Dave1647545494

are you buying new pistons? that takes a special kind of press to do the wrist pins. if your pulling the motor down get new rod bolts and main studs. you can put the piston, rod, crank assembly in yourself. your going to need plastigage, ring compressor, and a cylinder hone. if you've never done it before have someone help you. rebuilding an engine over snd over again because you forgot something small sucks. good luck

they used to mount roots blowers like that on some of the old rail race cars they were direct drive on the crankshaft and had a big tube that ran back to the motor into a carb bonnet. I 've been looking at putting an m90 on my truck mounting it that way would save me the trouble of having some one machine a manifold for it.

if its got a 240v three phase motor in it you'd have to change it for a 220v single phase motor nothing a trip to the local grainger store can't fix if the price is right. keep us posted

you can get some gear back by running a smaller tire as well. if your tire on the car is say 28-29 inches in diameter and you switch to a 26 inch tire it will be like going from a 3.55 to a 3.73 you also have to make the car what you want. if its mostly street driven the drivetrain will last longer with a 3.55 than with a 4.10 because it will take less rpm to go the same speed.

2wd or 4wd they come apart different

gray smoke at startup is prolly valve seals about the best bang for the buck mod on that car is going to be spray

IF YOU HAVE SOMETHING TO SELL FEEL FREE TO POST IT HERE. REPLY TO A TOPIC ONLY IF YOU ARE INTERESTESED IN BUYING. OFF TOPIC BULLSHIT CAN BE SENT VIA PM ALL OFF TOPIC POSTS WILL BE DELETED Thanks

I have a 700r4 with a converter for 100 bucks I pulled it from a truck with a blown motor that I parted out tranny has maybe 60,000 on it

use a th350 behind a small block you can get a sweet one from B&M or TCI for about 800 bucks if your handy with tools and can follow directions B&M sells all the parts for there race trans in a kit that comes with directions for around 125 or so.

I'll put a dollar on an out of range coolant temp sensor with no service engine light.

you need a rear tranny seal and a pinon seal I'd do the tranny seal first it was the only one that appeared to be leaking when Fowler and I did your clutch. the goop on the rearend is probably from the tranny. if you have to do a pinon seal its pretty easy, but you'll have to unbolt the pinon nut wich usually requires an impact wrench. HTH

they make dry film lubricant that you can apply to the piston skirts(at home) to reduce scuff and cylinder wear. the top coatings aren't really nesecary unless your running very high compresion lots of boost or both togehter the top coatings lower the piston temp and helps control detonation

I switched from 4 drums to 4 discs on my buick depending on the condition of the car plan on replacing all the brake lines and hoses too.

ahh did you fix the vacum hoses yet? bring the truck out one weekend the carb may need adjusted again to

dipshit graemlins/slap.gif

your not suposed to cover up the breathers if your blocking them off, you have blow by because the excess crankcase pressure has nowhere to go. if you do need to do valve seals you can use rope instead of compressed air to hold the valve up you have to take the sparkplug out and feed rope into the cylinder until its full, then when you pull the spring off the valve will rest on the rope while you change the seals. hth

jc whitney graemlins/thumb.gif

eltric heaters are around but most of them that run on 12volt dc are to weak to even defrost a windsheild. I would stick with the factory type heating system they work much better

What is a hot rod, anyway? by Grant MacLaren 314.569.2846 The earliest hot rods were the result of an ingeniously simple idea: Take a vehicle that's cheap and readily available, cut it up to remove some weight, lower it and fit some fat tires. Soup up or swap out the engine. Open up the exhaust; maybe customize it and paint it a wild color. Using some ingenuity, an inexpensive vehicle coud be modified, made to perform better and look "cool." (Although the word "cool" was not yet in use.) There wasn't a prescribed set of rules. In fact, rules were meant to be broken. How come that simple formula has become so rigid and difficult today -- not to mention expensive? Hot rodding started out as kinda fun and easy going. Why can't it still be? Well, it can -- The following letter appeared in the December, 2001 Street Rodder magazine: Gow Jobs and Other Stuff Here are the answers to your questions about the origin of terms like hop-up, gow job, soup-up, etc. The origin of these terms seems to puzzle everyone but I believe I know where they came from and what they mean. In California in the '40s and early '50s hot rodders despised the term "hot rod" and never used it. They considered it I black eve. To the general public a hot rod was beat-up jalopy with no muffler, careening through a school zone with a juvenile delinquent at the wheel. To the newspapers they were a menace on par with Communism and ought to be stamped out by the police. To the serious .student of speed who had a lot of brains, sweat, and money tied up in a sophisticated performance car, this was nothing but an insult. They used the terms hop-up or gow job. So where did these come from? Well, "hop" and "gow" were names for opium which were in use as far back as the late 1800s and probably came from the Chinese. In the old days they improved the performance of race horses with drugs including opium and cocaine. This was not even illegal until the early '20s and continued surreptitiously after that. Even today the performance enhancement of human athletes and horses is nor unknown. A horse that went faster than it had any right to, was said to be 'hopped-up" or "gowed-up". From there it was a short step to apply the same names to a souped-up car. By the way, human drug users got the same names. If you read a few hard-boiled detective stories from the '30s and '40s you will soon find reference to "hopped-up punks" and "gowed-up hoodlums." As far as "soup" goes, in the '20s, nitroglycerine was called "soup" in the under-world. It was not easy to get -- safe crackers had to extract it from dynamite. It was all illegal substance and possession was evidence of criminal intent, like burglar tools. Hence the code name. "souped-up" probably referred to a race car running on exotic fuel. I know that in the '20s it was possible to buy special racing fuel from the big oil companies. An old-time motorcycle mechanic told me of taking a can of such fuel to the races where his employer had bikes competing, then pouring the leftover fuel into the tank of his hopped-up Ford, and how fast it went on the way home. In the '50s they began to use nitromethane, which is a close relative of nitroglycerine. Small world. By that time "souped-up" had acquired the general meaning it has today and hot fuel users coined new terms like "pop" and "nitro." Now on "hot rod." It is important to remember that until 1955, people used "hot" the way they use "cool" today. A hot date, a hot swing band with a hot trumpet player, a hot time. The reverse -- something inferior -- was not so hot. This was appropriate for hot rods because they actually did run hotter than normal cars, literally as well as figuratively. I have heard the story of the race promoter who abbreviated "hot roadster" to "hot rod" on his posters, but this does not ring quite true. I'm withholding judgment on this one until I see more evidence. [ 02. September 2003, 02:25 AM: Message edited by: GAS,GRASS,0R ASS ]

call me

I'm not sure what year the block is I'll have it saturday so I'll get casting numbers and stuff off of it. or maybe the guy will remember what year it is.

small block chevy with 100k look for a puff of blue smoke on startup it could be valve seals or ring wear. its prolly got 30-50k left before it needs an overhaul listne to the motor for banging or ticking. early 90's is also bad for GM paint make sure it isn't flaking off. hth

shoot me a pm I have one you can use if you don't find yours.

they make that grind for a ford I ran a 268h in my buick for a while I think the lincoln is speed density though (no maf) I havn't looked at the block I'm getting if the one in the car is a roller can I convert an older block over or should I just get a flat tappet with close to stock specs? thanks for all the help btw

yes please don't throw them away I'll be out this weekend if you want to bring them out