desperado

I got to say that this is a bad idea. Reason is that once he enters into a purchase contract with the current owner, he maybe held legally responsible for the expense of the tank removal. And since the tanks have not floated up, there is SOMETHING in them. If the removal procedure results in a spill, and remember that you will have to have an official on site for the removal, so ther is NO covering it up, he would possibly be held finacially responsible for the cleanup cost, and any sort of cleanup would take place at the time of the spill and would be done by a licensed (very expensive) contractor for the EPA. Please remember that at no time that the EPA is involved is anything cheap. Some idea, Pilot Truckstop 10 yrs ago left the cap off their tank during a flood. They floated about 1000 gallons of diesel fuel out and into a corn field. By the time they were done it cost them 1.5 million.

I guess as a show piece, it's neat. Hell the top guys that do the db drags (sound level comp's) can't drive the vehicles they compete with either. One of them I saw has a 10 horse lawnmoter engine running a hydraulic pump to make a full size crewcab pickup move around. The guys comment was that the motor took up space he needed for amps and batteries. There are guys out there that are running blown alcohol hemi's, in a 2100 pound car with a total rear tire width equalling better than 80% of the width of the vehicle. It gets less than 10 MPG, remembering that alcohol is 5 buck a gallon, has a blower throught the hood. And other than driving on sunny, dry, warm days, it sits in a tempature controlled garage most likely. So what's the real difference? Neither is all that useful. It's just what we choose to build. That's the ONLY thing that the ricers have on any of this.... if nothing else at least their stickered, big winged, fart can carrying shit boxes will go down the road in a rain storm and not run off in the ditch at the hit of the throttle. (they do, but it's the fault of the ass hat driver, not the overpoweredness of the car)

Jock Itch

The EPA since it lost a bunch of funding during the Reagan administration, and funds were never allocated by Clinton or the Bush'es found out that they had to provide for themselves. It's no different than OSHA, anyone here over the age of 30 knows what has gone on with them in the last 10 to 15 yrs. They have taken to walking on a construction site and telling guys that have been doing the same shit the same way for 30 plus years without a problem that their practices are unsafe and fining them for it. EPA is doing the same thing. They create regulations and then enforce them. Now I will say that in this specific case, it's a needed thing. Before regulation, tanks would just be abandoned, only to begin leaking gasoline into the ground and eventually the water table. And if they did get anything done with them, they were pumped, if the guy didn't have a long enough hose or what ever he would just leave fuel in the tank and them a track hoe would punch into the tank, break out the bottom and fill it with dirt. This of course ALWAYS contaminated the ground. If this wasn't done, and the tank was just pumped and abandoned, it would over time, depending on the amount of ground water in the area, would begin to rise out of the ground because it was empty tanks will float. They would actually come out of the ground like this. So they watch all this pretty closely now. So you can about bet that there is something in those tanks, because after 30 years of being empty, they would no be underground tanks any more, they would be coming out of the ground most likely. I am not trying to sway you from buying this property, I am just trying to let you know that if there is a problem with it in the eyes of the EPA, or Fire Marshal division of Industrial Compliance or BUSTR that you could end up in the poor house by the time you got it all fixed. And the thing is that once the EPA sinks it's teeth in, it's like a pitbull. They will bring in a cleanup crew, do the clean up and leave you with the bill. And I know from a friends personal experience, both doign cleanup and having a problem and being sited, the EPA doen't know what compassion or llienancy is. So make sure that ALL the proper documentation is in order and you have the correct paperwork in hand before moving on that.

The tanks will need removed, and they need to be inspected by the State Fire Marshal or a local acredited fire personal. The state has a specific department for the regulating of underground tanks. http://www.com.state.oh.us/sfm/bust/ The specific regulations for tank status modification https://www.com.state.oh.us/sfm/bustr/PDFs/rules/1301-7-9-12.pdf You need to also remember that teh Ohio EPA will want to come out and do a soil sample and possibly pull several core samples before they will sign off on the land changing hands. The oil pit that use to be a NTR, from what I understand cost Rader close to 1 million dollars to clean up before the NHRA could buy the properity.

has this been sold?

I gotta say that anyone here that buys that car because of this post is about the biggest nutswinger of them all.

Damn, yall is a bunch of NO hammer swingin fucks. Ben, now that I am done laughin at your silly ass for tearing up your shit. I will tell you how to secure it. I am going to assume that you fucked up both the door and the jam. Go down to Lowes or something similar and get a brass door wrap that wraps around where the lock is. Be sure to measure the thickness of the door and the lock backset, it's either 2 3/8's or 2 3/4's that is VERY important. That will fix the door it's self unless you split the fucker down the middle. I have repaired more kickins when I was a locksmith than I care to count like this. Now for the door jam. I am going to assume that since you kicked in the door that it swings in and not out. Now, you not being a big dude, unless you sat down and kicked with both feet you couldn't have done a ton of damage, it may look like hell but it's not that bad. I am also going to assume that the door did NOT have a deadbolt. Cuz you would not have been able to kick it in without bolwing it off the hinges, at least if it was put in right. So, if it's not already laying loose remove the strike plate (little latch plate that the lock pin goes into on the door jamb. I am back to the asumption that the actual door jamb is sort of fucked up but you didn't get into the framing around the door at all. the jam is a 1/2 inch pine board in most cases. If you really want to swap it out go get a new board, if not we can fix it but it will look rough until you get someone to really repair it. While you are at Lowes, get a box of 3 inch drywall screws. You need to also look for a new heavy strike plate or you can make one out of HEAVY gauge sheet metal. It will go behind the old strike plate that you are going to beat back straight. You are looking for one/making one that does NOT hve the curve in it. If you make one, just cut it so that there is no curve. Once you have all this stuff, hopefully you still have Anthonys dremel tool. It's the easiest thing to use to route out the extra depth needed for the backer plate. Route enough additional wood out so the the backer plate and the strike plate will sit flush in the door jamb. Then using the 3 inch screws, mount them both into the door jamb. Now you will also want to remove the hinge screws one at a time and replace them with the 3 inch drywall screws. Reason is that you weaken the entire door jamb when you kick in the door. So you don't want it to start sagging in a month or two. Do both the door side and the door jam side on all the hinges. BTW, once you do this, you will not be able to kick the door in anymore. So you better pickup a key rock or something to put a key in for the next time. And I may be an irritating fuck, but I am also a handy one. If you just totally can't figure this out, call me ( 989-2459) and I will try to get over there and help you get it taken care of. Post pics of the door and the jamb so I know what I need to bring to fix this.

A federal automatic weapon permit is a beautiful thing.

I assume she's from Grovetucky!

Yeah Baby!!!!! You might want to look into the special window tint that can be cut with those. You can do some things with tint to produce some badass effects. There is also a "etched glass" vinyl that looks pretty tits. I worked in a shop where we were playing with some of that doing truck back windows. Big multicolor outlines then applying 60% tint to the entire window, cutting other darker tints and applying them over to 60% for different effects. Played with lightbox projects to where you used the negative on plexiglass with black vinyl, then different tints. You may already know about all that, and maybe not. But these other guys on here that only know about tribal and ricer vinyl most likely don't. If you want some other ideals or need pointers on doing stuff other than just basic lettering and graphics PM me.

Is the injector getting the pulse? I am not sure if you can look at it with a test light to see it the voltage pulse is getting there. I know that a digital multimeter would not be able to measure it unless you had one with a peak hold or a delta fuction, the pulse time is to short for most meters to react and register the actual voltage. If nothing else I have an o-scope that I can look at that with. Let me know.

This car is completely BONE STOCK, with the only exception being a high flow airlid (I still have the air lid). It still has factory exhaust, cats, etc., which have never been tampered with. Well, not exactly.

At least I have th good sence to not try to hotrod a Volvo

That's cool man, its' not a real hard thing to do, and you should be able to get it done in a weekend, and in reality in a day if you don't break any studs off. ButI TOTALLY understand about haveing too many other things going on.

Damn man, that's a riot. I actually had a 480 3 phase motor control cabnet go up in front of me with the door open. The company I was doing work for manufacutred composite materials, including carbon fiber cloth. Strainge thing is that carbon fiber will conduct, and the shit gets EVERYEHERE. I closed the door and forgot something soI pulled it open real quick again. Some fibers got across the fuses in the panel and arced. It ended up blowing 3 breakers including a 600 amp disconnect on the main buss that ran through the top of the plant. The light was so bright that they said I cast a shadow 100 foot away on a wall. Of course, being the true badass I am, snearing at danger, and laughing in the face of death, it spooked the hell out of me. But when they got everything reset, it all still worked. They started callin me sparkie after that, not sure why. Joe, as far as that needing to be inspected, it really depends on where you live. I did my mothers after she lost her meter can (box the meter goes in). AEP did come out and cut teh wire off the house for me so it was dead, but I replaced everything above the breaker box all the way to the weather head and then AEP reconnected it for me, that was in Reynoldsburg though. Different municipalities have different requirements. I wasn't able to find any pushomatic breakers today, but I will keep an eye out. As far as the buzzing breaker. I am going to assume that the breaker is about to go bad. The way that breakers work is that the current flows through a special spring that keeps the breaker from popping. When there is too muvh current the spring heats up and looses it's tension, it then releases the contacts and it opens. That spring is somewhat like a lightbulb filiment. If you have ever heard a lightbulb buzzing just before it burns out, that is the say thing that you are hearing in that breaker. Now from what you were saying about one breaker feeding outlets on all three floors, I would say that the house was wired in the 70's. Code has changed a good bit. But that is not to alarm you. If it was goingto burn down because of the wiring, chances are it already would have. If you deside to rewire, let me know. It's not a hard thing to do, pulling the new wire into place is the biggest pain and what takes a up the most time. But that part I am sure that you can handle, then I could come in behind you and look it over and hook it all up, if you would deside to go that route.

Damn Jon, you ok man? Better take a breather. Brandon, I seriously do hope that the only problem you are having is the timing chain on your car. BTW, thanks for coming up off the mandrel bend, it helped tons. BTW, I desided to put a hitch on the S-10, so when you deside to see what your can being fast is like we will hook it up behind the truck and I will tow you around 270. I see that Eli is back. what was it that TJ said, "I hate this site, now please ban me so that I can resist the urge to login and post." Seems that he read that pretty well. No matter, glad your back. Now go piss Chris off again so we can all get a laugh out of it and we can all see how far you can push him before he bans you again.

Are you going to be paying for the panel? If so I might be willing to do that, no beer though. Get me a breaker count (number of breakers in the panel) and what size they are, and I will get you a price on the hardware. Pls take a pic of the panel so I can see how it is hung in/on the wall.

FIXED

actually the only one was Wirthmans that was downtown, but they are gone now. Circleville is your best bet. They know what they have though and can work with you over the phone to see if they have what you need. That will save you the trip down. Short of that there is a place on the far east end of Newark that deals in truck parts but I can't even remember what the name of that place is.

If the truck is not got a body lift on it, it's not too bad. Body lifts make it a total pain in the ass. The only real issue thet you will need to be aware of is the manifold studs, if original they will want to break off, since the head is coming off anyway, that's not a big deal. They can be drilled and retapped easily. Just use the manifold as a guide for the drill. If oyu need help with that part of it, bring it out and I can help you with that. It will take about 20 minutes per broken stud. Only other this is to replace the head bolts. If it lost a head gasket, chances are good that they might have stretched out a bit too much. Other than that, it's straight forward, loosen all the rockers, pull all the pushrods, remove the intake, remove the from accesories that are bolted to the head, take the exhaust manifold off and pull the head. Make sure to clean the deck up real good. inspect the deck and the head for signs of warpage and attempt to determine what caused the gasket to blow to begin with. Reassemble the head on the motor with a new gasket AND DO NOT USE ANY SORT OF GASKET SEALER, INSTALL THE HEAD GASKET DRY!! Of course drill and tap any broken studs before reassembly, then put it together the way it came apart.

I will talk to a couple guys I know and see if they have a 60 AMP pushomatic. It sounds like you might also have a loose netural. When the lights get dim do other lights get brighter? That is a tell tail sign of it a loose netural. As far as the buzzing breaker, same deal, I will talk to a electrican friend, and look at work. We pulled several pushomatic panels, so I may have a 20 amp breaker. If not and you can't find one through the normal channels, there are companies that are called breaker brokers. They would have it but it would be pricy. If you have any questions let me know. I will do what i can to help

Your welcome..... Edited above.

Well. I wouldn't say that. You could build a box for the carb. Similar to the boxes some guys use for a blow through setup. Then connect it to a snorkel. Have the crank case vents connect to it and seel the oil dipstick with duct tape. That should about keep water out of the engine. As far as the electircal, it sounds like you already have that figured out. Lots of silicone dielectric grease

Hmmm, Also has a CT-70- first bike with a shift, had minibike before that. Was given to me by my uncle not running, set the point gap and fixed the throttle cable. Had lots of fun with it. I was 11 at the time. Harley Davidson 250 SX- Two stroke, ass loads of power, would never go into first gear, started off insecond most of the time. When I fixed that I found out I has a wheelie machine. Paid $125 for it. They are worth way more now. RM125 suzuki- what can I say, suzuki dirt bike Honda 750 Four 1971 model I think- this was another freebie, got it with a locked up motor from sitting. First four cylinder motor I even pulled apart, I cleaned up everything and just put it back together, ran great. I wasn't old enough to street ride so I just goofed around with it in a corn field. Yamaha RD350- first tagged street bike, put several 750's and a 1100 to shame with this doing traffic light to light runs. Bought it for $50 bucks not running, fixed it and figured it would be a fun toy. I was wrong, had a monster power band, would sound like it was dying, right up to the power band and then go like a bat out of hell, standing on the back wheel most of the time. It was quirky, tempermental and had mood swings like a pregnant woman, but it was damn quick. Bike was a two cylinder two stroke. I found out later that it was the quickest bike produced for a couple years until Kaw brought out the 550 H-1 three cylinder two stroke bikes that took the quick title away. It was not a top speed bike, it would only run 110 or so, and was unstable at that speed but it would carry the front wheel until 90 and would stand up in all gears except 6th with a hit of the throttle. VW trike (is that a bike or a car?)- bad ass, nuff said. Honda CR600R- wheelie machine. Got on a trade, bored and rebuilt 20 hours before I got it. Oddly enough I was the only one of three owners that could reliabily kick start the beast. (280 lbs helped alot) sold to a guy that would ride wheelies for HOURS on the bike, he was better suited for it than I was. Bike threw me one to many times. Suzuki GS650 83 - fixed and sold, never road Yamaha 500 - fixed and sold, never road Honda Goldwing 82 or so- gave away to get it out of my driveway