Dave1647545494

I believe his name is tim(tom) wright from witchita kansas I bought the heads on ebay

these are custom ported heads from a wrecked car(supposedly) that the guy sold on ebay cause his insurance replaced everything. I'm goin to take them up to M&M to get flowed and checked for cracks when they come in. heres the heads http://i16.ebayimg.com/02/i/00/f0/3d/0a_1.JPG http://i18.ebayimg.com/02/i/00/ef/7f/d2_1.JPG http://i8.ebayimg.com/02/i/00/ef/da/c8_1.JPG http://i14.ebayimg.com/02/i/00/ef/d2/44_1.JPG http://i12.ebayimg.com/02/i/00/ef/e9/01_1.JPG

I'm changing the gaskets becuase I'm replacing the heads with a set of ported ones . the gm and felpro kits include all the bolts. I don't have the extra cash to stud the heads right now and we aren't running (in my opinon) enough boost yet to make them worth it. if there are any maintenence type items that are easier to get to with the heads off let me know. thanks for the replies Hey chris if intense wants to sponsor a Riviera let me know.... graemlins/bubbrubb.gif

went to the local auto parts today to price out a felpro head gasket kit pn- HS9089PT1 HD SET they want 268.00 for it the same kit from gm pn- 12539091 is 68.00 do the gm gaskets suck or what? I only want to do this once. intense has head gaskets listed for 168.00 for a pair that seems high to me. I guess what I want to know is what kind of gasket do you use if you've changed it and how is it working?

my bet is the cams in wrong. the timing is retarded too much thats why it gets so hot. did you degree in the cam? its important on late model motors to degree the cam. even though it looks to be in time on the marks it could be off as much as 15 degrees. you may also need a new computer program to make the truck run right.

columbus joint and clutch can turn it while you wait most days. carquest can also do flywheels.

why don't you just slap a carb manifold on the lt1 and use it?

theres a place called augies import salvage up in massilon ohio I got a good low mile motor for a nissan up there very reasonable price. they have two huge buildings full of motors for imports up there I'd call them first.

you should be able to tap in to the tach signal at the control module you'll have to look at the repair manual and see wich wire a factory tach would use for signal

buy NX! get a wet kit! we put a nitous kit on my dakota in about 4 hours and that included making a special mount to put the bottle in the toolbox. I am lucky enough to have factory forged internals so I went two or three plugs colder and tossed a 150 shot on it. good luck

just a little tip for some of you guys. 3phase electric = 240 volts ac (farm/industrial) single phase electric = 110v or 220v ac (most homes/light comercial industrial areas) most homes have 220 service run in and split to 110 for outlets and lights and straight 220 for ranges dryers big air compressors etc. unless you have a shop in an industrial comercial area you are not going to be able to use a 3 phase motor unless you run a converter the extra money upfront for a converted lift is worth it as rotory phase converters are hard on the ole electric bill. for home use running the lift on 220v would be the most energy effecient but you'll likey have to run a new line out to your garage unless you already have 220 service for a welder or an air compressor. just thought I'd throw this out here scince some of you guys seem to think 220=3phase

right down the road from you is a place called A-transmisson masters best work in reynoldsburg by far. fair prices. you could also take it out to hardshidft in johnstown they do good work.

is it stick or auto? tranny could be slipping. check the fuel filter.

just get a standard 4 pin 30amper should be at the autoparts for 9.99 or so.

some of the oil stays in the filter, some of it sticks to the drain pan. you always drain out less than what you put in even if the stick reads full right before you change the oil. weird shit. or at leaste thats the way it always works for me.

if you wan the hydro boost you need to find a G-body that came with a disel. you need the power steering pump the mastercylinder all the hoses and the power brake unit.

go on jcwhitney.com they make a 12volt electric vac pump for cars with big cams. it works pretty good. you can also convert a g body to hydro boost from a disel engine model or go manual brakes.

I won't be home this weekend. if you have acces to an air compressor I have the valve holding tool. you will also need a valve spring compressor.you can buy one that will work on a chevy at the autoparts for about 10 bucks. if you don't have air buy a roll of the soft nylon clothesline and tie a knot in one end. then feed the rest of the rope into the cylinder to hold the valve the closed the closer piston is to TDC the less rope you have to use. hope this helps

in westerville?

I need the big ends of the rods resized and 16 new rod bolts pressed in. I need perfect work or my bottom end will go right through the oil pan. price is not an object. I'd like an ohio(local shop) but I'll go out of town if I have too. thanks

both of the gaskets are metal. one is a steel shim (metal face) the other one is copper. neither gasket is composite or layered

I'm really just wondering if one seals better than the other. or if one is stronger than the other.

to get the compression ratio I want when I put my motor back together I have to use a .020 head gasket. this gasket is availiable in copper and steel. the steel gasket is much cheaper in price. is there anything special about a copper head gasket or does it just cost more cause its copper.

you should run two filters in parallel between the tank and the pump make sure the filter is before the pump if its carbed still. anything else is a restriction. HTH

I have a 90 lincoln with a 302 motor is shot auto tranny is good you can have the whole car for 300 bucks. take the tranny scrap the rest I even have a title for it.