desperado

Geee, I been here fer what, 2 years. Been the same screen name the whole time, other than a couple of short jaunts with asshole names.

Huh???? You have some of the theory, more flow is better. Problem is that it will ALWAYS flow more as the valve opens more until the port becomes the restriction. If valve events were instant, then your statement would work, problem is that valve events occur over time.and the higher the lift is, the longer the duration is going to be, reason is that it takes time for the valve to open, and to close again, during this time the motor is turning and the the mate to that valves events are occurring. Here is why this is important. A stock motor, due the internals, will only spin a finite RPM, if it goes above that RPM shit breaks, and you have an oil pan failure (failure to contain the broken parts). So you need to choose a cam that the motor can make power with in the RPM range it is capiable of turning. A stock cam, say 390 lift and 210 degrees of crank rotation is going to have a power band from idle to 5000 RPM A hot street cam, say 485 lift and 292 degrees of crank rotation is going to have a power band of 2500 to 6500 RPM A big bracket racing cam, wil 625 lift and 310 degrees of crank rotation is going to make power at 3500 to 7500 RPM And a balls out NASCAR/ProStock grind, with 700 plus lift and 320 plus degrees of duration is going to make power at 5000 to 9000 plus RPM Now, even with a roller cam, a 700 lift cam is never going to get down to 290 on the duration. Not to mention the monster overlap that a cam with 700 lift is going to have. Overlap kills manifold vacuum, which in turn will make the car not idle much below 2000 RPM with that size a cam. So simply going with the biggest falking cam in the book is not a route to performance. I figure I better touch on a couple of other things too, while I am at it. When you get into monster ass lifts, roller cams are the only route. Roller cams require a number of other things, first is special valve springs. A set of springs that will take a NASCAR cam grind, will set you back about $800. Now Not any off the shelf rockers will work either. You are stairing $350 more in the face. Not to mention push rods, the clearancing that will need to be done to the heads. There's a good possibility that the pistons will hit the valves, stock valves gotta go too, the closed spring pressure will rip the special steel aftermarket titanium retainers right off the stems of the stock stuff. So we are replacing the pistons with a new $800 set of custom billet slugs. All this over a cam swap. Now we are done, our pockets are empty, but the motor is built, it cost damn near what a new Z06 costs but it's there. What do we have? A motor that will not idle below 2500 RPM, that runs the car down the road at 40 in second gear, except it will not make any power down there so it stalls. It needs to be run up to 4500 before the clutch is let out, which sends the tires up in smoke at every traffic light and provides you with enough tickets to wall paper a cathedrial. Shift point is somewhere in the 7500 RPM range, and every time it rains the car spins for 1/4 mile at gear change. Of course the fucker drins fuel like it was water, going through 20 gallons on the way to work and back. So what do we have, it damn sure ain't no street motor. BTW, the heads would stop increasing in flow long before you got to 700 lift, but you still see my point.

OK, now that we have that wonderful insite from Mr. Grant, we can all just sell our tools with the knowledge that simply changing the oil will cure all automotive ailments. While there are a number of little bottles that promise to get your engine neat as a pin by simply pouring them into the oil and running the motor for 15 minutes or so and then draining the oil, all the sins of the world will be washed away. The reality is that most will do about the same thing, because contrary to all the BS on the label, the can contains simple kerosene and some other bullshit. The kerosene is the key solvent though. about a pint is all that you will need, put it in, run the motor for a bit then drain it. Refill the motor with cheap oil and a new filter and run it for a while longer, bring it up to temp. Then drain it again, change the filter and put the oil of your choise in the motor. Be aware, do NOT do this with a high mileage motor. The kerosene will wash away any parifin that has collected and is sealing up otherwise bad motor seals. I have done this, and made motors, especially ones that had been run with Quaker State oil (known for creating shit loads of sludge) and made them leak like a sieve. .

OK, the thing you want to look for with spray is more duration in the exhaust so it can clear the cylinder of the additional gasses produced while on spray and as little overlap as possible. Reason for the little overlap is that when both valves are open you are loosing spray right out the exhaust. Now here's the thing, the duration and overlap are pretty much what makes a cam lopey. So a nitrous cam, is typically not going to have a real lopey idle unless it is for a combinaition that is not stock (catbacks and CAI's are not motor mod's, sorry) But like what nathan said, if you are wanting the motor to lope, unhook a vacuum line or two and the motor will lope. It will also run like shit, but it will lope. If you are wanting it to run good, your best bet is going to be call the cam manufacture, tell em what you have as far as the motor, and the mods that you will be doing in the NEAR future. And let them tell you what cams to consider. Ultimately, you need to get the cam that the motor wants, not what the you think it needs or your that street racing hero with the $15000 motor is running, it will hardly never work for your combination.

First off, thanks for the vote of confidence there in our members Joe. As far as the cam, first off remember that you are on a computer motor, at least with the cars that you have in your sig. While the computer can be tuned to the cam, just dropping it in may or may not work out so well. The other thing that you will want to be aware of is the max lift that the valve springs can take without binding. Binding, if you don't know is went the coils of teh spring are compressed until they are all touching each other, if this happens, something else in the valvetrain will take up the additional lift by failing, typically the push rods will bend first, but there is a good possibility that the rocker arms will either break or pull the studs out of the head if they are pressed in studs, if they happen to be screw in studs, they may break. Your specific cam profiles that you are looking at, the durations look pretty good, again it depends on the motor they are sitting. The .550 and better lift, while I am not well versed in the newer small blocks (LT and LS stuff) thouse lifts with stock springs on the older small blocks would have caused immediate failure due to coil bind. Back to the duration thing for a minute. As you increase the duration and overlap (time that both valves are open) you are decreasing the amount of manifold vacuum. This can have adverse affects on a computer controleed motor. You need to remember that the ECU is programmed at the factory with parameters that are specific to the motor they put in the car. If those parameters change to outside what the computer can compensate for the motor will not run correctly.

Listening to the radio this morning, some woman stopped her car and pushed her todler out of the car then drove away. She drove 100 miles before getting into an accident and being assested by police. Went the folks that found the child beside the road ask the child what he was doing there he said that he made his mommy mad and she pushed him out of the car. It was stated in the story that the child received minor inguries, most likely from falling down as he was trying to climb back into the car as his mother drove off. WHAT IN THE FUCK IS WRONG WITH PEOPLE?????? That bitch has so fucking little love in her heart that she would abandon her child along side a freeway. I can't even fathom, as hateful an individil as I ever was, leaving a child, let alone my own along side a freeway. Just how broken does a human being need to be to do shit like this? How much hate who you have to have in your heart to abandon your own child? Just thinking about this makes me hurt. I know that people have a discusting ability for hateful deeds. But shit like this, is so discusting to me that I can't even express it in words. That child is obviously old enough to understand what happened to him and gets to live with the knowledge that becasue he made his mommy mad she dumped him along side the road. And that will take a long time for him to get past, and get an understanding of what a piece of shit his mother is. Until that time he gets to believe that it's HIS fault that his mommy dumped him. As far as I am concerned, that woman needs to be rendered unable to reproduce, if not hung for this.

That was the gayest thing I have ever seen.

No, it reality it IS a enema / douchebag, the picture is from their catalog, I just added the Vaginal Sand thing to it. After all, with all the sandy vaginas around here, someone needed to show the masses how to take care of em. Ot's really a public service thing, if you look at it like that.

Sure Shawn, who's to poor bastard that I get to stuff the garden hose up their ass and turn on the water?

It's an enema/douchebag. It works equally as well on ALL body cavity's.

This man speaks the truth! Better throw firemen in that mix as well.

As far as what Vince said, you missed one other small point. Most everyone that goes spouting FTP is spouting it after a run in with law enforcement and they were breaking the law. That's the part that I get the most confused with, if you are breaking the law, and to police catch you breaking the law, they enforce the law, and you suffer the consiquences. What the hell is so hard about that? (Directed to those that bitch) And don't tell me that they are just picking on you, the law applies to you and me and everybody the fuck else equally. What is it that makes you special that you should be singled out and given special privilage to break the law? Cuz you got mad skills and you don't fall off your bike? Cuz you are a safe speeder? Maybe becasue the law is stupid. Personally I feel that it should be open season on dumbfucks that who have no more sense than to say shit like that. But the law on kicking the hell out of people is applied equally, how about they repeal that law? Better be glad they don't, cuz it will ultimately be one of those cops that single you out and pick on you that will be pullin some guy off you that feels the same way I do about stupid asses that have no respect for anything.

Yes, it is true that the second amentment protects all of us from the government telling us what we can and can't say. It however does NOT protect you from the consiquences (sp?) of saying the wrong thing at the wrong time. Nor does it protect you from laws pertaining to threatning, menacing, or combative langauge used towards law enforcement officals. I really shouldn't even bother mentioning this and let the ones dumb enough to get mouthy with an officer to find out on their own. But telling a cop FU or some other colorful statement can now earn you a ticket or a ride in a police car and a free meal or two. Not to mention some really awful clothes (orange jumpsuit) and numbers across your chest in a typically less than fashionable photo. And remember that the second amendment is about the federal government making laws limiting freedom of speech, it says nothing about freedom to be an asshole.

Seems ya'll need one of these. http://www.foornet.net/images/douchebag.jpg

No FDP- Fuck Danica Patrick.. you seen that? She's damn hot, I'd ride that like a 20 dollar whore. Of course she'd never have antthing to do with any of us. But who cares.

pics pls

Mmmmm, Danica Patrick, Mmmmmmm, I don't know about all this FTP bullshit, but I'd FDP for sure.

Hmm, wild huh??? Pls post pics of her, if she's wild and hot I will see about getting you a baby half brother.

Word. A buddy once told me "From the cradle to the Hurse, nothings so bad as it can't get worse." Truth is that we have our health and someone that cares for us, a parent, a wife/GF or someone. Hell if nothing else we have each other here on the board. It could be worse by far.

southern cross - CSN&Y

you have some idea of what you want for it. PM me

Why are you not wanting a caprice motor. THere are 2 LT-1 looking engines, the LT-1 and the L-99 which is a 265 CI motor. The difference in the two is that the NON vette motors had cast heads. And there was some difference cam profile and computer, offering a bit more torque and a bit less HP on the top end ratings. The Aliuminium headed LT-1's are vette and some F-body cars, but they are rare, and pricy. Hell for the price difference you could about buy new alu heads, and the cam. Everything else is the same, now I will say that you absoluting need to know the casting numbers for the motors. setting side by side the LT-1 and the L-99 look identical, other than the casting numbers so you have to know what's what. I am not going to sit here and tell you that head material has nothing to do with the amount of power a head makes, you knew that already. But I will tell you that the cast heads will port out farther, which has alot to do with making power. And the rest of it is valve size, and cam profile. As long as the chamber size is similar, you may gain some over the iron head by quicker removal of head and it being less prone to detonation, but the minute that you do the needed port work to the heads, that power advantage goes away, and there are other ways to deal with detonation like higher octane fuel.

Chris, I have a hard time believing that you wouldn't cry if your dog died. And that you would laugh at someone that did. You as an asshole, I don't doubt that, but that's just going to far!

Hmmm, I ain't a Ford guy so I will just give you what I know. First, check connections at the ingition module and coil. Second, and I ain't sure if a Ford will do this or not but many cars do. Pull the coil wire, have someone look for spark while you turn on and off the ignition, you should see something. Third, if first two are ok, check the resistance of the pickup, not knowing Fords I hve no clue what it should be, but I know it should have something under 5000 ohms. If there is no resistance, it's open and if it's 0 ohms it's shorted. If all that checks out, verify that the rotor is turning by pulling off the distributor cap and having someone crank the motor. It should be turning of course. While I have never seen a bad coil, it can be checked with an ohm meter as well. THe primary side should be a very low reading, almost a short, the secondary should be much higher, be should NOT show open. I hope this helps.

<div style="font-family:verdana;font-size:10px;width:150px;BORDER: 1px solid;PADDING: 5px;BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffc933; TEXT-ALIGN: left"><div align="center" style="margin-bottom:5px; font-size:12px;" nowrap>I am 85% Asshole/Bitch. http://www.fuali.com/testimage.aspx?img=069de98b-1c5e-4df8-ab8e-908c4f54cf25.gif</div>I am one of those people that love to hear the sound of their voice. That and my lousy attitude make for a mixture as toxic next-day-mexican-dinner-ass-drip.<div align="center" style="margin-top:5px;" nowrap><a style="font-size:10px;" target="_blank" href="http://www.fuali.com/test.aspx?id=dd4c0ca6-a554-4cbe-b0e7-bc17462a412e">Take the Asshole/Bitch Test @ FualiDotCom</a></div></div>