xlr8tn

Pretty happy with how it came out. Got a decent deal on them too and got the tires I wanted. stock http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj37/0rion_album/008-5.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj37/0rion_album/009resized.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj37/0rion_album/012resized.jpg

Thanks for the posts gus. I think I might've found some at pep boys. I'll drive up there tomorrow and look at them in person. Definity Dakota MT's that are made by Cooper tire.....$133 a tire.

I'm not in any hurry. I talked to Discount out here a little while ago and they quoted $975 for the Kuhmo MT KL71's installed. That's getting closer to doable for me. What can you guys do installed on those in a 285/75/16? You can PM me the price if you don't want to post it.

Anyone know a place around columbus where I can get some inexpensive mud tires? Found a place out east ( I-70 and I-77 area) that has some good prices but if I can find something similar closer I'd rather not make the drive. I'm open to different brands too. I'd like to have Kuhmo MT KL71's but NTB out here wants $1182 installed for 4. I just don't want to spend that kinda money on tires if I can help it. The place out east I can get Buckshot mudders for $165 a tire or Federal's for $147. Size I'm looking at are 285/75/16.

You guys see the last one? Who rents abraham lincoln's hair??

they should've known she was mentally disabled when she went to a dealership for tires....

I liked it. It's Iron Man so take it for what it is. If you're looking for the years greatest storyline then it's probably not for you but if you like some guy in a suit blowing shit up and a little humor mixed in then you'll like it.

it's the only time in your life you can do shit like that and not be embarassed. I bet 50 people said something to him like "cool costume" and stuff like that. A lot of people laughed but he didn't care so neither did I. Good times and good memories to have.

Took my son tonight.....fairly decent movie I thought. This is how my son went. He was rocking it out. http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj37/0rion_album/zachironman.jpg

look at the height on the end of the pole.....looks too tall to be able to pry the hood up.

borderline nasty and completely annoying.

this was what I was thinking.....I just don't see any other way that pole could get under the hood like that without tearing it to pieces.

I owe you a beer bro. Got it back up and running today. I took that hub and sensor back off and sanded the mounting points for the dust shield. Not sure if that's what did it or if something else was funky the first time I put it on but it's working now so I'm happy. Next time I have a cook out you and your wife or gf are invited. Beer and BBQ are on me. Thanks again for the help.

well, still no luck. I spun that wheel and measured voltage today and it was below the 350mv. Not sure if that's a reluctor or sensor issue though and the voltage kinda jumped all over the place because it's tough to turn that wheel at a consistant pace. I went ahead and cleaned the reluctors on both sides and that didn't do it. I'm kinda wondering by reading #7 up there where it talks about cleaning the mounting surfaces of the sensor if that sensor grounds to the spindle or something. That paragraph you pasted is from a different style sensor because it talks about plugging the hole it goes into. Mine sits on the dust shield and reads the wheel on the back of the hub. Is it possible it grounds through that shield and rust/dirt might be keeping it from getting a good ground? I'm thinking that's an extremely long shot because the control arms would be insulated from the vehicle by bushings so it wouldn't be a good place to ground. That plug is a 2 wire plug.....I'll have to look up the schematic and see what that says. I'm just done with this thing. All I want to do is sell it, there's a lady waiting on me to get it fixed and she wants to buy it. I just don't want to throw hundreds of dollars worth of hubs and shit at it. I could always disable the pump and take the abs bulb out but that's a pretty shitty thing to do and not sure I'd feel right doing that to someone.

I'll check the voltage tomorrow....the chilton manual just said between 900 and 2k ohms and mine ohm'd out at 1.7k. Thanks for the info and I'll give this a try tomorrow.

just ohmed out the sensor and it's within spec.....the trouble shooting flow chart in chilton also says that improper air gap between the sensor and reluctor can cause this issue. I did notice when putting the new sensor on it was further away from the reluctor than the original but I have no idea how close it's supposed to be to the reluctor. I may try to bend that dust shield a little bit to tighten up that gap and give that a try.

I think my chilton manual has the specs to ohm out the sensor. I just re-checked the part number and it's the correct part number. I spun the hub and watched it to make sure it's not warped and I'm good to go there. Just not sure, short of a bad part, what else could be wrong with it. They sent me 2 parts by mistake and I sent one back....guess I should've held onto the extra one for a while. No good deed goes unpunished.

I'm fairly certain it's the speed sensor even though that's a brand new sensor. The reason I think it's the speed sensor is the abs gets much stronger if I'm turning the wheel while braking. My next move is to see how much trouble it is to get to the abs light and cut the damn wire and unplug the pump. I'm just about done with this POS.

got the abs sensor swapped out. Now when I'm on the brakes the abs pump kicks in. I pulled the passenger side and cleaned the reluctor wheel and sensor and it's still doing it. Any ideas?

I'm kinda in a pickle there...my torque wrench only goes up to 150 ft/lb and it calls for 180. I torqued it to 150 and then gave it a little extra. I've never done a hub like this before...the old ones you tightened down and then backed off a little but this one you don't do that. Not sure exactly what the principle is behind doing it the new way. 180 ft/lb's is a shit ton of torque so I would think that just as long as it's not too loose it should be fine.

I got it all back together today for the most part. Still have to buy a caliper bolt to replace the one I ruined getting out of there. Hub wasn't near as bad to get on as I thought it would be.....just pushed it up with the nut using an impact. Thanks for the help.

got my abs sensor in today.....they sent me 2. I really have no use for the second one since they're side specific so I guess I'll contact rockauto about sending it back to them.

when it comes time is there any tricks to get that hub back on the shaft? I'm guessing that whole assembly is going to want to turn while I'm pushing it back up with the bolt. Can I grease them splines to help it slide back up on there?

Some of the newer ones ( buddies 1500) you can remove just the sensor from the hub via allen bolts. This has been a complete headache full of non-sense stuff. The calipers are held on by allen headed pins.....second bolt I went to take off and the allen stripped. Spent quite a bit of time getting that damn bolt out of there. Tried welding the allen wrench into the head but it kept breaking off pieces of the head. I ended up going around the head and tacking little beads all the way around to build it up enough to grab it with a pipe wrench. Finally got it but what a pain that was. I just want to be finished so I can sell the damn thing. I found a few more things I'm gonna fix while I'm at it but I don't want to put any more money into this thing than I have too. They're not buying a new truck so they should expect to have to put some work into a 13 year old truck at some point. It needs front pads but it looks like they'll get a year or more out of these so I'm not even doing those.

the reluctor is on the hub...the sensor is part of the dust shield.