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Tinman

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Posts posted by Tinman

  1. Originally posted by Teddy KGB:

    My bathroom sink is clogged. We plunged it and snaked it and it dind't unclog. when we run the kitchen sink, water comes up into the bathroom sink. we snaked the bathtub and nothing happened. where could this clog be at? we don't have any other plumbing.

     

    thanks for any help.

    What, no toilet?

     

    Seriously though, it sounds like the kitchen sink is last in line on the way to the sewer and the clog is after the kitchen sink, so when it can't go out to the sewer it comes back up the bathroom sink. Try snaking from the kitchen sink by removing the goosneck in the drain and running the snake from there.

     

    edit: I'm not a terd herder so this is only an educated guess.

  2. Originally posted by Trouble Maker:

    Anyone ever put a V8 into an FB? I've never heard of one or seen one before and I was just wondering. Mainly since thoes are the lightest out of all of them, and handel very well.

    There are quite a few running around, everything from an 8 sec drag car to auto-crossed sbf powered fb.

     

    Check here for all three generations of v8 powered rx7s v8 rx7s

  3. Originally posted by 420GSXR1000:

    man......those photos from the team gallery still make me wonder...im NOT a mechanic NOR a welder, but i do know that the weld with proper penitration sgould be as strong if not stronger than the frame itself...

     

    why did it break @ the weld and not "tear" the frame???

     

    just asking the welders out there!!!!!!

    Lack of penetration will cause that. It's a mistake novice welders make alot on aluminum, you can have a pretty bead without the proper penetration. There is a big difference between those who can weld and welders.
  4. First here's the thread, clicky

     

    http://www.team140.com/wtfcrx/crxofdeath002.jpghttp://www.team140.com/wtfcrx/crxofdeath001.jpghttp://www.team140.com/wtfcrx/crxofdeath011.jpghttp://www.team140.com/wtfcrx/crxofdeath010.jpghttp://www.team140.com/wtfcrx/crxofdeath007.jpghttp://www.team140.com/wtfcrx/crxofdeath006.jpghttp://www.team140.com/wtfcrx/crxofdeath005.jpghttp://www.team140.com/wtfcrx/crxofdeath003.jpg

  5. Originally posted by The Stig:

    One of the potential problems of the NASCAR parts catalog, you never realy know what you're buying, more specificaly, from what team. Some know what they're doing, and some just dont. ;)

    Sad part is the new bellhousing is right out of the box, never been on a car and never should end up on one.
  6. Originally posted by rl:

    Holy shit thats a lot of runout, I wont run more than .0070. Can you machine some offset dowels or do you not want to mess with it?

     

    EDIT: are you talking about centerline runout or squarness to the block?

    Centerline runout, turns out I forgot I already had offset dowels in the block. But even with .021" offset dowels indexed in the right direction, it won't be with in spec. On a brighter note, Mike's buddy had some mag filler rod, the old bellhousing will be on in a matter of minutes:)
  7. Okay, now I'm more than serious. The new bellhousing arrived today and it's slightly more useful than a pile of donkey shit, .073" out of alignment. Not even remotle excusable. I'll be shipping it back soon and need to get the old one repaired asap. So if anyone can locate some filler tonight, preferably er-az92a, I'll give you the first ride and the $50.
  8. Cool, thanks man. I ordered a new bellhousing Sunday, should be here tomorrow, but I would still like to fix the cracked one. It only weighs 8 lbs., so it would be nice to put back in at a later date.

     

    I always back shield when ever possible, have a Y off of the regulator just for that reason.

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