels/wash mitt. Today I used water and a nasty terry cloth towel I had in the shop that I cut a clean corner off of and plan to throw it away. Thanks! Andrew

Just Z6'd everything but the lower rockers and bottom of quarters/rear valence... I thought it was too dirty to use Z6 there as it may scratch the paint? Do you guys use it when those areas are dirty from a week of driving? I plan on leaving those until the next full wash maybe next weekend.

Hey guys- Anyone know of a product that goes on like teflon tape or paste that can make up for loose threads but doesn't melt away with very high temperature (like headers/exhaust manifolds). Thanks! Andrew

Get the ones from NAPA- 5.00 is cheap compared to the alternative of a new injector or worse a whole set. I used the caps and o-rings numerous times when I had mine- I couldn't ever get them out without one cracking. If you are curious- I could probably find the part number.

That's one thing I don't like about HD- people look better without it.

like you would know Rob, please... lol

Thanks Andy! I hoped I wasn't the only one to have this trouble ;-)

I guess you are right and that is why I lost interest in drag racing- a 3yr old could run 11s with that trap and sticky tires if he could reach the pedals.

Is savage/remington one and the same? Link to .22 mag rifle?

I really like shooting my dad's .22 LR semi auto stainless steel Marlin but I sometimes feel limited by the caliber. We use it for varmint control and beyond about 50-70 yards the knock down power really drops off, and unless you are using higher powered "stingers" the accuracy also drops off at this range and you can no longer expect 95-99% shots in the "kill zone". But for your first gun I would probably recommend a name brand .22LR as well and probably a stainless version. Does anyone make a .22LR that can also shoot .22 magnums? An option for a .22 magnum upgrade in the same rifle would probably be closer to the .223 AR-15 you have your eyes on, once you are ready to graduate. You can't go wrong with a shotgun for self defense but they are extremely loud and the recoil isn't that pleasant for a beginner for target practice or recreational shooting- on the other hand bird hunting or clay shooting is fun though and a lot harder than it looks-

Do it on street radials... You can get that 60' down with some practice.... There IS an 11 second run in that car on the tires you have. I know lots of guys that have gotten 1.8-1.9s on street radials with a clutch- heck I have actually heard of someone getting a 1.7 before but he must be gods gift to stick shift. Sticky tires will do it but why risk breaking things and the pain of changing tires/wheels? What do you have to prove? Also your going to get thrown off any NHRA regulated track running faster than 11.99 unless you have a bar/cage so I don't see the point in a street car.

Welcome guy! Nice car choice. I had a fox coupe for my last car, it was a fun little ride- gotta love that mustang sound.

12.6 to 12.8 and I hope you have a spare set of 28 spline axles. 12.68 to be exact ;-)

dumb question but have you tried bug and tar remover?

wow- you are good.

Hey guys- Used Zaino this weekend for the first time on my car. It was a faith effort as most times I could not see it going on or coming off. I washed the whole car with Z7, claybarred with Z-18, rewashed with Z7, and then added 5 drops ZFX to 1 oz of Z-2, added it as best I could with the cotton applicator pad- ended up using about 0.5 to 0.75 oz for the whole car, then waited 30 minutes and took it off with a 100% cotton towel again not seeing much come off. The car does look good and feel smooth but I think it would be better if I knew where I was putting it or taking it off. My car is quicksilver btw which is very reflective. Do you guys use overhead lighting or something to see it? I did it in my driveway (shaded) but I could pull it in the garage next time with a spot light. I am going to z6 the car this weekend and try another coat of Z-2/ZFX or just Z-2 alone. I drive it every day about 20 miles round trip. Thanks! Andrew

Hey guys- Whats the verdict on this stuff from the pros? I have a few spots on our pearl white RSX-S that need touch-up paint and have read online this stuff is pretty good.... but when I went to buy it on amazon there were two terrible reviews on it. I searched on here and there was one thread but it wasn't really clear if the fellow liked it or not- he said definitely not for big scratches on dark cars but his description sounded very good for the #2 pencil small chip repair which is about what I have on the RSX. The vette has a few spots that aren't quite down to the plastic, primer maybe, and will try it after the RSX. There is a spot on the door where the previous owner touched up and there is a dark ring around it which makes it pretty obvious... Thanks, Andrew

How much for a star-tac?