Tinman

Were you the one with the black lightning, the one who said the supercharger was an intake LOL j/p. If that was you, i was the one who opened your hood to see...pretty cool mettin ya

You opened someone else's hood?

Buddy of mine is looking for a running Honda D16 of any flavor preferablly non VTEC for a decent price. Will take a D15 for really cheap. Let me know what you have.

TIA

Her good side

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.php?u=302631HmIW&i=240343

Her bad side

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.php?u=302631HmIW&i=240344

1.5 liters of fury

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.php?u=302631HmIW&i=240345

Also forgot in my first post, the fuel gauge only works from 3/8ths of a tank to empty. Not a big deal as you know when your approaching an empty tank.

My sister has a pair of tickets to the big game on the 19th. In the endzone 4 rows up from the field, asking $600 for the pair.

Thanks

The ultimate winter beater, 38mpg, rear wheel drive, 5 speed.

I've had this car for about 9 months and have had no problems to speak of with it. It does have it's issues but it has been my daily driver up untill now. But I have too many cars in the driveway and one of them has to go.

The bad, the speedometer quit working about a month and a half ago at 161k, I suspect the speedo cable is bad. The parking brake doesn't work, once again cable related. A/C does not work, the carb could use a rebuild but drives fine, the valves could use an adjustment, and the rear fenders are pretty rusty.

The good, it's very solid underneath, power moonroof works, plenty of tread on the all season tires, great gas mileage, and needs nothing to keep driving.

Asking $900 or trade for late 70s early 80s japanese 500-900cc motorcycle in good running condition.

Pics will be up later today

Quit being so defensive, Tinman.

I have no need for defense with such a kick ass offense

 

Linn owns all of you.

:funny:

normally when you want to weld something they HAVE to be the same metal, it might hold but it wont work for long it wouldnt be safe for any application, ive tried welding cast aluminum back toghether on my tranny just broke openen aluminum to soft to weld unless its forged and steel is much harder so it wouldnt be a good idea, my .02 cents.

Cast aluminum is very easy to weld. All it takes is the proper equipment, preperation, and knowhow. Also cast aluminum is not soft, it is actually harder than the T2 material used most most aluminum sheet fabrication. It is brittle however, that's why it tends to crack.

13.997 @ 96 was my best time... with a 1.99 60'.

Right on Shawn! :thumbup:

 

Have you lost to my known slower opponent yet?

Have you and your colt been to Columbus yet?

Yeah damn stock 4 bangers put that out to the wheels. For that $, a built motor and a single turbo would net you 650-700whp on PUMP gas.

Stock LS7 > stock 4 banger

Therefore

Modified LS7 > modified 4 banger

650-700whp can be had from just about any motor for a certain dollar figure, 4 cylinders ARE NOT superior to anything.

Can powder coating be stripped?

I thought that sense the charged particles of paint bonded much stonger with the part, then traditional paint, which means it could not be simply wiped up with a chemical reaction.

 

I could be wrong, which I am sure I am, but it seems that sense you take the paint, that has a lot of electrons, and the metal, which is charged to help give it more electron affinity, which creates a sort of ionic bond, pretty strong bond, that the paint seemily becoming not just a layer, but more of a bond. Kinda like when they say you scratch powder coating, you are really indenting the metal alloy. But again there are some strong chemical reactions out there, so who knows.

Speaking of that do you still have the number to the place that powder coated your IC pipes? They may be of some help.

I cant do media yet, but do sandblasting. In your case for the aluminum hood, I would use chemical stripper.

I may go that route, I'd like to avoid the mess though. Plus it will be difficult to get between the bottom of the hood and the underbracing.

Probably mid-November and stripping it down to the shortblock. It's going to Phillips to be dipped and magnafluxed, the rotating assembly balanced and crank polished, and reassembled.

 

I still need to shop around for some valvetrain parts that will handle repeated 7000 RPM shifts. I'm debating now on the TH-400 w/ trans brake too. I'll have to see

If you don't want/need overdrive, then slip and slide with a powerglide! It takes so much less power to turn and weighs next to nothing compared to a TH400.

The old rule of thumb for switching to a glide was, any faster than 10.00 or lighter than 3000lbs. You'll definatly be in the neighborhood.

Less typing, more wrenching.

When do you plan on pulling the engine?

I like alabama slammers, and washington apples ain't too bad either

 

but during social drinking time, miller lite >*

Miller lite? Thats like having sex in a canoe, it's fucking close to water.