Tinman

Well damn, a new regulator is just as much or more than a new alternator. Thanks for the info James.

While we are on the subject of Johnstown, the next punk ass bitch in their fart canned four banger slow ass pile of hammered dog shit that flys by, revs at, or holds first gear at 35mph in front of my house is getting a brick through their fucking windshield

My "1-wire" GM alt has a jumper wire. The 1 wire only refers to it taking 1 external wire to hook it up.

 

Tinman, I have a 110amp 1 wire I had built a few years back if you would want to try it.

 

I appreciate the offer but I want to stick with current alt. mount and drive system. This one only puts out 60 or 70amps but that is plenty for my car, I just need it to put out the amps when the electrical system is calling for it.

Alternator in question #77-500. Which is the same alternator that came on most 90s Hondas and probably many other cars. I could just buy stock Honda alt. but would like to see if I can make this one work in three wire mode and save a couple hundred.

I would like to ditch the one wire because the three wire system does a much better job of sensing voltage requirements. As it stands now the one wire only puts out 11.5v at idle with the lights or fan on and doesn't hit 14v till around 2500rpm. That and there is a drain on the battery when the car is parked, the alternator is the only thing I can think of that is causing the drain.

I'm running a one wire alternator on the V8 rx7 and would like to switch to a three wire. From what I understand the internal voltage regulator is different between the two and this one is advertised as having a "special regulator" for 1 wire operation. But as it was delivered it had a jumper wire from the output terminal to the alternator exciter terminal. This leads me to believe that the regulator is no different than a standard one and the jumper wire is their "special regulator". So can this alternator be wired for three wire operation or do I need to swap it for something else?

Anyone know for sure where some can be picked up?

 

Thanks

I'll be there tuning the SB2

We the fine folk of Johnstown pay our police officers well to keep the riff raff out of our quiet little town

New heads? Should I be scared?

 

Good luck finding the problem, tracking that shit down is no fun

Repost maybe

 

http://www.thatvideosite.com/view/2023.html

So you tell the guy you want to put down 1500 on the street and now you talk about bringing out on a trailer

I have some aluminized here at the house. Or if you can wait untill Monday, I can roll up a piece of 20 ga. #4 brushed finish stainless.

That'll mill right out

Bump

Also forgot to mention, they are fresh from the machine shop and ready to bolt on.

These are Keith's (red 93 Cobra) heads and rockers now for sale.

 

Edelbrock Victor Jr. heads CNC ported by Total Engine Airflow

Manley super 7 ICD titanium retainers

New hydraulic roller springs good for .650" lift.

225 cc intake runner.

 

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.php?u=302631HmIW&i=275599

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.php?u=302631HmIW&i=275601

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.php?u=302631HmIW&i=275602

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.php?u=302631HmIW&i=275603

 

These heads outflow Chapman's Victor jrs across the board and especially on the exhaust side. The Chapman's go for $2500 bare, Keith is only asking $2200 for these assembled with ti retainers.

 

Comp Cams Pro Magnum 1.6 rockers for 7/16" stud #1332 with ARP polylocks

 

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.php?u=302631HmIW&i=275597

 

$200

 

Call Keith @ (614)657 3620

Motorsport upper contol arms

 

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.php?u=302631HmIW&i=275596

 

$25

 

Motorsport steel billet SFI zero balanced flywheel

 

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.php?u=302631HmIW&i=275598

 

$100

 

Pro M Aluminum 80mm meter for 42lb injectors.

 

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.php?u=302631HmIW&i=275594

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.php?u=302631HmIW&i=275595

 

$200

 

Call Keith @ (614)657-3620

+1

This man speaks the truth, although I fully expected him to suggest the mechanics best friend, "the blue tip wrench".

 

If it wasn't fractions of in inch from the shock/strut, I would have

 

Fire Fire

Antiseize next time.

 

The ghetto way of removing allen head fasteners, find a torx driver that is just a tad larger and drive it in with a hammer.

Bruce Crower, yes that Crower, has a good idea. It will be interesting to see how far it goes.

 

http://www.damninteresting.com/?p=467

I can vouch for Jim Weaver's high quality work and craftmanship. I had the pleasure of working with him at Speer for a couple years. Besides being a hell of a good guy to work with, he takes alot of pride in his work.

If the new beater is up and running by then, I'm definatly in.

 

BTW which day is test and tune and which is the driver's school?

or in nates case

 

i'll never get my car running

 

Motor runs, transmission works, the 3 protorque converters didn't.

 

Sometimes aftermarket parts aren't better...actually worse....

 

Edit:

Nate on Matt's name

Ditch the AOD already. Put a real transmission in the cougar.