Tinman

Not scared, glad you could help someone when I couldn't.

 

BTW, I may need to borrow it also. I have a project that is too big to take to my shop.

Often seen by all members of CR.

 

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.php?u=302631HmIW&i=273992

Black magic.

I'm looking for a set of 42lb injectors and a matching mass air flow for my Foxbody.

 

 

-Mike

 

Keith(red 93 Cobra) has a set of 8 low milage injectors and the matching 80mm meter for them for sale. How soon do you need them?

Don't do it Tinman! Your car will blow up upon shutdown.

 

You may be right, the plastic parts inhaled off of the R1 may cause some damage

Tempted to fire up the SB2 and drag some LSXs around 270

Why would we stuff a motor in there that makes less power

 

You know better than that

pm returned

Not again!?

Also, Tinman, can you lend clarification about the rpms that his motor was capable of or achieved? Word is (like I said) that is regularly saw 9500 and even 10500. Is that true, or do I need to edit that?

 

The engine is capable ~9000rpms. Not sure where he shifted as the car still has only the factory tach, best guess somewhere around 7500.

the implication there is that hes going to get something more monstrous?

 

<shudders with fear>

 

Returning to stock with the original 302 and GT40 heads.

I always liked that vid, good clean racing.

 

If anyone wants their SBF to run like that, Keith's heads, rocker arms, injectors, and meter are now for sale.

http://www.leftlanenews.com/2006/02/22/vw-strikes-again-un-pimp-my-ride-videos/

 

Rice gets no love from VW

I'm betting that he sports one mean mullet.

I'll sell you mine.

 

$?

http://www.ohiorotaries.com/smf/

The .001 is a factory undersized bearing used to keep everything in spec. This was and is often done in the assembly plant. If the crank was turned it would have been at least .010" under not .001"

 

ALWAYS bore and hone a block for a rebuild unless it has next to no milage like a race motor that is freshened at least once a season. A ridge forms at the top of the bore after years of use, if this ridge is not taken down to the new bore size, the top piston ring will crash into it and either break, never seal right or both.

Mix and pour into a clean block, very simple. Do one side (on a V engine) at a time and jack/block up the engine block so the deck is level while pouring and untill cured.

Starts fine, hesitates a little untill warmed up. Once warmed up it runs perfect except when the throttle is applied in one certain spot about 1/2 throttle. Before that spot is great and after that spot is also, but when trying to accelerate a little more than moderatly it goes lean, apply a little more throttle and it smooths right out. Only a minor nuisance.

pm'ed ya.

Still here. I was going to put it on Ebay when I got a chance, but I'll keep here around for a while if you want to check it out.

I'm game.

Throw out bearing

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=2085095381362301509&q=top+gear

inch